So, you became the owner of quality compound onion, spectacular in appearance and effective (judging by the factory technical specifications). Are you ready to go with him to field trials, are you in a great mood, anticipating the pleasure of marksmanship, the ringing of the bowstring, the feeling of something primitive and sublime? Should upset you a little. Don't rush to the forest or the range, your bow still needs to be tuned! Otherwise, you are guaranteed difficulties with stretching, oblique outbursts of arrows, incorrect orientation of the sight, too tight a bowstring tension, and so on. It is easy to break an expensive arrow when firing from an unconfigured compound. But troubles can be easily avoided if you carefully follow the recommendations outlined in this article.

First of all, study the components of your compound in order to navigate well in the recommendations, to speak competently and correctly: shelf, loop, pip-site, stabilizer, eccentric, etc., and not "that crap that sticks out on the side."

The standard compound bow consists of a handle with a stop for the shooter's hand, shoulders (the shoulders are attached to the handle), shoulder pockets, eccentrics (two or one, depending on the model), a system of cables and a working string. This is a "pure" bow, without body kit. Next, a sight, shelf, stabilizer, pip-site, sling, shako (or quiver) is installed on the bow. On the bowstring itself, a loop is tied to capture the bowstring with a release (we will talk about tying the loop a little later).

For a beginner, the starting use of a bow with powerful shoulders is unacceptable, since when mastering archery on tight shoulders, all the shooter's attention goes not to the correct stance and the execution of all phases of the shot "according to the textbook", but to stretching the bow and holding the tension. In addition, shooting without a habit from a powerful bow leads to a rapid onset of pain in the joints of the right shoulder (in right-handers, respectively - in the joints of the left shoulder in left-handers). Beginners should shoot a bow with weakened shoulders and increase the tension as they master the weapon.

The bow tension is changed with the adjusting screws at the base of the shoulders. Manufacturers usually indicate the maximum number of screw turns by which the adjusting screws can be loosened (loosened by a larger value, you can damage the bow). For correct adjustment, tighten the tension screws to the limit and then loosen the screws counterclockwise.
Remember: the number of turns of the screws (in the weakening or tightening direction) for the upper and lower arm must be the same.

After adjusting the force of the shoulders, you should check the evenness of the distance between the shoulders and the bowstring. This procedure is performed using a special ruler, but you can use the usual one. If your bow is equipped with two eccentrics, then you should check the distance from the bowstring to the shoulder pocket. If the distance is not the same, you should adjust it with the screw on the shoulder pockets so that the distance is the same. If you have a bow with one and a half eccentrics, adjust the distance in the same way.

If your bow has one eccentric and a simple wheel (on the other side), the shoulder distance is more difficult to adjust. Since the eccentric is much larger in size than the wheel, the bowstring of such a bow is asymmetric. To check the correctness of the distance, a thread is pulled from one axis on the shoulders to the other and the distance is measured along it. It should be the same, since the shoulders are equal in size to each other.

After the adjustments have been made, place the shelf on the bow. Since the shelf works for the "correct" shot only for the first 10-15 cm of movement of the arrow along it, and then it simply interferes (with the arrow), the shelves themselves are not rigidly fixed. The shelves are movable, they can be spring-loaded, mechanically retractable or by another method (depending on the model and type of bow).

The choice of shelf depends on the type of shooting you want to shoot: recreational shooting, hunting, sports. Therefore, the choice of the type and model of this device should be approached carefully.

The simplest popular shelves are models with a standing tendril made of aluminum. They are often used by beginners.

More experienced archers place falling shelves on their weapons. Falling shelves maximally relieve the arrow from unwanted contact with the shelf, that is, minimally knocking the arrow off the correctly selected course.

If you are planning to hunt, it is best for you to install a special hunting shelf with bristles. With such a device, you can successfully shoot in the dark, in windy weather, accurately shoot down. Of course, such a shelf is only good for hunting in the forest. In a shooting gallery, she loses to shelves with mustaches and falling models. Consider installing a falling shelf.

To correctly adjust the position of the shelf, first screw it onto the bow, following the manufacturer's recommendations. Next, bring it to the working position by lifting it with your finger up to the stop and securing it with a hexagon (a special hole is provided for this). In this case, we can observe in what position the arrow will be located on the shelf when the bow is fully extended. Checking the correct installation of the shelf is made by observing from the side of the bowstring on the bow and checking the alignment of the bowstring with the handle and the bowstring with the shelf. If there is no alignment, adjustments must be made. In the case of using a shelf with antennae, the platform simply corrects itself to the required position.

To adjust the shelf, unscrew the locking screw (hexagon) by 2-3 turns and screw the support roller clockwise. Carry out the adjustment until the shelf enters the plane. The final check is the control of the position of the arrow according to the projection of the bowstring. If the arrow is positioned correctly, you can tighten the screw and start attaching the lace that brings the shelf to its working position when pulling the bowstring. The lace is usually included with the shelf.

The end of the cord is rolled up with a loop, placed on the recess (around the mounting hole) and clamped with a screw. To avoid unraveling, the edge of the cord should be melted with an open fire (lighter, matches). The other end of the cord is tied to the lower cable. To do this, the cord is threaded between the strands of the cable.

After the performed manipulations, a "nest" (or "saddle") is wound - a place on the bowstring where the arrow shank will be inserted. Often the bowstring comes with a metal mark in place of the “saddle”. It is best to remove it immediately and wind the “saddle” with cotton threads. The length of the "saddle" is 1-1.5 cm. The point from which to start winding is measured with a ruler. The opposite end of the ruler must lie exactly on the surface of the installed shelf (in working position). For bows with one eccentric, the “saddle” is 20-25 mm higher than the perpendicular, for models with two eccentrics - 5-10 mm higher.

The next step is to make a release loop. The release loop is currently just a recommended necessity, almost no one shoots with fingers from the compound. It is recommended to use materials for the hinge that include Fast Flite, Dyneema, etc. However, many archers use cheap nylon cords with great success.

To install the loop, cut off a piece of cord about 11.5 cm long. Singe the ends of the cord. The correct method for tying the buttonhole is shown in detail in the pictures. After the loop has been formed, it must be tightened well. This must be done so that the knots of the loop do not come loose, and so that it (loop) does not scroll on the string. The loop is tightened with a special tool, although this procedure can be performed using pliers.

The next step is to install the pip site. A pip-site is a small device inserted between the strings of a bowstring. With its help, it is possible to maintain a constant position of the head (and, therefore, aiming), in which the gaze at the front sight will fall strictly along one trajectory, through the hole of the pip-site.

You will need an assistant to determine where to install the pip site. It is necessary with closed eyes to smoothly stretch the bow, attaching the release to the cheekbone at the finish. Then open your eyes and ask the assistant to mark the point on the bowstring with a marker on which the gaze falls in the plane with the right eye. After that, at the marked place, the strings are pulled apart and a pip-site is inserted. From above and below, this place is fixed by winding threads. It is recommended to use nylon threads. The ends of the threads must be singed. After installing the pip-site, we check if the front sight is clearly visible through the hole. If the pip-site does not turn completely, you should throw several strings of the string from one side to the other, than change the angle of the pip-site relative to the plane of view of the right eye.

Finally, check the stretch of the bow again according to the release used. Releases are T-shaped and wrist. Carpals are more often used for hunting. With the hand release, the bow stretch is slightly shorter than with the T-shaped release. This should be taken into account. Correct stretching is a position in which the hand with the release is firmly pressed against the lower jaw, the bowstring touches the nose, and the right eye clearly sees the front sight through the opening of the pip-site. At the same time, when aiming, the front sight is located strictly in the middle of the hole of the pip-site.

If everything is adjusted correctly, then your bow is almost ready for use. You just need to check the reach of the arrow from the shelf and aim the sight. The departure check is done at a distance of 3 meters from the shield. It is best to use a paper test to check the departure. To do this, a paper sheet is fixed directly in front of the shield (at a distance of 1 meter). A shot through the sheet will show whether the arrow clings to the ledge or flies straight. This is determined by the cuts of the arrow feathers. If the arrow leaves three perfect slots coming out of one point (archers call such a cut a Mercedes), then the shelf is adjusted correctly. If the falling ledge is incorrectly adjusted, then it is corrected towards the departure of the arrow tail.

Having received a Mercedes on a sheet of paper, proceed to zeroing in the sight. To do this, start shooting at the shield from a distance of 5-6 meters and gradually retreat to a greater distance (with a distance of the same 5-6 meters at a time), constantly shooting arrows at the shield and making sure that the sight is adjusted accurately. If the arrows fly higher, then the sight needs to be adjusted up, if lower - down. Accordingly, if the arrows fall to the right, then the sight is also right to the right, to the left - to the left.

Your bow is now ready for use. Shoot, have fun, improve. Remember to check the condition of the cables, bowstrings and release loops. The amount of wear on these parts of the bow depends on the frequency of use. To avoid any unpleasant surprises, just check the condition of the cables, bowstrings and loops more often.

The order of the instructor's actions (on the example of the client - right-handed):

1) The instructor gives the bow to the client. The client must hold the bow in a half-extended left hand;

2) The instructor puts the arrow in the bowstring. Fixes the arrow with a shank in the "thread pocket" (see above for how to make a pocket);

3) The instructor puts the arrow on the shelf;

4) The instructor shows the client how to hold the bowstring at the time of the shot (the arrow in the bowstring should be between the index and middle finger of the right hand. strive to squeeze the arrow between the fingers. Also the main mistake of the client is to try to pull the string with the thumb and forefinger - "like in childhood." Such attempts must immediately prick and force the client to stretch the string as mentioned above, otherwise the shot may be unsafe);

5) When the fingers are correctly on the string, the instructor asks the client to stretch the bow. The bow stretches 3/4 (even 2/3) of the arrow's length (for safety reasons, the arrow should not fly at high speed). In this case, the client's left arm should be extended straight.

6) At the moment of stretching the bow, the instructor says how to aim and where. You can make an improvised sight with your own hands. Enough at a distance of 10cm. from the shelf of the bow, pull the handle of the bow with red tape. If you move an imaginary line from the indicated red line to the center of the target, you will get an accurate shot at a distance of 10 meters. Say that you cannot aim with an arrow at the center of the target, because the arrow will fly much higher. For archery at a distance of 10 meters, it is better to use a target with a diameter of 60 cm. Such a target is attached to an isolon block 1 m by 1 m. Read a special article on how to make the right arrow catcher for shooting at a shooting range.

At the moment of pulling the bowstring, the arrow may fly off the shelf. The instructor adjusts the boom himself. And he tells the client that he (the client) should not correct her. Otherwise, time is wasted, the client will become confused and the shooting process will be intermittent, which may affect safety.

7) The instructor must ensure that the arrow is directed to the center of the target, only then can the client be told to shoot. The instructor's left hand during the entire shooting process should slightly hold the bow handle. In case of inadequate aiming, the instructor himself adjusts the bow to the desired position. The instructor can achieve this by mentally assessing the trajectory of the arrow, be sure to correlate it with the tension of the bowstring.

8) The instructor should not allow the client to hold the bow for a long time in a taut position. The hand gets tired and the client can shoot unpredictably.

9) The instructor tells the client how to release the bowstring correctly. The client should not jerk at the moment the arrow is released with his right hand in the hope of tightening the bow even more. The arrow is released by simply unclenching the phalanxes of the fingers of the right hand. The hand and wrist of the right hand at this moment must be motionless, otherwise the arrow will fly out unpredictably.

Archery training... The archery section of our website contains information about almost all well-known archery clubs and sections in Moscow and Russia. If you have information about the existence of a section (club), which is not in the list, you can add it. Choose a suitable archery spot for you. In most of the sections, archery classes for children are free. Sets of children and adults to the section usually take place at the beginning school year(September), but most coaches continue hiring newbies throughout the year. In sports schools, as a rule, beginners are given a bow for beginners, arrows and the necessary equipment. In extreme cases, you can buy a bow for shooting in numerous online stores selling bows, crossbows and related products. The cost of a bow for a beginner is about 3 thousand rubles. Join us. Just one warning: Archery is a very addictive sport, it can be delayed, and for a long time ;-)

NEWS section in the world of archery. This section constantly publishes news about shooting sports, the opening of new sections or clubs, competitions, archery tournaments, changes in competition rules, interviews of coaches and sportsmen-archers and much more. You can publish your announcement (article, news) about the upcoming (or past) competition, tournament, other event. Please indicate the coordinates of the organizers, the date of the event, the place, etc.

Archery training... The archery section of our website contains information about almost all well-known archery clubs and sections in Moscow and Russia. If you have information about the existence of a section (club), which is not in the list, you can add it. Choose a suitable archery spot for you. In most of the sections, archery classes for children are free. The recruitment of children and adults to the section usually takes place at the beginning of the school year (September), but most coaches continue to accept newcomers throughout the year. In sports schools, as a rule, beginners are given a bow for beginners, arrows and the necessary equipment. In extreme cases, you can buy a bow for shooting in numerous online stores selling bows, crossbows and related products. The cost of a bow for a beginner is about 3 thousand rubles. Join us. Just one warning: Archery is a very addictive sport, it can be delayed, and for a long time ;-)

NEWS section in the world of archery. This section constantly publishes news about shooting sports, the opening of new sections or clubs, competitions, archery tournaments, changes in competition rules, interviews of coaches and sportsmen-archers and much more. You can publish your announcement (article, news) about the upcoming (or past) competition, tournament, other event. Please indicate the coordinates of the organizers, the date of the event, the place, etc.

2 Bow and Arrow Tuning Guide

Find the centers of the shoulders

In order to determine the control point from which the horizontal position of the arrow on the bow will be adjusted, it is necessary to find and accurately mark the center of the shoulders on the recurve bow or what is called

"Proportional center of the shoulders" on the block bow.

Recurve bows

To find the center of the shoulder on the recurve bow, tape a piece of tape all the way down the inside of each shoulder, a few inches from the handle. Use a thin marker to make

a vertical mark exactly in the center of each shoulder.

Compound bows

To find the proportional center of the shoulder to preset your compound bow, place a piece of tape across the entire width of the inner surface of each shoulder, a few inches from the handle. Measure your shoulder width accurately (using a ruler) and make a very small mark exactly in the center of each shoulder. Then measure out 3/16 "(4.8

mm) to the left of this mark (for right-handed people) and make a larger vertical mark. (Lefties place the larger mark 3/16 "(4.8 mm.) To the right of the center

mark.) This second mark will be used to center the boom. (See Fig. 2.) This procedure is done to compensate for the amount of displacement of the wheel or block eccentric from the real center of the shoulder. 3/16 "(4.8mm) is the average offset for most compound bows and does not need to be accurately measured during the preset step because you will find the true proportional center of the shoulder when making fine adjustments.

Boom centering

The purpose of centering the arrow is to position it at the "theoretical" or "proportional" center of the bow arm. In reality, there are two points of the arrow,

which should be in the center of the bow in direct relation to the target. Throwing the bowstring with your fingers creates a horizontal bend in the arrow. Mechanical release of the bowstring, on the other hand, entails vertical bending of the arrow. As a consequence, boom locations must be different for each release type.

The settings for these positions are described below.

Adjusting the horizontal position of the boom

The horizontal plunger or shelf adjustment is done so that the boom head (center) is correctly positioned for the type of equipment you are using.

Finger Release (RP, BP)

Extend the arrowhead 1/16 "- 1/8" (1.6 - 3.2 mm.) Or less outward from the bowstring,

correctly centered according to Fig. 7. The arrowhead is positioned slightly outward of the bowstring to compensate for the stroke length of the plunger or "tendril" of the ledge when the boom is fired. See Fig. 4.

With finger release, the boom bends horizontally

but, first in the direction of the bow, then in the opposite direction, which leads to the descent of the arrow from the shelf. V

The next bending sequence separates the boom shank from the bowstring. Further the arrow flies,

swing freely all the way to the target. As the arrow moves away from the bow, the amount of oscillation decreases.

Mechanical release (BR)

Align the tip to the exact center of the bowstring.

See Fig. 5. The axis of the boom must be in a straight line with the bowstring aligned with the

proportional to the center of the shoulders. See fig. 7.

When the release is used, the boom bends more vertically than horizontally. Therefore, it is not necessary to compensate for the compression of the shelf or plunger. For,

to determine the best boom position,

to allow the intersection points to be in a straight line with the target, follow the instructions in the section on fine and micro adjustments on pages 12-14.

The diagram in Fig. 7 shows the correct boom position for your type of shooting.

Rice. 7 - Centering the boom

Shelf setting

(recurve and compound bow)

Critical for good boom clearance

is the correct position of the shelf lever.

Finger Release (RP, BP)

Most shelf adjustments are achieved by adjusting the boom support arm.

If this adjustment is possible on the shelf you are using, the lever should be adjusted so that it does not protrude beyond the boom when viewed from above. See fig. eight.

Mechanical release (CR)

On the launcher type shelves commonly used on mechanical release block bows, make sure the launcher is

narrow enough so that the two lower empennages pass through the ledge without touching anything. See fig. 9. This is very important for archers using a mechanical release, because the arrow is supported by a ledge all the way forward. For thinner composite aluminum / carbon and carbon tubes with less spacing between the two tails, it is necessary to significantly reduce the width of the launcher blade.

Shelf - top view (RP, BP)

Correct position Incorrect position (protrudes too far)

Shelf - rear view. Plumage clearance (BP)

4 Bow and Arrow Tuning Guide

Setting up external components (BR)

If you are using carbon tubing with shanks that slide over the tube, you must lift the socket slightly so that the shank does not touch the shelf. The shank diameter on these booms is much larger than the tube diameter. A slightly raised nest raises the boom above the shelf and does not allow

touch it, which solves the clearance problem.

Clickers attached to the handle (RP, BP)

For clicker shooters, you need to make sure the arrow is well supported on the ledge and does not move just by being held by the clicker. It is important to pull the bow several times without a clicker to make sure that the arrow moves and rests on the ledge without lateral displacement and even less falling off it.

Aligning the front sight

First, set the front sight of your scope exactly along the boom axis.

Installing the plunger

The plunger is not always used. Some archers only use the shelf, no plunger. For example,

many athletes use a spring shelf

Springy rest, and some traditionalists use other types of shelves that do not have side pressure settings. If your plunger allows it, set the spring rate to the middle position.

Installing the base of the bow

(recursive bows)

will increase the base of the bow.

64 "8 1/4" - 81/2 "(21.0 cm - 21.6 cm) 66" 83/8 "- 85/8" (21.3 cm - 21.9 cm) 68 "81/2" - 83/4 "(21.6 cm - 22.2 cm)

70 "8 5/8" - 87/8 "(21.7 cm - 22.5 cm)

All bows are different, even the same model. Therefore, it is important to find a bow base that suits your particular bow and type of shooting. Shoot a few arrows with a minimum base, then remove the string from the bow,

twist it 3-4 turns and shoot again.

Continue this process until you feel the bow is softest and quietest when shooting.

If the string is too short for a minimum base, try a slightly longer string.

If the string is too long to set the bow to its maximum base (and starts to twist into knots from a lot of turns), try a slightly shorter string. There are many

bowstring drivers who can make a bowstring

exactly to your specifications, including length, type of material, type and color of windings, etc.

The base of the bow indicates the point at which the arrow is separated from the bowstring, as well as the amount of deflection of the arrow at the time of separation. The best base for your recurve or compound bow is the one that best matches the position from which the arrow is fired at the end of the stroke. Determining the best base for your bow can greatly improve your accuracy and uniformity.

Installing the base of the bow

(compound bows)

The base of the bow is set by the manufacturer.

Sometimes changing the base of the bow up or down will improve arrow flight and accuracy. This can be achieved by changing the length of the bowstring, as described for recurve bows. Remember, however, that changing the base of a block

the bow affects the length and tension of the bow.

The force with which the shank is held on the string

The amount of force required to separate the shank from the bowstring is a very critical parameter, especially for low tension bows (30 pounds or less). The shank must sit tight enough on the string to support the weight of the arrow hanging vertically on the string (the shank is in the socket). To test this, hang the arrow on the bowstring by the shank and flick your finger sharply on the bowstring 1-2 "(2.5-5cm) from the shank. The arrow should separate from the bowstring. If this does not happen, the shank may be too tight to fire. For hunting applications, a slightly tighter shank fit on the bowstring is preferable.

STANDARD SETUP METHODS

Now that you have completed the preliminary adjustments, you can begin the tuning process.

There are 4 tuning methods described (pages 4 to 14): zero boom zeroing, paper test, short range tuning, and broadhead tuning.

Zero firing

arrows (Finger release - RP, BP)

Zeroing with non-leveled booms is useful in determining if the correct boom tubes are selected. If the horizontal oscillation setting of the boom described in the Horizontal Oscillation section does not help to achieve the accuracy of the non-feathered arrows as close to the feathered ones as possible, then a stiffer or softer tube should be chosen (depending on where the arrows hit). Arrows that do not fly well and do not collect well are usually subject to the following

problems:

This gap indicates an underestimated socket position. To fix it,

raise jack 1/16 "(1.6 mm.)

Repeat the procedure until the bottom vertical break no longer appears.

This gap indicates an over-positioned socket, a clearance problem, or a soft boom if you are using a mechanical release. To fix it,

lower the jack 1/16 "(1.6 mm) at a time,

until the top break stops appearing. If,

after you have moved the socket a few times,

the problem persists, this could mean insufficient ground clearance or a boom that is too soft

(if a mechanical release is used). To determine the clearance problem, check to see if the feathers are touching the shelf. (See "Clearance" on page 5)

BR - If there is no clearance problem and you are using a mechanical release try:

1. More flexible shelf blade if using launcher type shelves, or loosen the rigidity of the launcher.

2. Reduce the peak pulling force of the bow if

if the arrow is too soft.

3. Increase the length of the boom section protruding beyond the ledge.

4. Choose stiffer tubes.

This gap indicates a hard arrow for right-handed archers using a finger release (RP, BP). And vice versa for left-handed archers with a finger release. This is an unusual gap for right-handed blockers using

mechanical release (BR). However, it does happen

and most often means that the shelf is too far to the right or possible contact of the feathers with the inner side of the launcher.

Finger release (RP, BP):

1. Increase the bow tension / peak tension.

2. Use a heavier handpiece and / or

3. Use a lighter string (fewer threads or lighter material such as fast flight).

4. Use a softer arrow.

5. Decrease the plunger spring or use a softer spring on the shelf.

6. For PSU only - slide the shelf slightly towards the bow.

Mechanical release (BR):

1. Slide the shelf to the left. Continue to gradually move the ledge to the left until the right gap no longer appears.

2. Make sure the boom does not touch the drop and cables.

3. Make sure the hand holding the bow is relaxed,

which will avoid unnecessary jitter.

This gap indicates a soft arrow or clearance issue for archers-

right-handed with finger release (RP, BP).

For lefties, the opposite is true. For blockers-

Right-handers using a mechanical release (BR), a left tear is common and usually indicates soft boom and / or a clearance problem.

If an upper left break appears (see the following illustration), make sure you have the slot correctly aligned before starting further testing on paper.

Finger release (RP, BP):

1. Check the ground clearance (see page 5).

2. Decrease bow tension / peak tension.

3. Use a lighter tip and / or insert.

4. Use a heavier string (more string or heavier material).

5. Use a harder arrow.

6. Increase the plunger stiffness or use a stiffer spring on the shelf.

7. For PSU only - slide the shelf outward a little, in

side of the bow.

Mechanical release (BR):

1. Slide the shelf to the right. Continue to gradually move the ledge to the right until the left gap no longer appears.

2. Make sure the hand holding the bow is extended.

weak to avoid excessive shaking.

3. Decrease the peak tension of the bow.

4. Choose stiffer arrows.

This gap indicates several violations of the arrow's flight at once. Use paper test procedures and combine

by cutting vertical breaks (socket position) and then horizontal breaks. If you are unable to make adjustments (especially the slot position) and are unable to correct the top / bottom tears in the paper, contact your local service shop to check the timing.

eccentrics or blocks on your bow.

For archers using a mechanical release, in some cases it may be necessary to apply the opposite setting as described. The type of shelf and release used, in a particular combination, can influence the boom's bending dynamics, resulting in tears on the paper that indicate the opposite of the problems described here (although not often).

When you get a good setup at 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8 m), step back another 6 feet (1.8 m) and continue shooting through the paper. This will ensure that your settings are correct and that the boom was in neutral when you fired at the paper at the first range.

8 Bow and Arrow Tuning Guide

SETUP ON A SHORT

DISTANCES (FOR ALL TYPES)

In many cases, when setting up equipment, it is not possible to shoot from long distances.

The following method will help you achieve a very good setup of your equipment at short distances.

Use this method after you have completed one of the basic setup methods — zero-boom zeroing or paper test.

Start at about 12-15 yards (meters). Use

40 or 60 cm target with the clean side facing you to shoot at the white target.

Vertical spread

Using only feathered arrows, make 6-8

shots at the top of the target. This step will show you the correct location of the socket. See fig. 13.

Usually, minor tuning problems are visible at a short distance, because the boom has maximum vibration on it. This test will help identify boom flight problems and will allow you to make finer adjustments than previous procedures. If you are unable to consistently hit the upper edge of the target, this indicates a possible slight instability of the equipment. To fix this,

slide the socket 1/32 "(0.8 mm.) up or down and shoot again. Continue sliding the socket up or down.

1/32 "(0.8 mm.), (But not more) at a time.

If your arrows hit the edge of the target consistently, and

you managed to get the arrows to line up in a straight horizontal line at the top of the target, eliminating instability. If the arrow hit line has widened, return to the original

the original position of the socket and start sliding it in the other direction by moving it 1/32 "(0.8 mm). This will allow you to determine the correct position of the socket.

Horizontal spread

When you can get the horizontal arrows as straight as possible, you are ready to adjust the horizontal spread of the arrows. Shoot 6-8 arrows vertically at the left edge of the target. See fig. fourteen.

To reduce horizontal spread for archers' BR and BP, move the shelf to the left or right. This is done in order to compensate for the eccentric effect. Eccentric offset on block bows is not always

compensates for the natural vibrations produced by onions. Often the eccentric vibrates or tilts only when fully stretched. This is a common occurrence and you shouldn't worry about it. When fully pulled, the center of the shoulder that you marked in the preset step may not correspond to the true proportional center. Therefore, through trial and error, you must determine the best horizontal shelf position for maximum accuracy.

Move the shelf 1/32 "(0.8 mm) to one side or the other and shoot again. Continue adjusting

Vertical

Horizontal

until you reach the smallest horizontal spread of the arrow line. If the arrow hit line widens, return the shelf to its original position and slide it 1/32 "(0.8 mm) in the other direction. If the line narrows, continue to

swarm in the same direction until you reach the most straight line.

BP archers using plungers must make the necessary adjustments to the shelf and then adjust the plunger stiffness. Increase or decrease the plunger spring rate by 1/8 turn at a time. If the vertical line becomes wider, return the plunger to its original position and rotate 1/8 of a turn in the opposite direction until you achieve

an even vertical line of arrows.

RP archers should only adjust the plunger spring rate by increasing or decreasing it 1/8 turn at a time. If the vertical line becomes wider, return the plunger to its original position and rotate 1/8 of a turn in the opposite direction until you have a straight vertical line of arrows. Do not change the horizontal position of the boom! The horizontal position of the arrow on the bow axis has already been set during the preset stage

equipment.

ELIMINATION OF CAUSES

BAD FUCKY

You've probably heard some people say, "If you have good accuracy at 20 yards, it will be good at any distance" or "If you have good accuracy at long range, then it will be good at short range." In some cases, neither one nor the other is true. There may be a minimum

Way without

at a short distance,

distortions

acceptable accuracy

long distance

inconsistency in equipment that reduces its potential, does not allow achieving the best accuracy and entails poor accuracy. In this section,

den information to help you perform the tone

what settings are required to eliminate most

two "minute" problems in setting up your equipment

niya. Many archers experience one of the following problems with arrow accuracy and flight:

Poor arrow flight and good accuracy.

This is usually the result of arrows that are too hard. The arrow yaw slightly during separation from the bow, but usually stabilizes quickly and often exhibits very acceptable accuracy.

Good arrow flight and poor accuracy.

While this seems to be controversial, it happens quite often, and this is due to the configuration methods you used. If you get a great straight hole on the paper test, or a non-feathered arrow comes in exactly the same place as a feathered one, this may not always mean that you will have good accuracy. It just means your arrows are flying well. For this reason, Easton has developed fine-tuning and micro-tuning techniques to help you achieve optimal accuracy on your equipment.

Poor arrow flight and poor accuracy.

This is the most common problem with improper boom rigidity or unsettled equipment. The information in this guide should help you fix this problem.

Good arrow flight and good accuracy.

This is the end result of all the work you have done!

Accuracy patterns often indicate probable boom flight problems. To identify these problems, two of the most common accuracy patterns are described below. These examples are taken from FITA ranges, but can easily be attributed to any short or long range. Rice. 15 illustrates an example of good accuracy at the indicated distances.

Excessive braking

Accuracy, shown in fig. 16 shows a large spread at long distances (90 m), but the accuracy for shorter distances is acceptable. This means the boom is losing speed too quickly. Excessive braking will lead to boom instability due to the rapid loss of initial speed. When the initial velocity drops too quickly, instability appears. This unstable flight leads to poor accuracy over long distances and extreme sensitivity of the boom to wind. For lighter arrows, it is very important to reduce braking to a minimum in order to maintain top speed throughout the boom's flight path. This can be done by decreasing the size (height and / or length) of the plumage or decreasing the angle of the plumage sticker, or both.

Insufficient ground clearance

A sample of accuracy in Fig. 17 shows acceptable accuracy at two long ranges. However, at short distances, the accuracy does not decrease in proportion to the accuracy at long distances. (Compare with fig. 15). This usually indicates a clearance problem or minimal disruption.

10 Bow and Arrow Tuning Guide

interaction of the "Bow-Strela" system. To fix this, see the Ground Clearance section on page 5 or the Fine Tuning and Micro Tuning sections on pages 12-14.

Rice. 18 illustrates why you can have problems with accuracy at short distances, while at long distances the accuracy is good. When fired, when the arrow is separated from the bow, it is in the phase of its maximum oscillation. As the arrow travels further, the size of the bend decreases and the arrow returns to its original state. The example shows that the arrow is unstable and the accuracy at short distances is poor, but the arrow stabilizes at a long distance and shows acceptable accuracy. This instability is usually the result of minimal misalignment and clearance problems.

Rice. 19 shows the path of the arrow when it separates from the bow without any disturbance. This is exactly what you will try to achieve in the process of fine-tuning and micro-tuning.

INTERNAL SETTINGS

LUK-STRELA SYSTEMS

If you are having trouble tuning your bow, you need to make some adjustments to your equipment to get the best settings. Here are some suggestions:

Adjusting the tension of the bow

In fact, all compound bows, as well as recurve bows, have the ability to adjust the tension. If your booms are too stiff, increase the pulling force. If your arrows are too soft, reduce the pulling force.

The "weight" of the bowstring can have a significant effect on the stiffness of the arrow. Increasing or decreasing the number of threads in the bowstring affects the dynamic stiffness of the arrow so much that sometimes it is necessary to change the arrow to a whole size softer or harder. If your arrow is too stiff, reduce the number of bowstrings. If your arrow is too soft

increase the number of bowstrings. Winding weight

(center winding) can have the same effect.

For example, monofilament on the center winding can increase the stiffness of the boom as opposed to lighter nylon. Simply changing from metal to string stops on the boom seat can have a noticeable effect on boom stiffness due to the weight difference between the two seat types.

The bowstring is the most critical part of your equipment.

niya. If setting up your equipment has been unsuccessful for a long time, it is possible that

the problem lies in the string. Improper production of the bowstring can lead to uneven loading of its threads. This imbalance causes the bowstring to load and stretch unevenly, creating an erratic and unstable arrow release that severely reduces accuracy. If the problem exists and you cannot correct it with other settings, try changing the string and reconfiguring the equipment again.

Handpiece and insert weight

X10, A / C / E and A / C / C booms and Beman ICS can be customized using different weights and / or inserts. Aluminum booms can be customized using NIBB tips giving a 7%, 8% or 9% boom balance ratio. If your boom is too soft, use lighter inserts / arrowheads. If your boom is too stiff, try heavier inserts / arrowheads. Continue changing insert / tip weights within the boom balance ratio (7-16% F.O.C).

Onion base

For recurve bows, there is another way of adjusting the stiffness of the arrows - the base of the bow. By increasing or decreasing the distance from the bowstring to the axis of the bow handle, you can slightly change the dynamic stiffness of the arrow, making it slightly stiffer or softer. Increasing the base of the bow makes the arrow softer, while decreasing the base of the bow makes the arrow harder.

The base of the bow affects the stiffness of the arrow, increasing or decreasing the energy transferred to the arrow at the time of the shot. Increasing the base of the bow (shortening the bowstring) compresses the shoulders, increasing the load on the material of the shoulders. More initial shoulder squeeze results in more pulling force on the bow at full draw. And vice versa when decreasing the bow base. A smaller bow base (bowstring lengthening) reduces the initial compression of the shoulders and reduces the force of pulling the bow at full stretch.

However, increasing the base results in a small loss of arrow speed, since the slight increase in draw force does not compensate for the decrease in bow "stroke". When the stroke is reduced, the amount of time the arrow stays on the bowstring is also reduced, in turn decreasing the length of time that the bow's energy is transferred to the arrow.

While you may notice small losses in speed as the base of your bow increases, don't let speed be the deciding factor in choosing the best base for your bow. It is often said: "It is better to hit the bull's-eye slowly than to miss quickly."

On a block bow, it is often forgotten to make base adjustments during setups. This is because changes to the base of the bow change the length and tension, which in turn requires additional adjustments. However, finding the correct base of your block head (usually more than the manufacturer sets)