Boar tusks processing
To extract the boar's tusks, saw off a part of the animal's muzzle between the eyes and the tusks, as shown in Figure 69. This piece of the muzzle should be at least three and a half times longer than the visible part of the lower canines. The cut off part is placed in a boiler with cold water so that it completely disappears under water. The water is brought to a boil and cooked over low heat for 2-3 hours. After boiling, the jaws with the fangs are removed from the kettle and, without allowing them to cool, the fangs are removed. In order not to get burned, use gloves or rags. The upper canines are usually easily removed, but to remove the lower ones, they need to be pulled forward by 3-5 cm, and then carefully open the jaw bones from the back side so that the canines come out freely. Then the fangs are placed in a kettle of hot oily water until they cool. They cannot be left out of water and washed with cold water. The canine, cooling in oily water, is saturated with fat and acquires a protective layer. After cooling, the nerves are removed from the canines and the inner surface is wiped with cotton wool, dried in a damp and warm place to avoid cracking.
Rice. 69. Extraction of wild boar tusks
After drying, the canines are degreased with gasoline. It is recommended to fill the inner part of the canines with BF glue (any) and, holding it inside for 5–10 s, pour it out, repeating this two or three times at intervals of 30 minutes. Before this, the glue is heated in a bowl with warm water so that it can be poured out more easily. Instead of BF glue, the inside of the canines can be filled with epoxy resin of the following composition: 80 parts of filler and 20 parts of hardener. Instead of glue, the canine cavities can be filled with cotton wool dipped in epoxy resin with tweezers, after 12 hours the glue hardens, giving them greater strength.
To prevent the fangs from deteriorating from changes in moisture, they can be covered with a thin layer of colorless synthetic varnish. You cannot whiten your fangs.
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From the book Hunting animals and trophies the author Fandeev Alexey AlexandrovichMounting boar tusks For mounting tusks, a wide variety of medallions are selected. In the center of the medallion, the upper canines are symmetrically placed, and the lower canines are placed on the left and right (Fig. 70). To attach the fangs to the medallion, use special decorative frames from various
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ALEX55555 05-03-2010 20:11
friends, hunters, the jaw of a cleaver lies from last year, teach how to boil fangs ...
Petr ... sh 05-03-2010 20:55
I am not an expert on boars at all, more on tusks.
I know quite well about Mishaka tusks. I will tell you that when I took the maral trophy from the master, I saw boar tusks on the restoration. To the question, what are they cracking? Yes. And very much. It seems that everything is correct, everything is done according to science and everything that is dear and the most important, but cracks. And they burst, and with a screw and, for everyone.
And therefore. Better to contact the master. Or it is stupid to fill in with epoxy and insert into place.
I repeat, I am zero in this. And my opinion is stupid. (I do it myself, and I cover the cracks with auto-sealant)
SHULGA 07-03-2010 13:09
I do this: I immerse it in water (with a large supply of water) and, on low heat, I boil it for several hours. After that, having cooled in a natural way, I take out the fangs. There are moments when the fangs in the boiled jaw dangle freely, but they cannot be removed even with effort, then the jaw is neatly destroyed by improvised means (it is convenient to "pinch off" a piece with pliers). You need to be extremely careful with the edges of the fangs (those in the jaw) - very delicate and fragile.
Next, I process the extracted canines with a degreasing agent (you can use good gasoline for lighters), dry them well NATURALLY. Ready.
Storage: I fill in STEP-BY-STEP with zpoxy (maximum possible liquid consistency), let it freeze well. I process the outer side very thinly with the most common superglue (it fills microcracks well and does not shine). I place it on a medallion - I attach it by means of thin straps-rings made of genuine leather. Safety - ETERNAL, if once every 3-5 years the outer cover is again thinly covered with superglue. Appearance - NATURAL.
ALEX55555 09-03-2010 10:19
Thank you friends ... boiled it out, pulled it out, now according to the recommendations and I think they will go to the medallion ...
Bylbash 20-04-2010 19:39
I cook for no more than 30 minutes, so that they do not become fragile.
For 4 years now they have been hanging in the apartment and do not crack.
at the cottage, too, everything is excellent, but there is more humidity
Sergey outfitter 24-04-2010 03:48
Yes, rather than boil down in 40 minutes, what could be pulled out?
Tracker 10-08-2010 20:27
BEAUTIFUL TROPHIES! Where did you get it?
Bylbash 12-08-2010 18:09
Yes, rather than boil down in 40 minutes, what could be pulled out?
Trust me!
I put it in water and after 20 minutes I try to push it in and loosen it a little
Sometimes they even enter this way
in 20 minutes I try again and in 90% of cases everything is ok!
Here he gave his fangs to Nemansky for assessment, he said that the medal, although weak, is there
boiled in 15-20 minutes
Sergey outfitter 16-08-2010 09:17
All of them are the largest found exactly in the taiga of the Far East and mainly around Khabarovsk! Then no one feeds them, so they themselves plow with tusks in order to get the tops of the roots! And clicks, as you know, grow from this!
Neman 16-08-2010 11:08
quote: Originally posted by Bylbash:
I stir and pull out with rotational movements.
You didn't say you fill it with white "sanitary" silicone. It looks like it is also an option for cracking.
But the enamel, as a rule, with cracks during life, should be covered with special mixtures. In advanced taxidermy workshops the facility is available.
quote: Originally posted by Sergey outfitter:
Then no one feeds them, so they themselves plow with tusks in order to get the tops of the roots! And clicks, as you know, grow from this!
Well, they don't feed not only in the Far East.
However, the more often a boar has to shovel the FROZEN ground, the more likely it is that it will break off its fangs.
And the canines grow by themselves, and not at all because they receive a load in the form of ground "silicium" or stones.
It all depends on the physiological characteristics of a particular individual and the grasp-lack of minerals.
Neman 16-08-2010 11:10
quote: Originally posted by Sergey outfitter:
this clicks were 31 cm each!
Sergey outfitter 17-08-2010 08:10
Could these fangs be seen? Or at least see the trophy sheet? Or a measurement report? As a last resort - photos of those extracted against the background of the ruler?
It is possible, but only in Italy they are now hanging at Antonio and Alfonso's probably in the most prominent places!
Sergey outfitter 17-08-2010 08:12
quote: Originally posted by Sergey outfitter:
Could these fangs be seen? Or at least see the trophy sheet? Or a measurement report? As a last resort - photos of those extracted against the background of the ruler?
They were taken from the jaws as soon as they were
http://www.welcome.khv.ru/hunting/WILDBOAR/wildboar%20hunt.JPG
Neman 17-08-2010 12:56
Weidmanns Heil 19-08-2010 03:33
Fangs crackle from changes in humidity and temperature changes in the room. Therefore, cooked and immediately pulled out into the air burst especially quickly, it is better for them, as already mentioned here, to cool in a pan, then wrap it in a rag, paper and in a polyethylene bag on the shelf. I tried to get the fangs without boiling, using the rotting method. Afterwards they stink a little, and they are dirtier than cooked ones, but they crackle less, although they crackle all the same. Now I have adapted to protect them with cyanoacrylate glue, which is as fluid as possible, it is less noticeable than epoxy. Then walk with fine metal wool. The glue is like this http://shintop.ru/novokusnetsk/catalog_shop.php?action=item&id=1271300527 or similar. This is cotton wool http://www.sibglazier.ru/catalog.html/prods/tehnologija-nakladnogo-vitrazha/instrumenty-i-aksessuary/regalead/metallicheskaja-vata-20720
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but
Sergey outfitter 23-09-2010 03:49
quote: Originally posted by Nemansky:
There is no 31 cm on the photo. Ordinary ordinary canines.
Trust me! there are 31, and the fact that they are ordinary, who would argue, all the fangs are the same!
oos 22-02-2011 20:21
Probably not in the subject, but I could not find a better place. They brought the head of a wild boar with such canines (right 35 cm, left 38). The boar was said to be ordinary, 120 kilograms.
This business- akin to catalogs of stars, where you can register a pair of stars, and also just get into a foreign book, having only a picture with a trophy, without even making any measurements at all. This is also possible. In Russia, in general, even in hunting encyclopedias, whoever you want will be included, including the fake generals of the FSB, the Ministry of Internal Affairs and the Cossacks - just pay money, and every year they will republish this lie with new heroes of Russia. Even at the recent exhibitions of the All-Russian Exhibition Center and Crocus - another such business was announced by the chief editor of MK, aka OiR XXi, having organized the Book of Russian Hunting Trophies ... a multivolume one.
At the same time, not only an annual one, no one can hold the All-Russian Exhibition of Trophies every three years- there is nothing to show. The meeting of experts was forced to agree that only once every 5 years it makes sense to gather in order to, perhaps, evaluate something ... or even it cannot be. One piece of junk travels for decades across the country as a props, that's the whole trophy case. At the same time, 75% were brought from abroad by organizers who reward themselves.
In general, the easiest way to get an expert assessment, a diploma and maybe some kind of award- this is to find out at which of the All-Russian Exhibitions the Trophy Commission will work (which, in fact, is not needed for this and is assembled by itself from people who wanted to gather themselves, without having any authority to do so) - make an application, pay a small bribe, they write you a certificate and a diploma at the exhibition, and they will certainly give you some kind of reward (well, because no one bears anything, so everyone who comes is given). All this in 3 days of the Exhibition is easy, fast, cheap and guaranteed - the Exhibition diploma is in your pocket, even if you come with a hedgehog near Moscow. But this is rare, once a year, and not every year. Moreover, in the regions you can carry out this focus yourself - no one interferes.
An easier way- bring the data to the commission of the organizer of the trophy system, or send a photo to the head office and pay the appropriate fee (in fact, for placement in the catalog), - get your papers and a copy of the catalog - everything is like when buying stars in the sky or areas on the moon. They will send and register - do not hesitate, this is a business - you will succeed, you will recommend to your neighbors, and you will send them yourself, why cheat. It works all the time, you don't have to wait.
As for the actual acquisition of knowledge with an accuracy of + - 10-15% about what you got, - with regards to the wild boar - you yourself will find out all this very easily if you make a few simple measurements. However, the correct extraction of the canines and scalding of the skull, which many do incorrectly, are quite important here. It is necessary not to forget, for example, to boil, so as not to lose the lower part of the fangs during dismantling, to allow it to cool without taking it out of the water, so as not to crack, not to dry it, and even more so not to dry it forcibly, so as not to dry out, remove it first by applying it to yourself, and then gently tapping with a mallet, while disassembling the jaw from the bottom and from the side ... it is better, of course, let it be done by a professional taxidermist. They know how to stretch a wolf to a lion and a boar to a saber-toothed tiger.
And since I am quoting Kretschmar in the text, I will take the picture from Kuzenkov's magazine so that it does not turn out that we have someone closer to the topic than another.
Accordingly, about the systems themselves, in order not to repeat themselves and not to tell notions from a third person, it is better to quote a direct participant in one of such assessment systems, therefore further I will cite an excerpt from the text of Mikhail Krechmar, who repeatedly participated in such commissions(no comment, so what he said, so let it be):
The CIC system is more conservative, but has actually retained its position to this day. It is based on three basic principles - typicality, beauty and symmetry. This system is very complex and contains a whole list of additional factors that affect the total score. It was she who was the basis of the "Regulations on hunting trophies in the USSR" and subsequent educational methods of universities involved in the training of specialists in the hunting industry of Russia.
Evaluation of trophies according to CIC is carried out mainly in relation to European game (the system for evaluating trophies of wild boar and red deer is especially well developed - it is the European population, one might even say that it is "modeled" for red deer).
There is a scale of discounts for the asymmetry of the antlers (for example: the basis for the discount is the difference in centimeters between the length of the right and left antlers), for atypical trophies (if the collapse of the antlers' horns is greater than the length of the antlers, then the difference is a discount), for the ugly appearance (broken process). Not only the linear dimensions are assessed, but also the weight of the horns (not earlier than three months after extraction, with a sawed-off skull, including the nasal bone).
Along with discounts, a system of markups for color, “pearliness”, curvature of the rosette, and furrowing has been developed. In this system, the skins of animals (bear, wolf, lynx, etc.) are also subject to assessment. Scoring ranges have been defined for all animals that qualify the trophy for bronze, silver and gold medal or the Grand Prix. However, the real assessment of trophies according to the CIC system is received only at specialized exhibitions.
CIC as the system is designed for the so-called. "Cultural" hunting economy in Central Europe, with constant monitoring of the trophy state of each promising individual and constant culling of animals unsatisfactory in trophy terms.
Eva Shockey with Alaskan Elk Trophy
A much younger system was developed by the chairman of the International Safari Club McElroy in 1975. It is called the Safari Club International system, abbreviated as SCI. In this system, even atypical and not hunted horns are subject to measurement, there is no system of discounts and premiums for (in) symmetry, (in) typicality and beauty. The skins cannot be measured, since the shot itself is to be measured.
In this system, there is no division into bronze, silver and gold medals, but there is a minimum required for inclusion in the SCI Book of Records. The creators of the technique for measuring trophies of the International Safari Club had the following tasks: the technique must be objective, and therefore only horns and bones are used for measurement (with the exception of euthanized animals, wild turkey) and completely excludes subjective signs; it should be simple and versatile; accessible (i.e. trophies should be measured not only at exhibitions) - this implies the presence of a network of specially trained meters. And this has been realized.
Of course, the SCI system is not without its drawbacks - for example, it has a clear bias towards North American animals. In practice, this is manifested in the fact that there are no rigid, unambiguous criteria for differentiating the trophies of the European elk according to the type - deer antlers or shovel-shaped ones. And since each version of the horns is assessed according to its own method, there is a possibility for discrepancies.
Trophies for measurement in the SCI system are accepted no earlier than 60 days after the capture of the animal - after the so-called. "Green" or "wet" period - during this time, excess moisture is already leaving the trophies and they take, i.e. dimensions that practically do not change in the future. It is obligatory to have field photographs with a trophy, for animals with branched horns - several photographs from different angles, in which all processes will be clearly visible.
After measuring the trophy, the meter fills in a special form, which indicates the type, place of extraction, date of extraction and measurement, type of territory (fenced or free), organizing company and guide. In addition, the hunter chooses the type of fixation of his trophy, for example, just an entry in the book (in this case, the hunter will receive a small colorful certificate) or a premium walnut medallion.
There are restrictions on the inclusion of a trophy in the book - minimums. If the trophy scored less than the minimum points when measuring, then the hunter still has the opportunity to include his trophy in various nominations using the so-called. "Photo input" - this requires only a photo with a trophy and a short questionnaire, no measurement data is needed.
The system widely known in the world, which is used by such a prominent international organization as Game Conservation International, is distinguished by enviable simplicity and clarity in the presentation of results, is practically unknown in Russia.
As unknown in our country and other systems widespread abroad, in particular Roland Ward's English system, which is, perhaps, the first truly trophy hunting-oriented system for fixing trophies (that is, a system that has important key links: methodology, meters and a trophy book). The first edition of Ward's trophy book was published in 1892, and currently there are already 29 issues. To the disadvantages of his system, many attribute the fact that for horned animals (for example, antelopes), this system takes into account only the length of the horn, and the base is ignored - thus, not the oldest animal (traditionally considered the best, "correct" trophy) can get an advantage, but, for example, young or female (as in the case of the oryx, in which females have longer, thinner horns with small bases, and males are thicker, but often shorter).
Also it is necessary to mention the methodology of the American Boone and Crockett club founded in 1887, part of which formed the basis of the SCI trophy measurement method.
In addition to the above systems, often (sometimes even too often) measurements are carried out according to the outfitter's or hunter's own methodology. Usually they are extremely simple and take into account either only the weight of the horns of a trophy (roe deer, elk), or its length (bear).
P.S. Andrey Shalygin: By the way, for each type of smartphones in the respective AppStore you will always find a dozen programs for self-assessment of trophies according to the standards of any trophy assessment system, so in a certain sense, to obtain an accurate estimate for some systems and an approximate one for those taking into account invariants, it is quite enough to be able to use a tape measure and a caliper.
Wild boar tusks are one of the best hunting trophies! A boar hunting - this is definitely a dangerous activity with a lot of thrills, adrenaline in the blood, and, possibly, with stabbing and cutting wounds in a dog, which often falls under the sharp fangs of a cleaver. This article will discuss one of the best hunting trophies, how to properly extract wild boar tusks, how and how to process them to preserve them for many years, and how to avoid cracking and damage to the fangs.
To begin with, it should be said that the best canines for a trophy are canines with a length of 20-23 cm and a uniform width of about 25 mm. Such fangs are possessed by boilers at the age of 4-5 years. In old boars, which are 6-8 years old, canines can reach 25 cm in length and 30 mm. wide. But in wild boars over seven years old, very often (in comparison with younger individuals), the canines are broken off or worn off by a few millimeters. A piglet at the age of one year already has small canines about 2 cm long. And already at the age of 1.5 years, they can reach 4 cm. After another year, the canines protrude by 5 cm or more. At this time, they become razor-sharp.
If you have not yet removed the fangs from the boar's skull, it is better to ask a more experienced hunter for help for the first time. If this is not possible, then use the recommendations below, and you will succeed!
First of all, remove the skin from the boar's head, cut out all the muscles in the jaw and tongue. After that we need a hacksaw for metal. But we will not saw off the fangs, but the jaws. The lower jaw of the cleaver is sawed off at a distance of 10-15 cm from the canines, the upper jaw at a distance of 5-8 cm. It is necessary to saw off parallel to the growth of the canines.
After we have extracted the jaw, it must be boiled. Pour cold water into some container (bucket or saucepan), place the jaw of the boar there and simmer over low heat. You need to boil until the fangs can be freely removed from the boar's jaw. This is usually achieved by boiling for a little over an hour. Then you need to wait for the water to cool and remove the fangs. After removing the canines, they must be freed from the soft tissue adjacent to the canine using hard tissue. Then the internal soft tissues of the tooth (pulp) are removed. The usual tweezers will help us with this, or, if this "tool" is not available, then the usual wire. Fangs are wiped with a soft cloth inside and out. Some hunters wipe their fangs with a rag dipped in alcohol. Fangs are dried for no more than a day, since due to a sharp change in temperature, they crack and fall apart. After drying, the canines are poured.
Important!!! Fangs must be degreased with gasoline or alcohol before pouring.
Some hunters use wax or paraffin for embedding. But these materials are suitable for filling canines, which will constantly be in the same temperature regime. If the temperature changes, then sooner or later they will crack. The most sensible solution would be to fill the boar tusks with epoxy. After pouring, until the resin has hardened, it is recommended to insert a wire into the canines (with its help we will attach the trophy to the stand board). But the fill only protects the fangs from cracking, and it cannot prevent the destruction of the enamel. To preserve the enamel, wild boar tusks are covered with two layers of colorless varnish or colorless glue. Treatment of canines with fat can save from destruction of enamel.
The choice of the place where the trophy will be stored is also important. It is not necessary to hang it in the kitchen, where there is constant heat from the stove, near heating appliances and where sunlight enters. In short, avoid high temperatures! Good luck to you on the hunt and great trophies!
