How to choose a bow for shooting. Bow for shooting

Andrey Shalygin: Keep in mind that an error in determining the stretch by 2-3 inches leads to a decrease in accuracy indicators when shooting from compound onion 40 meters by about 150-250%. For those who, as by the way, are always in a very gray Russian bowhunting, want to cry about where it came from - read the American studies of ATA specialists, published annually. It is stretching and its stability that make up about half of the constituent components in the concept of accuracy.

The most interesting thing is that the vast majority of bow sellers and "specialists" in archery do not even suspect that the same person has at least 3 different stretch marks. Moreover, for each bow with a different geometry and attachment, it is different.

Purely practically even shooting uphill and uphill interferes with the consistency of stretching(to maintain the perpendicularity of the arms to the body, you need to tilt the body in the belt). At the same time, boom lengths may not be precisely tailored to the length of the boom, since if the sighting of the optical system is carried out on sports arrows, and then to use them with tips for hunting, then the weight, balance and aerodynamics of the arrow will change, which forces us to change the scope setting. It is more logical to have training arrows and arrows for small game a little longer than hunting ones, as well as choosing larger and heavier sports tips so that the excess length and weight roughly corresponds to the weight of the hunting tip. Photo by Olga Frunze

Incorrect definition of the stretch of compound onion is a common disease of Russian onion sellers

First and foremost- in no case read archery manuals and do not listen to athletes and school coaches who read in a 1958 book that the length of the stretch is determined using a ruler attached to the chest with arms extended forward, and since then it is stupidly like parrots relaying this nonsense.

Second and no less important- put out of your head the second most common nonsense - that the length of the stretch is in some kind of formula relationship in relation to your anthropometric data.

If it is primitive, then the length of the extension or extension is the distance at which you pull the bowstring when cocking it (there will be an extension from the bowstring, there will be an extension from the stop), which means that it depends on (for those archery connoisseurs who think they are grown out of school sports schools, write down this far from complete list on your wall):

• the length of the arms in all their parts,
• chest width,
• its shrinkage during compression,
• the correctness of the stand and its type (position of the hands relative to the body and body movements),
• joint subsidence under load, depending on the weight of the bow and its years-off,
• grab the grip and release (I hold the grip with my thumb, or with my palm, I unfold the hand forward, or toward myself, where I have the trigger on the wrist release, I twist my hand with a T-shaped release or not ...),
• the standard anatomical handle-pad is removed or is standing,
• the type of this particular release,
• release length (winter, summer, where the trigger is ...),
• release adjustments (there, actually, slings, couplings, sliders ...),
• type of release grip for the bowstring (for the bowstring, for the stirrup, for the knock-clamp, for the loop),
• the length of the loop on a particular string or the size of the stirrup,
• type of an archer's attachment when aiming (I pull the pip-site to one eye, or to the nose for both ..., by the ear, by the hand, or by the neck, or under the cheekbone, or by a ball on the lips ...),
• bras-high of the most specific bow (distance from the bowstring to the stop),
• the position and length of the athlete's neck and head (a little you start to hide - you pulled your head in, bent your neck forward - that's it, there is no stretch already),
• and even the degree of tension in the muscles of the body and arms of the athlete in the process of stretching ... not to mention the fact that the winter glove on the hunter and the wrist release attached to the clothing are also critical. Etc

And if someone assumes that he can measure all this with a ruler in one attachment and without the bow itself and its body kit, then he is just an absolute uneducated layman, who understands absolutely nothing in archery. Heard that in a store or section they measure with a ruler without a bow and a selected body kit - that's all, goodbye, you have nothing else to do here, these are crooks.

Since the length of the stretch significantly affects the achievement of the passport characteristics of the bow, and also even more significantly on the value of the accuracy indicators, the stretching of a particular bow is determined incorrectly both in case of underweight and / or when overtightening:

• will reduce years-off, that is, reset, leaving more effort when aiming, which will reduce its accuracy;
• will not allow the bow to reach a given full eccentric block rotation, which will affect power, weight, range, speed;
• will change the aiming base, which will introduce a mismatch between the aiming system of points and diameters etc.
  

Correct determination of the compliance of the stretch of a particular compound bow is extremely important for effective shooting and it also depends on the specific hunting and equipment. And it may so happen that when you change the release, and even the clothes, it will need to be adjusted (and, as a rule, this always happens).

This is why the stretch can be adjusted on all modern block bows. by rearranging the position of the stopper-limiter on the blocks, which can be done independently (symmetrically on both blocks for biexcentric systems), in half-inch increments. within the range available for that particular bow, of course.

On good bows, the stretch ranges are generally wide and adjustable in half-inch increments. The budget bows are adjustable in inch increments. Therefore, you can fix only what you can fix.

Two different bows of the same owner can have different stretches (stretch), and both will be perfectly correct in terms of the dynamics of the bow itself. Just because let's say BH (bras-high) for these bows is different like device handles, and even clothingarrow(for example, gloves, on which or under which the release is worn, or creating an additional pull on the handle). One bow is winter snow-camo, the second is autumn-spring, the third is summer. The handle is standing - removed. The loops are different, for different releases ... Therefore, the question - what is your stretch - this is a question that is asked by stupid sellers who do not at all understand that this is a question for them in the first place. Photo - Olga Frunze

Correct definition of the stretch of a compound bow

Here I tried to reveal the main mistakes of beginners, therefore, not only stretching is sometimes the case, - there is a detailed description of the main about both the stand and the mistakes.

"Stretching" is one of the most painful issues in fitting a compound bow, because each bow is assembled strictly according to the anthropometric data of each specific owner, and it is almost impossible to shoot well from someone else's bow. Everyone's hands are different, the length of the stretch is different, the length of the neck is different, the stance is also different, and the length of the nose and its location on the body of the Russian is also not like that of the Korean. Accordingly, bows are all as individual as no two people are alike.

Even the option of aiming and attaching the bow is different for everyone, not only in school, but also in anatomy. The multiple world champion from Korea and the Russian champion and Olympic athlete Loginova generally aim with both eyes, pressing the bowstring into their snub noses all the way. So in this version, the length of the nose and its elastic properties would have to be entered into the formula and the ruler, if it could be measured at all with a ruler and determined by the formula.

Changing the long wrist release for a sporty pistol or short and shooting the same way with the same settings of the same bow is impossible by definition. It is also impossible to use the sports clicker on hunting bows to determine the consistency of stretch., since the lamella of the clicker can fall under the ledge of the tip or insert at full extension and jam the arrow in the shelf (create an obstacle), which will easily lead to a break in the arrow at the start if it has damage (in turn, the rear debris can cut through your left support hand). At the same time, clicking a clicker on a hunt will scare away everything that is possible.

If, when shooting, you take a wrong stance or put on something that will prevent you from accepting it (jacket, sweater, backpack ...) - you, of course, will shoot worse. How much worse? For a practical experiment, three bows were taken with an optimally matched stretch, and then it was increased by just one single inch for each bow. The results of successive series by the magnitude of the deflection of arrows from the center of the targets:

30 yards: 2.77; 3.53 - 40 meters: 4.04, 5.95 - 60 meters: 5.39, 9.77

Catastrophe is the one and onlyan inch of bowstring length increased in excess of the standard leads to a deterioration in accuracy at minimum distances of 30%, and at maximum distances up to 100%.

The main condition is to use the services of professionals, and not on the occasion of the sales of equipment, attracting students from the sports sections. In any case, after complete assembly, it is always worth going to a service center certified by the onion manufacturer for professional maintenance and reconfiguration.

• Establish the fact that the bow at maximum extension reaches the critical turn of the eccentrics
• Establish the fact of the correct position of all elements of your stance, excluding variations in under-tension and overtightening - perpendicularity of the arms to the body, parallelism of the arms, vertical position of the necks, head rotation, turning the axis of the arms in the forearm, tension of the shoulder girdle, slouching, straightening the sternum, sagging of the clavicular girdle, grasping the hand (one brush can make an inch of difference), etc.
• Establish the correctness of the fixation of the grip elements, fixation and aiming - the correspondence of the position of the pip-site to the length of your neck and head parameters, the length of the sling, adjustments and putting on the wrist release, the grip of the T-shaped pistol release, the use of the bow handle, etc.
• After eliminating all the comments of the rack and equipment, - Determine by a series of measurements (with a certain time interval, excluding the situational memory of the position of the body, taken sequentially over and over again - ask to walk, rest, move on the spot) the optimal value of the actual drawing of your specific bow in a specific body kit so that, subject to all the rules, point one is reached.
• Determine the options for body kit, accessories for the bow, and clothing that the client intends to use in the process of shooting this bow.
• Re-mount the bow for a certain average stretch and, if necessary, select (trim) arrows in accordance with this stretch with the development of recommendations for completing and reconfiguring depending on the season and type of hunting.

I hope that now it is all the more clear to the reader that the same shooter will have a completely different stretch for traditional and classic bows, since here all the previous is superimposed on the lack of release in the traditional bow and on the manner of shooting without sights. Therefore, the question - what kind of stretching do you need the bow for - is the question of an amateur who understands absolutely nothing about the dynamics of a shot. Photo by Olga Frunze.

***

Major attachment errors when aiming with a hunting wrist release, affecting the correct drawing of a compound bow

Ideal stretch length

Your ideal stretcher length is the length at which your shooting is most accurate and the butt is most comfortable. And here you cannot say - this is right, and this is wrong, there is no general rule here.

But it is unlikely that an archer with a height of 1 m 75 cm will be able to successfully shoot a bow with a 30 "stretch, it is equally unlikely that with a height of 1 m 90 cm, you can comfortably shoot a bow with a 28" stretch ... not that it was impossible, just unlikely. For some, "ideal length" can be determined by feeling, based on trial and error, rather than calculation. Nevertheless, we recommend the presence of common sense. If you are new to archery, you will be more likely to achieve success if you start from averages and choose the length of the stretch used by archers with similar physical parameters to you. Fortunately, on most of our bows, making small adjustments to the length of the bow is very easy. In addition, you can always go back to the store to correct the stretch in the process of mastering the correct form of shooting. So it's not a matter of life or death when buying a bow. Over time, you will still want to change something.

Why is it important.....

1. Longer stretch = more power.

The longer the stretch - the longer the working stroke of the bowstring - the faster the bow. As a general rule of thumb, 1 "extra draw length gives roughly 10 fps in arrow speed. Bows are measured according to the IBO standard at a 30" draw. So if your bow has an IBO speed of 330 fps and you are going to shoot at 28 ", You should keep in mind that its speed will be lower by 20 fps (approximately). This is one of the reasons why many archers choose inappropriately long stretches. It's not fair that your friend's bow shoots 20 fps faster than yours just because he is 10 cm taller, isn't it? Your bow should be as fast or faster! There shouldn't be any advantage just because it's a little longer. Like it or not, they really have this advantage. But those who are shorter should also know that they have other advantages. If you are 1m and 75cm tall, it is ridiculous to buy shoes in size 45, just as silly to buy a bow with a stretch of 30 "if 27" or 28 "is better. A bow with a long stretch will certainly be faster, but you will lose a lot of convenience and control. above shooting This is not a very profitable trade, so we strongly recommend using a bow with a stretching length that best suits your physical parameters.

2. How to find the control points of the attachment

The correct stretch will help you establish anchor points in the stretch - the main elements of accurate shooting. When you stretch the bow, you will need to define the butt contact control points. These points should be the same from shot to shot. It is possible that the main point will be where the fist touches the jaw (1), perhaps where the bowstring touches the corner of the lips (2), or where the tip of the nose touches the bowstring (3). Whichever control point you choose, or several of them, they will be an important element in helping to repeat the correct attack from shot to shot. If the shots are not fired from the same butt, your accuracy will never be perfect.

3. A look through the pip site

Too far from the pip site

Suitable distance is about 4-6 "

Too close

4. Wrong length problems

Shooting with the wrong line length inevitably leads to other problems in shooting technique.

Photo A- too short

If the stretch is too short (photo A), the control points are harder to track. They tend to swim in full stretch. Without tight contact of the control point, it is very difficult to aim steadily and fire repetitive shots. In addition, in this case, the pip is located too far from the eye, which causes the following inconveniences for the shooter: the field of view through the pip significantly narrows the view, while allowing too much external picture in the field of view, which makes it difficult to concentrate on the scope. A short stretch makes the shooter compensate for it by tilting his head towards the bowstring or bending his left arm, many people shoot because of this in a too closed stance. This leads to difficulties in keeping the front sight in the top ten when aiming.

Photo B- Too long

If your stretch length is too long, this presents a different set of problems. The pip site will be too close to the eye, and many or all of the breakpoints will be difficult to establish. To make matters worse, to compensate for too long a stretch, you have to shoot from a stance that is too open, extending the shoulder, adding tension and instability in aiming. You have to tilt your head back in order to better see the pip site. In addition, if the stretch is too long, the left hand gets hit by the bowstring. If the length of the string matches the arrow in the block bow, the string must not reach the left hand! The hitting of the bowstring on the arm is an objective sign of a too long stretch, or some serious mistake in the workmanship.

A few more points ...

How much can the loop on the string affect the length of the string?

Gripping the release by the bowstring directly

Gripping the release by the loop on the bowstring

Although the loop on the string itself does not change the actual length of the stretch, the butt will change when this element is added, as if the stretch was lengthened. Let's look at the photo above, this is the same bow, with the same stretch length, pink lines show the change in the position of the control point on the face. In this case, the position of the bowstring relative to the face does not change.

Thus, we can conclude that when adding a loop to the bowstring, it is worth keeping in mind the size of the release. And, although in itself, the loop provides many advantages, but one has to take into account that some release models will turn out to be less suitable precisely because of the change in the attachment point towards lengthening.

How accurately do you need to hit your stretch?

The hobby for archery in our country arose relatively recently and almost spontaneously, mainly after the appearance on the screens of the saga about the adventures of the hobbits. Judging by the amount of materials on the Runet about bows and shooting from this ancient throwing weapon, the number of followers of Robin Hood and William Tell is growing at an exponential rate.

The most burning question for neophytes is where to start, how and which bow to choose? There is no definite answer to it, so we will try to tell you a little about everything: the types of bows, their advantages and disadvantages, the selection criteria - the process in which the last word will be yours. So, let's find out what kind of bows there are for shooting, which one to choose for hunting, and in general, which one to choose, a bow or a crossbow?

The design of the weapon for throwing a feathered stick with a sharp end has been improved over the millennia, refuting the adage about the futility of the invention of the bicycle. Therefore, today we have three types of bows.

The basic rules for choosing bows are presented in this video:

Traditional

Those that were used by our ancestors until the moment when firearms fell into their hands. These are bows of Indians, Papuans, Eskimos, Chukchi and other autochthonous peoples. These are replicas of military weapons of the peoples of Europe and Asia.

They are made according to well-known and reconditioned technologies, using natural materials - wood, leather, natural adhesives. There can be no question of any mass production of such products, each bow will have its own characteristics, style of behavior, one might say - character. Mastering a traditional bow requires daily training that lasts for years.

We will talk about which traditional bow to choose later in this article.

Classic

These are bows used in sports and therefore called "Olympic". They are related to traditional ones by the way of accumulating energy for a shot - by bending the elastic branches (shoulders) of the bow. Most of these bows have a recursive shape - a double shoulder bend.

This design allows you to store twice as much energy with the same length of the elastic beam. It's very simple - one arc works in compression, the other in tension. Europe owes the appearance of recursive bows to the Huns, a nomadic people who came from the Steppe.

The sporting purpose of the classic bow predetermined the fact that they began to install elements on it that would significantly increase the accuracy of shooting and exclude elements of chance from the training process as much as possible. These are sights, balance beams, shelves for arrows, from which they come off without hitting the handle, vibration dampeners.

They have in common with the traditional and the way of holding the arrow when pulling the bowstring. The most famous are two of them: English - the shank of the arrow between the index and middle fingers, and also Indian - hold the bowstring with the index (the shank rests on it) with the middle and ring fingers.

The most essential element of a classic bow, despite its apparent insignificance, is the shelf on which the arrow is held. An ingenious design, the types of which are innumerable, allows the arrow to come off the bowstring without hitting the handle with the plumage. This made it possible to abandon natural feathers, replace them with rigid stabilizers and significantly improve accuracy.

Sports rules prohibit the installation of devices on a classic bow with which it is possible to build an aiming line based on more than one point.

In addition, pulling the bowstring is always a strength exercise, because as the shoulders bend, their resistance increases. Therefore, learning to shoot with such bows is almost as difficult as with traditional ones. But training can be systematized and good results can be achieved much faster.

Blocky

We owe their appearance in 1969 to Holles Allen, who lived in Missouri (USA). The design is based on a system of blocks (pulley blocks) that increase the force applied to the travel end as many times as there are these blocks.

Energy for throwing an arrow is accumulated not only in the shoulders, but also in the system of cables, one of the branches of which is the bowstring. A feature of these bows is the "wall" effect - the release of effort when the maximum stretch point is reached. It reaches 80 percent. If, for example, the MK-SV75 compound bow has a maximum pulling force of 27 kilograms, then at the moment of aiming the shooter needs a force of 4 kilograms to hold the bowstring.

The power diagram for pulling the "block" is a mirror image of the same process for a classic bow. First comes the overcoming (peak of effort) of the elasticity of the shoulder, which has potential energy. As the tension progresses, it accumulates in the cables (turns into kinetic), and the force applied by the archer to the bowstring falls. Athletes recognized this phenomenon as a scam, therefore compound bows Olympic Games not allowed. But it became possible to equip it with elements that equate its effectiveness with a firearm.

In addition to shelves for arrows, balancers and vibration dampers (optional), complexes for building an aiming line are installed on compound bows. This is a sight with a ring frame and a pip-site - a ring in a bowstring through which the arrow can see the target.

But the most interesting detail was the release - a device thanks to which the shooter pulls the string with his shoulder and elbow joints, like a lever. The fingers are not involved in this process, the hand is relaxed. Choosing a compound bow is not easy.

The most popular block models are:

How to choose a bow for shooting for beginners, block for hunting, sports or other - you will learn all this below.

Choice problems

When choosing a throwing weapon, they are usually guided by compliance with historical truth (aesthetics), combat effectiveness, ease of use, and price.

Truth and aesthetics

Many are drawn to archery by the desire to be like the elf Legolas, other fantasy or historical characters. Although archaeologists have proven the fact that the English archers suffered from monstrous scoliosis.

• Most reliably repeat the contours and design traditional bows Samik products (ex.). The handle is made of glued solid wood, and the removable arms are laminated with an external plastic coating. The only thing that can be installed on them without damaging the structure is a shelf that allows the use of arrows not only with natural feathers. The model is similar to them (Sebastian Flute). Bows are also good,.
• Real olympic recurve bows produced by SF. The series starts with the Axiom model. They have an aluminum handle on which you can install a sight, balance beam, plunger, shako. This is a transitional option between tradition and classics: their shoulders are laminated - wood, covered with plastic. There are variants of classic bows made entirely of modern materials. For example, the Blue Knight Bow (), which has fiberglass shoulders and an aluminum handle.
• Block bows Is an industrial aesthetic, they are an arrow throwing machine.

This video will tell you how and how to choose the right bow for a novice shooter for hunting:

Combat effectiveness

• Classic bows give all their energy to the arrow while lowering the bowstring. Due to the short duration of the force impulse, the arrow flies at a speed of no more than 50 m / s and does not have great penetrating power. However, this allows you to increase the rate of fire if you do not draw the bow at full strength or do it with a jerk.
• Have blocker the arrow accelerates relatively slowly, and the peak of the force falls on the moment it leaves the shelf. The arrow's flight speed reaches 90 m / s, it is possible to use heavy arrows with high penetrating power. That is why such bows are most often positioned as hunting bows. Incomplete stretch of the bowstring is impossible, the rate of fire is low. But the accuracy and accuracy of hits is comparable to a firearm.

Ease of ownership

First of all, this is the ability to customize the bow for yourself.

• Classic models are not in vain made collapsible. And due to the fact that for tuning it is necessary to change the shoulders - to shorter or longer, rigid or elastic. When choosing such a bow, it is customary to focus on the growth of the arrow. Although the British proceeded from a different reason: a long bow with the same pulling force deforms less, and therefore lasts longer.
• Blocky the bow is adjusted by changing the position of the blocks on the eccentrics. This does not require high qualifications from the owner, additional costs for the purchase of shoulders and bowstrings.

Wherein:

• By today's standard, a classic hunting bow cannot be longer than 60 inches (150 cm). Sports bows reach length and 70 inches. The length of the blockheads does not exceed 90 cm; it is less problematic to wade through the forest wilderness with it.
• In terms of weight, only the classics that are used in the barebow version - without a modern body kit, including scopes, win over blockers.

Price

This is the most controversial criterion. Compound bows are cheaper when combined with combat effectiveness and a wealth of equipment.

• For example, Samik Polaris, which the manufacturer positions as a bow for beginners, has a good choice, costs more than 11 thousand rubles, and the package includes only a bowstring and a simple shelf. Its pulling force is no more than 36 pounds (16.3 kg). A set of interchangeable arms costs at least five thousand.
• Compare it with compound onion Barnett Vortex is the same level, which costs 15 thousand. Tension force 19 to 45 lb (9 to 21 kg), no investment required. The delivery set includes three arrows, a sight with three pins, a shelf, a shako.

Conclusion

If you want to master archery as an art, your aesthetic taste is amused by shapes and lines, then buy the classics, which, by the way, you can and.

Compound bows for those who value practicality first of all, who have no time to visit training halls, and good results want to reach quickly. But if you want to switch to classic bows, then they will have to learn again.

This video will show you how to choose arrows for your bow:

Most novice shooters face the following problem: "How to correctly determine the length of his stretch?" Indeed, each specific bow is distinguished by its strictly fixed stretch and the length of the string tension. Some models, however, allow a certain adjustment of this parameter, but even then in a small range, and in other cases, the problem is solved only by replacing the modules of the blocks, or the blocks themselves, which is a rather laborious process. Therefore, in order to avoid this unpleasant fate, before buying a compound bow, you need to find out exactly which stretch is right for you.

Shooting technique and skills are very important factors

In order to accurately determine the length of the stretch, first of all, it is necessary to master the technique of shooting from this bow. Shooting accuracy, in turn, depends on two indicators - the attachment and the length of the stretch. This applies exclusively to block-type bows, since products of other modifications do not have such restrictions on the length of the stretch (they can be stretched to the size you need - only the bow will break if you stretch more than the amount of stretch of the existing model).

Novice archers, or those who hold the bow for the first time, will not be able to immediately correctly determine their stretch, since it changes as they master the technique of shooting and depends on many components - the position of the body, head, support, etc. In most cases, with a more detailed development of this weapon, the length of the stretch is reduced, although there are exceptions.

The easiest way to determine the length of the stretch

If, for some reason, you need to determine the length of the pull, and you don't have a bow at hand, you can use a fairly simple method. To do this, we rest against some vertical surface, for example, a door. At the same time, we hold the head vertically and apply the measuring arrow with the tail to the corner of the lips. A mark is placed on the arrow at the place where the left hand rests, which indicates the real length of the stretch.

The first time, this procedure can be done only if you are good at archery and know how to take the correct stance. However, there are a few of the most common mistakes beginners make.

The first is an excessive tilt of the head back, and the turn arm is too extended forward. In this case, the length will be longer than the real one.

The second mistake is when the head is tilted forward and the tension length is accordingly less than optimal.

By the span of the arms

Another rather trivial way to determine the stretch of a bow is based on the use of data on the range of the archer's arms. So, for a shooter of average build, the range of his arms is approximately commensurate with his height. Thus, by the height of a person, you can approximately estimate the length of the stretch required for him. The data obtained can be double-checked against the table below.

Shooting with a banner

Shooting with a partial stretch

Old proven technique

From Soviet times, another method has come down to us, using which you can determine the length of the stretch of a compound bow. True, there is one caveat - you do not need to stretch your arms forward too much.

The bottom line is this: the arrow is horizontal, and the shoulders remain in a free position. By the way, statistically such measurements are more accurate in men, since their shoulders are not as mobile as in women. Next, we put the arrow with a shank in the hole between the collarbones and slightly rest (without trying to pierce ourselves) straighten our arms and join our palms. In this case, you do not need to stretch, just extend your arms to their full length and make a mark where the middle fingers end. This will be the pull length.

Stretch length ATA

The above methods allow you to roughly estimate the length of the bow stretch for a beginner archer, which will inevitably change as the shooting technique improves. In the classic archery section, there is a standard called ATA Stretch Length. It is he who is often given in all archery catalogs, tables and programs. This parameter is defined as the actual length of the stretch + 1.75 inches.

Of this standard in their technical characteristics adheres to most of the manufacturers of compound bows, with the exception of such a well-known company as Mathews, which instead of 1.75 inches adds 1 inch to the actual stretch. Therefore, if you are considering products from Darton, BowTech, Hoyt or other analogs, then the specified length of the stretch of 30 inches will correspond to the actual 28.25 inches. A Mathews bow with the same 30 "will work for those with a stretch of 29".

Output

We have looked at several methods that allow you to quickly calculate your own stretch length for a compound bow. Keep in mind, however, that when choosing a bow or adjusting its length, add 1 3/4 "to its nameplate stretch, and for Mathews models add 1". Otherwise, the length of the bow will be incorrect.

The aim of the archer is to make the perfect shot and repeat it as accurately as possible. To do this, each archer strives to adjust his equipment in such a way that it is as stable as possible. In particular, attention should be paid to the selection of the bowstring and the installation of a “saddle” on it, which will help to put the boom in the same place every time, providing the most even outreach.

There are different options for weaving the bowstring. For example, "Flemish", which is wound from separate threads, or "endless loop", which is wound with one thread. Athletes use only an “endless loop”, since this method of weaving gives an even thickness of the ears and such a bowstring is generally stronger and easier to manufacture.

The most important things to consider when choosing a bowstring:

• 1) the bowstring should look solid, consisting of a single bundle of threads,
• 2) it should not stretch when firing,
• 3) you must be able (of sufficient length) to twist the string by 5-7 turns,
• 4) "Flemish" must be twisted during manufacture.

Bowstring twist is carried out in such a way that, when released, it is additionally twisted (for right-handers - clockwise, for left-handers - against), this should be taken into account when winding the saddle with a thread, so that it lasts longer.

Bowstring length depends on the type of onion and is always indicated by the manufacturer. In this case, the working base (distance from the handle to the bowstring) of a classic bow is 20.5-23 cm, and for a traditional bow it can be even less, depending on the bow, and the exact value is selected by each archer independently, taking into account personal preferences, features techniques and manufacturer's recommendations.

Onion base- the optimal distance from the handle to the bowstring, which ensures the correct operation of the bow as a whole. Too large or too small a base will prevent the shoulders of the bow from working properly and will shorten its lifespan. To measure the base of the bow, a special tool is used - a bow ruler.

Number of threads in the bowstring is also chosen individually, but it should be borne in mind that you should not take too thin a bowstring. The thickness of the bowstring depends primarily on the power of the bow and on the material from which the bowstring is made. The most common sizes are 12 (up to approximately 28 lbs for FAST FLIGHT), 14 (30-38 lbs) and 16 (40-48 lbs) threads. A thinner bowstring will increase the speed of departure, but there are also disadvantages: 1) the wear of the bow will increase, 2) the wear of the bowstring will increase.

A bow ruler is also used to fit the saddle. From it we determine the correct place on the center winding to install the saddle. For example, for a classic bow, the saddle is set 3-5mm above the perpendicular to the ledge.

The saddle can be positioned in two ways:

• The first - a metal ring ("mark") is installed above the boom. In some cases, two limit rings are placed (both below and above). To install the rings, a special tool is required (crimp). This is the fastest method, however, the rings cannot be pinched perfectly evenly and the resulting joint can scratch fingers, a glove or a fingertip.


• The second method does not take much more time, but the result is stronger and you will not damage yourself or your equipment. This method - winding the "nest" for the arrow with thread, which must be glued. Also, thread rewinding should be used in the case of a thin central winding of the bowstring, so that the shank is tightly fixed on the bowstring and in no case travels along it. With this method, first, winding under the shank is carried out to thicken the winding of the bowstring, then the lower limiter is wound, which must be glued tightly, after which the arrow is installed and the distance under the upper limiter is measured along the width of the shank.

During the shot, the bowstring receives significant tension and tear pressure, therefore one of the conditions imposed on it is its ability to withstand a large number of shots, i.e. have durability, "vitality". In addition, the string should be light and of little stretch.

For the manufacture of bowstrings, threads are used: lavsan, dacron, kevlar, deinema and other synthetic fiber threads.

In this case, you must have a simple device.

As you can see from the figure, it consists of a wooden plank, in which on one side there is a slot and a movable threaded rod that allows you to install and fix it in various places, at the other end of the plank on the axis there is a V-shaped piece made of plywood or wood with a thickness of about 10 mm. At the ends of the part, two rods are permanently fixed. The V-piece is fixed in two positions. The first position is shown in Fig. 58, in the second position, the two rods are in line with the movable rod.

In the absence of such or a similar device, the winding of the bowstring can be carried out between two nails driven in at the required distance along the length of the bowstring. The thread is wrapped in a circular motion of the hand with a uniform tension on the thread. The number of threads depends on the strength of the bow and is determined from the table.

After the bowstring is wound, the safety winding of the loops and its middle is performed using the device shown in the figure.

The safety winding is made by twisted silk thread, nylon, nylon, cotton bobbin thread. The threads of the bowstring, wound on the rod, when the V-shaped plate is turned by 900, divide the bowstring in half and allow you to wrap the middle of the loop. Some athletes wrap it twice. When making a bowstring from Kevlar threads, it is necessary to strengthen the loop, either by making an additional lining of threads and weaving them into the bowstring, or by doubling their number in the loop. After wrapping the middle of the loop, the V-plate is rotated to its original position and the end of the bowstring is wrapped.

The length of the safety loop should be 13-16 cm, so that when fired, the threads without the winding do not lie on the bend of the bow shoulder and do not break.

In this way, the second loop is also wrapped. In this case, it is necessary to accurately maintain the middle of the winding. The bowstring worn on the bow should not have sagging threads, their presence indicates poor-quality bowstring production. This usually happens if the windings are not produced with the same tension.

The safety winding in the middle of the bowstring is made at the moment when it is put on the bow. The strings of a bowstring without a winding should not touch the guard or handstand when the bowstring moves. The safety winding should not be too tight: this will significantly lengthen the life of the bowstring.

To protect the string from moisture, rub it lightly with beeswax. Rub the wax carefully so that the bowstrings do not break or deform. It must be remembered that the lubricant increases the weight of the bowstring and leads to a decrease in the flight speed of the arrow, therefore it must be lubricated with a small amount of wax. Special lubricants have proven themselves well.

The threads from which the bowstring is made, under the condition created by the work of the shoulders, are lengthened (from lavsan or dacron by 2-3% from Kevlar by 0.8%). In this regard, when making a bowstring from Kevlar, it is recommended to make it 30-40 mm longer than from lavsan and dacron.

The place for the nest should be located at a distance of 3-6 mm from the perpendicular, towards the upper shoulder, but it can be higher or lower - this depends on the shape of the flexion of the shoulders.

Determination of the value (B) is carried out using a special ruler.

A is the distance to the stop on the bow, B is the distance to the socket, C is the distance to the fixator.

The ruler with one end is put on the bowstring with clamps, with the other it lies on the shelf for the arrow and the middle of the nest is marked with a pencil (taking into account the diameter of the arrow).

The socket should be installed so that the boom shank does not sit tight on the string. The ideal fit is one where the socket can only support the weight of the arrow hanging from the string. A tight fit of the shank on the bowstring can impair the flight of the arrow and reduce its speed.

The socket is limited by a thickening on both sides and this leads to the fact that it becomes possible to compress the shank when the bow is stretched, therefore a small gap of up to 0.2-0.4 mm is required.

Installing Boom Restraints

An overly wide socket will increase the vertical spread of the arrows. Many athletes limit the nest on the bowstring with a thickening only on one side - on top of the arrow. In this case, the arrow is not clamped between the thickenings on the bowstring, but is secured only with a finger from below.

The ruler, which serves to mark the position of the socket on the bowstring, is also used to measure the distance from the handle to the bowstring and to control this distance during firing.

Competition success may depend on the number of shot bowstrings available. Often the best bowstring breaks during shooting, and points are lost because of this. Therefore, it is necessary to have such spare bowstrings so that when replacing it is not necessary to change the installation of the sight.

Shooting practice involves replacing the bowstrings after 5,000-10,000 shots. Kevlar bowstrings last much less and can withstand about 2000-5000 shots. Shooting accuracy largely depends on the correct determination of the length of the bowstring, since the length of the bowstring affects the location of the point where the arrow leaves it.

If the length of the bowstring is unknown, then it is made according to the sizes recommended by the company, and is determined by the distance from the stop in the bow handle to the bowstring. This distance in sports bows ranges from 18-25 cm.

By twisting the bowstring, you can change its size until the accuracy of fire becomes satisfactory. The maximum number of turns for changing the length of the bowstring is 30. If more turns are required, then the bowstring is too long and a new one should be made.

The final bowstring adjustment is made after the series of shots has been fired. First, the height of the socket on the bowstring is set. To check the location of the nest, several shots are fired from a distance of 3-5 and 10 m to a point that should be at a height equal to the distance from the ground to the position of the arrow on the bow. The arrow must enter the shield horizontally, if it happens at an angle, then it is necessary to change the height of the socket on the bowstring.

With the correct length of the bowstring, the flight of the arrow is stable, without swaying and "vortex", does not cause the noise of the bowstring when it is released. After determining the length of the bowstring, its size is measured and several pieces are made. The distance from the bow handle to the bowstring is specified using a ruler. If, as a result of getting wet, changes in humidity or temperature, the bowstring changes its length, then it is necessary, by twisting it, to maintain the same dimensions

Arrow selection

In order to obtain high accuracy in shooting, constant and good accuracy, it is necessary to select the length of the arrow with great accuracy, depending on its diameter and the stiffness of the rod (tube). For beginner shooters, the selection of arrow lengths is carried out according to the following table.

After the shooter has worked out and mastered the elements of the shooting technique, picked up the bow based on his power capabilities, the length of the arrow can be specified. To do this, a deliberately long arrow is taken, the bow is pulled to the correct and comfortable position at rest (without releasing the bowstring) and then a pencil is made on the arrow tube as shown in Fig. 67 (the operation is performed several times). The mark should be made at the moment of full natural pulling of the bowstring, in front of the point where the arrow touches the shelf, at a distance of about 15 mm. For beginner shooters, this distance increases to 20-40 mm.

Boom rod (tube)

The boom rod is a tube made of high-strength light metal brands D16-T, B95, B96.

Plants in the Soviet Union produced the following sizes: outer diameter (mm: 8.0; 7.6; 7.2; 6.8 and 6.4; wall thickness, mm: 0.50; 0.45; 0.40 ; and 0.35, length 900-700 mm.

The American company Easton Aluminum (has been producing arrows since 1946) produces a tube under the name 24 SRT, XX75, X7 in various sizes with an outer diameter of 5.6 to 8.8 mm, a wall thickness of 0.33 to 0.51 mm, a length 974.4 mmx.

Each tube is labeled with its diameter, wall thickness and material name.

Tubes manufactured by Easton have the following markings:

the first two digits represent the outer diameter of the boom in 1/64 of an inch (0.4 mm).

The second two digits represent the tube wall thickness in thousandths of an inch (0.025 mm).

The arrow with the designation 1816 has a diameter of 18x0.4 = 7.2 mm and a wall thickness of 16x0.025 = 0.4 mm. By brands, imported arrows are divided into: elastic 24 SRT, high elasticity ХХ75 and the highest elasticity Х7. The tube grade XX75 corresponds to the tubes manufactured by our enterprises from alloy B95, and X7 corresponds to alloy B96.

Size, weight of shank tube, tip used by athletes for shooting

Shooting tube size tolerates deviation

• outside diameter ± 0.01 mm
• wall thickness ± 0.005 mm
• along the length ± 0.5 mm

The tube must be straightened, local curvature is not allowed.

The ovality and wall thickness of the tube should not exceed 0.005 mm. The outer and inner surfaces of the tube must be clean, free of pits, cracks, delamination, rough traces of broach and stains of corrosive origin.

In order to simplify the selection of arrows and as a result of many years of testing by the company "Easton" are selected pipes that are recommended.

The table gives the vertical pull in pounds (kg) and the horizontal boom length in inches (cm).

The force is determined by a dynamometer, and in its absence, by weights of different weights or according to passport data. Knowing the length of the arrow and the strength of the bow, you can determine the tube parameters from the table below.

Matching the pipe according to the strength of the bow

For shooters of the highest qualifications and specialists who are engaged in a more thorough adjustment of the material part of the archer, it is possible to recommend the selection of arrows based on the results of shooting sets of their different characteristics. For this purpose, it is advisable to have a shooting machine. Imported boom shooters can use the dimensions in the table to determine which boom brand is best for them.

Stiffness - the amount of deflection of the boom - is determined on a special device in millimeters or thousandths of an inch (Spain).

With a certain amount of bow strength and tension, a certain deflection of the arrow is optimal. But the same deflection can be in a number of standard sizes of the tube. While all of these tubes will work fine for a given bow, they will vary in weight, wall thickness, and outside diameter.

The main considerations when choosing a tube is for the arrow to fly well for a particular bow, and only then they choose whether to be light or heavy, durable or not.

Tables of converting sizes from inch to metric used in archery

• 1 lb = 462 g
• 1 lb = 16.2 oz
• 1 ounce = 28 g or 437.5 grains
• 1 inch = 25.4 mm

Converting the dimensions of the pulling force of bows from pounds to kilograms (15x0.462 = 6.93)

Conversion of boom length dimensions from inches to centimeters (20x2.54 = 50.8)

Boom diameter according to table Boom wall thickness according to table

Plumage. Manufacturing and gluing

The quality of the arrow and its behavior during flight largely depends on the plumage. As we said earlier, a correctly selected and precisely fixed plumage determines the stability of the arrow's flight, the accuracy of hitting the target and significantly affects the result of shooting.

The plumage is subdivided: according to the material of manufacture, the shape of the plumage, the size and number of feathers mounted on the arrow and the type of sticker.

In terms of material, the plumage can be from bird feathers, hard plastic, synthetic or similar material.

Making plumage from a bird feather

Two or three plumages can be cut from one bird feather (depending on its length). The plumage length ranges from 5.0 to 9.0 cm. The best feathers for an arrow are turkey feathers.

The feather is cut with scissors along the trunk, and then pieces of the specified size are cut from it. For feathering, the best part of the feather should be used, closer to the base of the trunk. Feathers can be painted in the desired colors before gluing.

The plumage cut with scissors has an uneven trunk, which must be processed so that it can be glued to the arrow. The processing of the tail of the tail is carried out either on an emery wheel (when it rotates), grinding the core of the barrel, or by grinding with sandpaper. The latter method is simpler and more error-free. Grinding is done like this: the plumage is compressed between two metal plates with a thickness of about 0.5-0.7 mm. The part of the feather barrel remaining outside is sanded on an emery cloth, which is located on a flat board. Since the plates are held perpendicular to the board, after grinding, the tail end will be pressed against the arrow evenly. Grinding of the lateral faces of the tail rod is also carried out.

The empennage made in this way is glued to the boom. The selection and sticker of the plumage on one set of arrows must be made from the feathers of the wing of the same name.

Improperly glued fins (for example, taken from different wings) can lead to differences in the flight of the arrow compared to other arrows.

The feathers glued to the arrows are fired with a red-hot wire to give them a certain shape, for which a special machine is used.

Currently, archers use plumage purchased from various firms, which are of high quality for any arrows and various types of shooting.

Synthetic plumage

Synthetic feathers are available in various colors, shapes and sizes, sometimes the material is painted in glowing paints, this makes it easier for shooters to complete their arrows.

Domestic enterprises and various firms produce plumage in size mainly from 45 to 85 mm.

Depending on the strength of the bow and the size of the arrow, it is recommended to use a tail of the size indicated in the table for sticking on the tube.

Plumage selection table by feather size (P-mm)

P - pen size in mm.

Plumage gluing

The plumage is glued using special devices.

Bonding procedure:

• plumage is purchased in size according to the table
• shanks are glued to the rod (tube) (for the method of gluing, see below);
• the tube at the place where the feathers are glued is degreased and inserted into the device. The pen is clamped with two plates, smeared with glue and pressed against the tube;
• after drying, the tube is turned 90 or 120 degrees;
• the second, and then the third feather is glued;
• after gluing the feathers, the arrow is freed from the device and the ends of the feathers are sealed with a drop of glue;

For productive work, it is desirable to have three fixtures for sticking plumage. Adhesives "Moment", "Mekl", "Super-moment" are used for plumage stickers.

Arrow tail sticker: diameter of installed arrows is 6.4-8 mm, fixed angle of rotation is 120 or 90 degrees.

Some athletes prefer to use curled feather plumage. Such plumage is made from a very thin and light film weighing less than 1 g.

The external curvature of the feather provides soft flight and moderate rotation as the boom propels through the air. Curled feathers also provide less lateral wind drift on the boom compared to flat feathers. An ultra-finely curled nib runs softer around the ledge, reducing the likelihood of the nib breaking or tearing off.

The nib is attached to the boom with duct tape, making it quick to equip booms and easy to repair. Before gluing the plumage, it is necessary to degrease the boom tube with acetone or solvent and dry it well, then you need to outline three reference lines at 120 degrees from one another. In this case, use a device for sticking straight pens.

Adhesive tape is sold complete with plumage. It is pre-cut along the length of the plumage with a width of 3 mm. The protective protector is removed from it and all three strips are glued to the tube along the reference line that was previously drawn. Then, the upper tread layer is removed from the tape and, starting from the tail, the edge of the feather is pressed against the edge of the reference line. Then press the entire pen in contact with the glue layer.

Remove excess glue strip and apply a drop of glue to the front and back ends of the nib.

The arrow can be used after 5 minutes. after processing feathers.

The shank is installed after the tail is glued.

The bevel angle of the feather is 20? should be used when shooting, both indoors and outdoors. If the feathers depress the plunger and the rear end of the boom wobbles in flight, the bevel angle should be reduced.

Shank and its installation

The rear end of the tube should have a cone for fitting the shank onto it. The cone angle is 23 degrees and is located in the center of the tube, beating of the cone relative to the tube surface (tube axis) is not allowed.

The shank diameter must match the diameter of the boom.

Shanks are available in a variety of colors. This allows shooters to match their arrows with a single color and make it easier to distinguish between them when shooting. The table shows the boom shank size.

It is not difficult to install the shank correctly. If the tube is new, the shank is simply glued; if the old one is removed, then the cone of the tube is carefully cleaned with a fine sandpaper from old glue and small notches. Carefully inject one drop of "Moment-second" glue or the like onto the cone of the tube, making sure that the glue is evenly distributed over it, then rotate the shank into the cone of the tube. Until the glue has dried, you should make several turns, carefully rub in the excess glue, leaving a thinnest film.

While continuing to rotate the shank, press down firmly but gently until it sits deeply in place and the shank cut is set at the correct angle to the fins.

A properly aligned liner to the tube is essential for boom quality.

If the shank is hatched with an error of about a tenth of a millimeter, then this gives an arrow drift of about 12 cm at a distance of 50 m.

Checking the shank installation

To check the alignment of the shank and tube, the following methods can be recommended:

1. The arrow is installed on the nails of two fingers of the hand, and then blows onto the plumage, the arrow begins to rotate, at this moment it is necessary to monitor the rotation of the shank. Correctly installed shank will not produce elliptical "runout".
2. The arrow is placed on the table, rolled back and forth, "beats" should not be observed.
3. Various fixtures with an indicator, etc. are also used. If the shank is installed incorrectly, it is necessary to put it back in "place" and check the accuracy of the installation again. If again it is not accurate, then you should replace the shank and repeat all operations from the beginning. Most of the adhesives used to bond a shank to a tube taper soften the base of the shank, so let it dry well.
4. Checking on the fixture

Shooting ranges

• The archery area must be specially equipped and have one shooting line. In front of the firing line perpendicular to it, targets (shields) are set at a distance of 18, 25, 30, 50, 60, 70, and 90 meters.
• On the right and left of the site, safety zones are measured, and at least 25 m must be provided behind the target line. Free space or a fence or shaft must be installed.
• A distance of 5 m is measured back from the firing line. Parallel to the firing line - forming a waiting area.
• In the open air, shooting is carried out in the direction of the north.
• The dimensions of the backboards on which the targets are attached must be more than 122 cm in any direction.
• The center of the target is set in such a way that the base of the perpendicular, lowered from the center of the target, is on the line of the targets, at a height of 130 cm. The shields are installed with an inclination of 15 degrees from the shooter.

Safety engineering

• Archery can be carried out only in specially designated and equipped places with a fence.
• The site is limited by safety zones from the sides at least 10 m., 25 m behind the backboards.
• Shooting at different distances must be carried out from one common firing line.
• You can put an arrow on the bowstring when the target zone and the space in front of them are free.
• Stretching the bow and arrow is only allowed from the firing line and in the direction of the target.
• With an extended bow, it is forbidden to talk or turn to the side, hail or touch the shooter aiming at the target.
• Athletes are allowed to approach the targets only at the signal of the head
• It is forbidden to shoot into the air, upwards.
• The shooter is responsible for any event that occurs as a result of his violation of safety rules.

Target

The dimensions of the targets and the distance at which the shooting is carried out.