Which paraffin is better for skis? Secrets of ski training

If you don’t apply it, you won’t go. This wisdom has a direct bearing on skiing. Ski preparation is necessary not only for competitive athletes, but also for those who like to spend a weekend skiing. If you don’t want to send it to a service center every time, you need to learn how to lubricate your skis yourself. Today we will talk about how to prepare skis, namely: how to lubricate skis with quick-apply lubricants, how to wax cross-country skiing And what you need to do.

How to wax skis without an iron?

Quick application lubricants are inexpensive emulsions, creams, pastes that are applied in a couple of minutes. They do not impregnate a deeply sliding surface, so they will work for about 5-7 km. Such “lazy” lubricants are intended for people who use skis from time to time.

The instructions are the same for everyone:

• Apply an even layer to the entire sliding surface
• wait 2-3 minutes
• rub with natural cork or felt

There are expensive high-fluoride emulsions, pastes and creams. The principle of use is the same, but they are much more expensive. Using expensive racing lubricants using a quick application method, in our opinion, simply does not make sense. Racing emulsions, pastes and creams are used only after priming the ski with paraffin.

• Pros: fast, easy, convenient
• Minuses: The grease comes off the skis quickly and does not increase the service life of the skis.

An example of applying lubricant from Swix

In the video, a classic ski is smudged. Skate ones are smeared in the same way, but over the entire length.

How to wax skating skis?

This method of lubricating skis requires more time and tools. However, it is the most effective and most common among skiers. It is used both in training for ski care and in high-level competitions as a stand-alone lubricant or primer for accelerators. This method of preparing skis will be discussed below.

Ski Preparation Tools

Ski preparation profile

It consists of 2 stops with a loop for fastening.

Iron

When preparing, it is better to use a special ski iron. It differs from household ones in temperature conditions and soles. As an economical option, you can use an old household iron, but there is a risk of burning the sliding surface.

Several brushes

Ski brushes differ from household ones in the stiffness and length of the bristles. In any case, simple ski brushes are inexpensive and every amateur skier can afford a minimum set. An ideal set consists of 3 brushes: thin metal, medium-hard nylon, soft nylon. If it is not possible to purchase 3 brushes, then you can get by with one medium nylon brush.

Scrapers

Ski scrapers are the same for all manufacturers. They differ only in thickness - 3 mm and 5 mm. Choose which one is more comfortable in your hands, there is no fundamental difference. You will also need a scraper for the groove (can be replaced with the body of a ballpoint pen or marker).

Paraffins

Ski waxes are divided into 3 groups: CH (fluoride-free), LF (low-fluoride), HF (high-fluoride).

The higher the air humidity, the more fluoride you need. And the more fluorine, the more expensive the paraffin. CH is enough for ski care and weekend skiing with the family. If you want better gliding, then you need HF. LF – middle option. In general, the budget decides here. The main thing is to apply paraffin at the appropriate temperature.

How to prepare skate skis?

1. Clean the plastic from dirt with a thin wire brush. 3-5 passes from toe to heel will be enough.
2. Apply paraffin and melt with an iron on the ski. Don't forget that plastic melts at a temperature of 135 degrees, and some paraffins have a much higher melting point. Therefore, the iron does not need to be held in place. Run the iron from toe to heel for no more than 8-10 seconds, then repeat the procedure 3-4 times to evenly melt the paraffin.
3. Let the plastic cool to room temperature. At this time, apply paraffin to the second ski.
4. Remove the paraffin from the groove, and then from the edges and from the entire sliding surface. The paraffin from the groove is always removed first. So, if the scraper breaks, the sliding surface will not be damaged.
5. Clean off the residue with a thin metal brush, or if you don’t have a metal brush, use a medium-hard nylon brush. Same as in the first stage, 3-5 passes from toe to heel.
6. Polish with nylon brushes. First medium, then soft polishing. If there are no polishing machines, then after stage 5 the preparation is complete.

How to wax skis: video instructions

This video shows the best way to apply paraffin. Note:

• paraffin is applied using the drop method - not economically, but quickly and “greasy”
• processing is carried out with a metal and nylon brush
• We are talking about the initial preparation for weathering paraffin (this is not at all necessary, you can immediately apply the weathering one)

In this video, pay attention to the method of applying paraffin to a ski. The “poke the iron and smear it on the ski” method is more economical and is no less effective.

Play sports, move and travel! If you find a mistake or want to discuss the article, write in the comments. We are always happy to communicate. 🙂

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Lubrication

The preparation of skis for skating and classic moves is significantly different; this is due to a number of features and specifics of both the skis themselves and the differences in the push-glide phases during these moves.

It is important when preparing skis that their surface should be dry, clean and at room temperature!

There is also a difference in the preparation of plastic and wooden skis (plastic skis also include semi-plastic skis). Everything related to the use of paraffins (glide lubricants), powders, accelerators and other special preparation products is applicable only to plastic skis and skis with a plastic sliding base. As for the ointment, it is used equally on both wooden and plastic skis.

Selecting a lubricant is a very complex procedure, almost an art. Trainers and team lubricants spend months, or even years, gaining experience in handling and working with materials and accessories from various manufacturers. Unfortunately, their knowledge and experience are usually kept secret and shared only with their teammates. But in many cities service centers are already appearing (finally) at ski resorts and rentals, where ski preparation is carried out by specialists for a purely symbolic fee. Of course, the cost of such a service will largely depend on the cost of the materials used for the preparation, but the person will receive great pleasure from the skiing itself, will receive competent advice, qualified ski care, and will remove the very problem of selecting lubricant and preparation.

For those who want to prepare their own skis, there are some rules and recommendations outlined below. Basically, when selecting a lubricant, they are guided by their financial capabilities, since the quality of materials is often determined by their price (although exceptions are possible).

The market for lubricants and service materials is becoming more saturated every year, and the task of the sales consultant is to help the buyer choose the best option. It is generally accepted that the Swix company is the world leader in the production of lubricants (although it is very conditional and controversial). There are also such foreign brands as: “START”, “Briko” and many others, but all of them are distinguished by the high price of materials, with no guaranteed best result. This is due to different climatic conditions “there” and in Russia. After all, lubricant of the same brand, in different climatic zones, in different regions, at the same temperature and humidity, works completely differently, and sometimes does not work at all. Although she could show excellent results. All this equally applies to domestic lubricants. Their selection is not as wide as the selection of imported ones, but their price is several orders of magnitude lower, and the quality is sometimes not inferior to, and sometimes superior to, imported analogues.

Among them are: “LUCH” Yekaterinburg, “M VIS” Moscow, “ANCOR” Kirov. Of course, the famous “Wisty” N. Novgorod, which has been the sales leader in Russia for many years and is popular not so much because of the quality, but because of the price.

Skating move.

Due to the fact that in the skating stroke the entire sliding surface of the ski “works”, which is associated with the peculiarity of the push, therefore the entire surface is subject to maintenance and processing. Preparing skis for skating looks like this: paraffin is applied to dry, clean skis, over the entire sliding surface by rubbing, or, if the paraffin is refractory, it is better to apply it in a jet-drop manner from a hot iron, when a block of applied paraffin is pressed against the sole of a heated service iron. Do not allow the paraffin to overheat! After cooling, the paraffin is removed with a plastic scraper. Remains of small paraffin particles are “pulled out” from the pores of the plastic with a hard copper or synthetic brush. Then polish the surface with a soft natural bristle brush. This procedure is necessary to give the melted paraffin particles a directional structure.

Classic move.

The difficulty in preparing skis for classic skiing lies in the need to use holding ointment. Before applying it, a sliding lubricant (paraffin) is applied to the sliding ends of the skis (dry and clean) in the above order, while the block or, as it is also called, the cargo area, is left clean. This is due to the fact that the ointment applied to paraffin during the sliding process significantly loses its original qualities and, in addition, the duration of its action is reduced by an order of magnitude. Simply put, it simply “does not hold” and leaves the surface of the ski very quickly.

The ointment, like paraffin, is selected according to the temperature and humidity indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. It is applied by rubbing, not too thick, “under the block,” as some skiers say. Then the applied ointment is rubbed with natural or synthetic cork until a shiny, uniform film appears on the surface of the ski. You should not “pull” the ointment too much along the surface of the skis, either up or down.

It is possible to level the ointment with a service iron, but it must be clean (from paraffin residues) and not too hot so as not to overheat the ointment! In general, when selecting equipment, you must first of all be based on the wishes of each client and his individual characteristics, such as the length of his arms and legs, height and weight, and their proportions. It is impossible not to note the decisive role of the client’s financial capabilities when selecting equipment, lubricants and accessories, because the “limited wallet size” will significantly narrow the choice of possible options and models from the offered range. Therefore, the selection of equipment, equipment, lubricants and accessories is a creative process, but complex and time-consuming. Although it can be exciting both for the sales consultant (if he is well prepared) and for the buyer himself.

Shishkin Pavel Pavlovich
Kirov LLC “Anchor.Sport”.

Ski lubricants RAY “Beam”

Skiing (racing), or as they call it in Europe - cross-country skiing, involves moving on snow in two ways: classic and free (skating). In accordance with this, equipment manufacturers produce two main types of skis, classic and skate, which has led to the existence of two main types of ski lubricants. The first type is sliding lubricants, the second is holding lubricants.

Main characteristics of sliding lubricants Ray "Ray"

Glide lubricants (ointments) are used to improve the glide of skis on snow depending on weather conditions (mainly ambient temperature). On skate skis they are applied over the entire surface in contact with the snow. On classic skis, glide lubricants are applied only to the ends, excluding the middle part of the ski, 50 to 80 centimeters long, where grip lubricants are applied. Glide lubricants are applied to the ski by rubbing. Solid lubricants are melted with a lubricating iron, allowing the ointment to flow onto the sliding surface. The lubricant applied to the ski is once again melted with a lubricating iron until completely leveled. The difference between a special lubricating iron is a thick sole and a precise thermostat that allows you to maintain the set temperature without large jumps. After the lubricant has cooled to ambient temperature, it is scraped off with a plastic scraper and polished with brushes with various fillings (nylon, natural hair, thin metal wire). After skiing in the snow, lubricant residues are removed with special solvents.

“Ray” sliding lubricants (ointments) are divided into several series. Which series to use depends on air humidity and the presence of free water in the snow.

Series - CH carbon

Lubricants in this series do not contain fluoride additives. They are cheaper in price and have good performance in their ranges, especially at low air humidity. Designed for children's and veterans' sports, tourism and ensuring the training process for top-level athletes.

CH-1 +10−0*С yellow sliding lubricant for wet, water skiing, strong thaw.

CH-2 +3−3*С red used for wet snow of any structure, at the beginning or end of a thaw with mild frost.

CH-22 0−5*С orange Sliding lubricant for light frost, medium humidity, fine-grained and new snow. At high humidity it is combined with 0 +10*C.

CH-3 −2−7*S purple Works great in its temperature range on snow of any structure.

CH-4 − 6−12*С blue One of the most universal ointments, it works well in its range at low and medium air humidity on snow of any structure. Has excellent wear resistance. Serves as an excellent “preservative” when preparing skis for travel, due to its low melting point, wide temperature range and its versatility.

CH-5 −10−30*С green high-temperature synthetic paraffin (melting point 140*C), used at −10*C and below in conditions of dry powdery or fine-grained frozen snow. The cycle is removed after melting after 2-3 minutes, slightly warm. It is cleaned with a coarse brush and polished with non-woven material (fiberlene). At high air humidity (more than 80%), on new and falling snow, combine with SHF-77.78 powder. To do this, a thin layer of powder is applied to the warm, melted paraffin (about a third of the amount when SHF is the final layer) and melted together again. Further processing is traditional. This lubricant option can be used in the range of −2−18 * C at high air humidity.

Series - G graphite

Due to their antistatic properties, lubricants containing graphite often exhibit the best side either in dirty conditions or low humidity. They can reduce the accumulation of dirt on the sliding surface of the ski and in wet snow.

GS(soft) +10−5*C soft antistatic - graphite, base in the range of + 10−5*C.

GH(hard) −5−30*С frost antistatic agent - graphite, can work independently at −5*С and below in conditions of low air humidity (less than 70%). Refractory (melting point 100*C), removed and processed similarly to CH-5 lubricant.

LFGS(soft) +10−5*Soft graphite grease with a low content of organofluorine. Mixed with compositions of “warm” temperature ranges, it is intended for conditions of average humidity: dirty snow at above-zero temperatures, new and slightly stale snow at temperatures around zero and slightly minus.

LFGH(hard) −5−30*C frosty, refractory “graphite” with a small content of “organofluorine.” Possible base for all ranges of ointments of the LF and HF series. Works independently at temperatures below −7*C, new snow and air humidity less than 70%. Processed in the same way as GH.

HFGS(soft) +10−5*C soft antistatic graphite with a high fluorine content, used as a base for high-fluoride paraffins, powders, accelerators, emulsions.

Series - LF low fluor

LF lubricants are used in conditions of high air humidity (more than 65%) and snow. The introduction of fluorine components into the composition significantly improves the speed characteristics and operating stability of the lubricant. The introduced fluorine components have a surface tension coefficient 2-3 times less than the hydrocarbon base.

LF-1 +10+1*C yellow fluorosilicone grease - the best conditions of use: damp, wet snow at +3*C and above. When using at a distance of more than 15 km, you need to saturate with SHF powders, or apply them as a top layer.

LF-2 +3−3*С red used for wet snow of any structure, at the beginning or end of a thaw with mild frost. Serves as a good base for SHF powders

LF-22 +5−2*C silver.used for old, frozen, firn-like, dirty snow on both sides of zero. A solid, abrasion-resistant lubricant, especially when combined with SHF-77 powder.

LF-3 −2−7*С purple Works great in its temperature range on snow of any structure. At high air humidity (more than 80%) it can be used on new and fine-grained snow up to − 12*C. The base material is graphite GH, LFGH.

LF-4 −6−12*С blue lubricant with a high content of synthetic components, universal, abrasion resistant, especially “loves” new, falling snow with average humidity in the range of −6−10*C. Can serve as a base for all “warmer” HF series lubricants.

LF-5 −10−30*С green refractory, synthetic, slightly fluorinated paraffin for new fine-grained and frozen snow with average and high air humidity (60-85%). Apply and process similarly to CH-5.

LF-6 BASE is a soft service primer with a low fluorine content, melting temperature 60*C, used for cleaning (rinsing), priming new skis and skis after sanding. Penetrates perfectly into the pores of plastic, has excellent sliding characteristics, can work independently in the range of −1−10 * C and relative air humidity of 65-85%. Designed for processing both cross-country and alpine skis.

Series -HF high fluor

Glide ointments with a high content of low-melting organofluorine additive. They are unique for their excellent glide, work in a wide temperature range and are resistant to abrasion and dirt. HF ointments work great “alone”, and even better in combination with SHF-77,78,100,200. Conditions of high humidity and wet snow are ideal for HF gliding ointments.

HF-1 +10+1*С yellow used in damp, wet, water-saturated snow and rain. At short distances (up to 20 km) it can work without the use of SHF powders.

HF-2 +3−3*С red universal lubricant for sliding on snow of any structure on both sides of 0*C. He especially “loves” falling and slightly stale snow with a humidity of more than 85%. Serves as a good base for SHF series powders.

HF-22 +5−2*C silver used for coarse dirty spring snow, firn, ice. Compared to HF-2, it is a harder, abrasion-resistant sliding lubricant that has high speed characteristics in combination with SHF-77.

HF-3 −2−7*С purple works perfectly in its temperature range on snow of any structure with high humidity (more than 85%) of the air. It is better to use an antistatic agent - LFGH graphite - as a base. The use of the final layer of SHF-77 allows you to travel more than 50 km (on a prepared pair of skis) without deteriorating speed characteristics.

HF-4 −6−12*С blue a large percentage of solid synthetic additives gives the lubricant “resistance” to aggressive and already quite cold snow of any structure in conditions of high humidity (more than 85%) of the air. With new, falling snow, it is possible to use the final layer of SHF-78, on fine-grained snow - SHF-77.

HF-5 −5−25*C green Fully synthetic refractory lubricant for cold snow and humid air. On old and frozen snow during warming, it is possible to use up to −2*C.

Series -SHF 100% fluorocarbon

Powdered (emulsion), fluorocarbon, chemically inert sliding lubricants with a very low coefficient of friction. They have high resistance to dirt and oiling, and stability in operation. long distances. Designed for high performance sports.

SHF-77 +10−10*С universal powder, for any snow structure in conditions of high humidity. Melting point 100*C.

SHF-78 +5−5*С powder can be used on snow of any structure (except for abrasive hard skis). Especially “good” on new snow. The melting point is 70*C, which speaks for itself - there are no problems with ski overheating. Combines perfectly with soft paraffins.

SHF-100 +10+1*C emulsion fluorinated lubricant. Effective when there is free water in the snow (slush, everything “floats”).

SHF-200 −2−15*C emulsion fluorinated lubricant. In its temperature range it gives an increase in gliding in any type of snow, even with average air humidity. On stale, finely crystalline snow, colder than −8*C can be much more effective than SHF-77 powder.

Technology for working with SHF-100, 200: apply thin layer on the surface of the skis, let dry, rub with a “cork” stopper, then thoroughly polish with a soft fiberlen cloth.

The technology for working with SHF powders is similar to working with powders of this series from foreign companies. SHF lubricants have a high degree of purification and are non-toxic when heated to 300*C. It is prohibited to work with open flames or smoke in areas where fluorocarbon lubricants are being worked with.

Methods for applying SHF series lubricants

Preliminary preparation: before applying SHF powder lubricants, skis must be washed, structure must be applied, treated with a sliding lubricant appropriate to weather conditions, thoroughly cleaned with brushes and sanding cloth.

Hot method (melting): Apply a thin, even layer of powder, carefully spreading over the entire sliding surface of the ski. The iron should have a temperature of 120-130*C, only then can the powder be melted in one pass. The movement of the iron should be uniformly calm (the formation of flickering sparks and crystals is a sign of melting and connection of the SHF with the surface of the ski). After cooling the skis, brushing follows: first made of natural horsehair, then soft nylon. Use “powder” brushes only for their intended purpose. This method of powder melting is necessary when preparing skis for a distance of 30 km. and longer. Don't let the iron stop on a ski while melting the powder! Don't overheat your ski when melted - this can lead to a change in the structure of the plastic itself!

Dry application (rubbing): used at short distances (10-15 km) with a soft snow structure on the ski track. A thin layer of powder is applied (can be in islands or spots) and thoroughly rubbed in with a clean cork or a special polishing felt block until a uniform film is formed. This is followed by treatment with a horsehair brush, a soft “powder” brush, or fiberlene. If the distance is long enough (20-30 km), and the snow is “abrasive”, and you doubt that the “organofluorine” will last until the end of the race, use a method intermediate between melting and dry rubbing of powder. Apply a little more SHF powder to the ski than with the dry method, rub the powder a little with a cork rub and run an iron heated to 100*C several times to make the ski warm. Then carefully, with force, rub the lubricant over the ski. Let the ski cool and process it as with the hot method.

Paraffin saturation method: A thin layer of powder is applied to the melted paraffin (2-3 times less than with the hot method) and thoroughly heated with an iron until twinkling “stars” appear. After cooling, the skis are processed in the traditional way. SHF-77 is combined with refractory paraffins, and SHF-78 with soft ones. This method can be used in the range of +10−15*C, which allows you to save powder.

Preparing skis and choosing a glide lubricant

New skis: if a “steinlift” is applied to the sliding surface - a microstructure for a certain temperature range and snow structure, then apply a service primer, melt it, cool it. After this, scrape the surface with a sharp metal scraper (with light pressure). Use a scraper to remove only the fluff, leaving a pattern of microstructure. Apply a second coat (amply) - warm up, cool, warm up again and after cooling, cycle with a plastic cycle. Clean (in one direction from toe to heel) with a metal (bronze, brass) brush, then polish with a nylon brush. After this, depending on the weather, you can apply one of the “graphites”, and the last layer is the main sliding paraffin. If the sliding surface of new skis does not have a “steinlift,” then use a sharp metal scraper to cycle the surface of the ski until the lint is completely removed, “soak” it with service primer 2-3 times and clean it with a plastic scraper. After this, manually apply one or another type of “knurling” - structure, depending on weather conditions. Next is weather-appropriate lubrication.

If the skis are not new- “wash” them with service primer (CH-22 is possible) to remove dirty and old grease; if the sliding surface is “rolled” (the skis were used for a long time without updating the sliding plastic, “fluoride powders” were often used), lightly cycle them with a sharp metal cycle, then apply the structure manually. Next is weather-appropriate lubrication.

snow structure, snow and air humidity, snow and air temperature, presence of wind and its speed, albedo of the snow surface.

Main characteristics of grip (clutch) lubricants Ray "Ray"

Holding lubricants (ointments) are used on classic skiing to prevent the ski from slipping when pushing forward. The area for applying grip lubrication (block) starts from the heel of the boot and continues 50 - 80 centimeters forward to the toe of the ski. Holding lubricants also depend on weather conditions (mainly on ambient temperature).

Currently, skis with a wooden sliding surface are widely used for snow skiing throughout Russia. Such skis are considered classic; for movement they use only grip lubricants, which are applied both under the block and over the entire sliding surface.

Holding lubricants have a sticky consistency; they are rubbed onto the skis in several layers, each layer is leveled with a special synthetic cork. The number of layers applied depends on weather conditions. The grease remaining after riding is removed with a plastic or metal scraper and washed off with a special solvent. Ray holding ointments are divided into two series.

Series of solid synthetic ointments W

W line ointments are traditional holding ointments for any type of snow, intended for both athletes and amateurs. Today there are 9 items in this line, from the softest W-1 to the hardest W-9. A small step in temperature ranges, especially around 0*C, allows you to more carefully select an ointment in difficult weather conditions. Despite the fact that these ointments do not contain fluoride additives, they have a fairly wide range of applications, are easy to use, and can be easily combined with each other and with ointments from other lines and manufacturers.

W-1 +4+1*С yellow soft ointment, intended for thawing and wet, shiny ski tracks. Does not tolerate dry snow.

W-2 +2−0*С red special ointment for thaw weather. Best suited for stale, finely crystalline snow at temperatures just above zero.

W-3 0*С purple slightly harder than red ointment. Used at about 0*C on new and fine-grained snow, when it turns from cold to wet.

W-4 0−2*С light purple Suitable for use in any snow and mild frost. With old, grainy snow, it can be used down to −6*C and as a base for W-5.

W-5 −1−4*С blue universal, covering a wide range of temperatures below 0*C, when used around 0*C requires new snow and low air humidity. On fine-grained snow it works independently down to −12*C. Wear-resistant. W-6 −3−9*С light blue ointment for frosty weather and all types of snow.

W-7 −6−13*С green Slightly harder than W-6 for new and old snow.

W-8 −10−18*С light green ointment for moderate frost. Suitable for coating softer ointments (necessarily in a thin layer), especially on dry new snow to improve gliding.

W-9 −15−30*С colorless ointment for critical frosty weather. Used mainly to coat softer waxes to improve ski glide. Apply independently in thin layers on new powdery snow at an air temperature of −20*C and colder.

Primer ointment

Ground wax is specially formulated to prevent hard grip waxes from abrading on rough, abrasive snow.

G−1−25*C orange practical and flexible primer for all ointments at temperatures below −1*C. Recommended for use on old (granular) snow, when the ointment wears off quickly. Apply under an iron and rub in with a cork. Cooling down. Next, apply ointment in the appropriate temperature range.

Series of solid resin ointmentsWG (terva)

Ointments of the WG line (terva - resin) - harmoniously complement the W line of ointments. Ointments of this group differ in composition from traditional ointments, which provides them with increased adhesion properties to snow in similar temperature ranges, and contain new simplified formulas. Today there are 6 items in this line, ranging from the softest WG-1 to the hardest WG-6. The addition of natural tree resin makes them especially “rollable” without compromising their holding properties on new and slightly old snow at low and medium air humidity.

WG-1 +3−0*С yellow for new damp, falling and stale snow, but not shiny ski tracks. The warmer the weather, the thicker the ointment should be applied.

WG-2 +1−1*C red for new and fine-grained snow. The range of application can be much wider, from +2*C on new and dry snow, to −2*C on old but not yet heavily recrystallized wet snow.

WG-3 0−3*C purple universal holding ointment for slightly frosty weather. On old snow, the range of application increases to −6*C.

WG-4 −2−8*C blue used for moderately cold snow of any structure. On new snow it gives confident grip even at -2*C. On old snow with rounded crystals and low penetration power, combine with purple and red ointment.

WG-5 −5−12*C green universal ointment for cold snow. The range of application on new and dry snow begins at −4*C, and ends with old and transformed snow at −18*C. Used as a primer for increasingly “warmer” ointments in this series.

WG- 6 −10−25*C light green the coolest, hardest ointment of the line. For snow of any structure in cold, extreme conditions.

Preparing skis and choosing clutch lubricants

Before starting to lubricate, determine the surface area on the ski where the holding ointment will be applied. Usually it is located from the heel of the boot towards the toe of the ski, 50-90 cm forward behind the binding. This distance can be clearly determined when purchasing skis, since the holding surface is the surface under which the paper moves freely with the skier’s body weight evenly distributed on both skis. Roughen the holding surface with 150-240 micron sandpaper. This will improve the adhesion of the ointment and make it work especially long. The first layer can be placed under the iron, thereby increasing the contact of the ointment with the surface of the ski and making the lubricant work longer. The heating temperature of the iron is about 100*C. On abrasive snow, use primer G as the first layer. Choose a holding ointment according to the weather. Apply several thin layers to cooled skis, carefully rubbing each layer with a cork.

The main factors influencing the selection of lubricant: snow structure, snow and air temperature, snow and air humidity, presence of wind and its speed, albedo of the snow surface.

Use of lubricantsSHFtogether with clutch lubricants:

SHF series powders can be used when working with clutch lubricants at “classic” distances. They are especially successful when combined with semi-solid, soft ointments. Ski waxes clutches covered with SHF powders freeze less and have higher speed properties.

Typically, SHF powder is applied as a top layer to the ground lubricant (do not apply a thick layer), leveled with your fingers, and rolled out by lightly pressing the cork. When used in combination with semi-solid lubricants, the powder can be carefully melted with one stroke of the iron (do not rub the plug after this). Clutch ointments can also be covered over short distances with emulsions SHF-100,200.

Manufacturers recommend applying paraffins in layers, for example, SWIX: CH-LF-HF (START: SG-LF-HF). Fluorine-free – light fluoride – high fluoride. Why? It is very important that the sliding surface (SP) is covered with paraffin without micro-gaps. And paraffins with a high fluorine content not only repel water well, but also do not wet the plastic in the best way and stick. Fluoride-free paraffins adhere better to joint ventures. Therefore, it is correct to first moisten new joints with CH (SG) paraffin (to make a base, a basis for the next layers), then with less sticky paraffins. This layer of paraffin performs the function of initial wetting; in the future, the use of fluoride-free paraffin for the base is not necessary.

The concept of “layer” serves only to make it easier to explain to the user the essence of the process. In fact, all the layers are melted down and the resulting mixture has a very small percentage of the paraffin that we started with. Let's remember the application process: I deposited a large amount of paraffin on the joint venture, cleaned it with a scraper and brushes to the thinnest layer, then again filled the joint venture with a large amount of more fluoride paraffin. A small amount of CH is smelted with a large amount of LF. Same with HF paraffin. Despite the small amount, the influence of the base paraffin on the properties of the final alloy is still there. Therefore, under frosty paraffins, a layer of lower-melting, more plastic paraffin is applied, which prevents overheating and chipping, and under warm paraffins, in case of abrasive snow, hard frosty ones are applied.

What kind of paraffin should I apply the powder on?

Fluorocarbon powders provide the best water repellency and good glide. The problem is applying the fluorocarbon film to the ski. Not only does the molten powder poorly wet polyethylene-based plastic, but it is also easy to melt the joint venture. In order for the powders to work for a long time and effectively, an intermediate layer of synthetic fluoride paraffin is required. START recommends applying SFR (powders) to HF paraffin. And according to SWIX recommendations, not only the HF-FC bundle (different powders) is possible, but also the LF7-FC, LF8-FC and LF10-FC bundles. In practice, a decrease in the stability of the powder layer placed not on HF, but on LF SWIX, was not noticed. This does not mean that the glide will be the same or that it will always be worse with LF. We have to try. And only to avoid unnecessary uncertainty, amateurs often add HF under powders.

Which company's paraffins roll better?

The problem is solved by brute force, i.e., rolling back many options. There are a great many lubricant manufacturers; no amount of money is enough to try them all. What should an amateur buy? The most common ones in stores are SWIX and START. Take them. My recommended set of lubricants for the Moscow region tritely simple: HF80 START, LF6 SWIX, HF7 SWIX, HF8 SWIX. Frosty paraffins are rolled without additives, warmer ones are suitable for one of the lubrication options for frozen, transformed snow. Other options require coating the waxes with powders. The use of powders, in addition to their excellent performance at high humidity, is also justified by the fact that warm paraffins have the problem of wear resistance. Powders increase the stability of the lubricant. I recommend powder F9-20(±4°) from the “9th element”. To create a continuous coating of SP with fluorocarbon, suspensions (activator F9-01, in particular) and powders, tablets and powders are combined. For example, they first rub the ski with a tablet, then fuse the powder. There is no danger of the joint being touched by a hot iron, there is always a layer. Since only a thin film of fluorocarbon is needed, less powder is wasted. This is more economical (tablet + powder in total) and safe for joint ventures than working with powder alone. I often use the SFR99(±9°) START tablet on my own on not fresh, old snow and at temperatures colder than those recommended for F9-20 powder. Tablet and powder are not the same thing. At least, the conditions for using tablets and powders are often separated by humidity. START recommends using powders as a top layer at higher humidity levels than tablets.

For Peter, in my opinion, choosing a lubricant is easier. The humidity is always high, there is a lot of fresh snow. There are fewer options. The entire line of PHF paraffins from START is good. Polymer paraffins are also favored by their high dirt-repellent properties, which is important when the ski track is prepared with the smoking Buran. Polymer waxes allow you to use the same lubricant for training and competition. It’s just cheaper than regular fluorocarbon powders, much less polymer ones. (You can also get by with a cheaper lubricating iron.) And in most cases, without loss of gliding quality. Only at marathons can a fundamental difference be noticeable. Currently, PHF series paraffins are not produced, but they can still be purchased. Something else for cold weather, the same HF80.

Have both lines of lubricants It’s very useful for both St. Petersburg and Moscow. Problems with difficult snow are easier to solve, especially near 0°. By the way, polymer paraffins can be a good base for powders. You can create the minimum acceptable set for an amateur from just three paraffins: HF80(-7°-25°), PHF600(-1°-6°) from START and HF7(-2°-8°) from SWIX. Here PHF600 for high humidity, HF7 for snow dried by night frost, non-abrasive. Paraffins can be mixed if necessary, applied in a checkerboard pattern and melted. In most cases, you will glide quite well in the cold. Even without powders. And you don’t need lubricant for water, because it won’t help if you don’t have plus skis.

By Dan Brown slip/not slip is a relative concept, not an absolute one. There is no need to hope that for every snow condition there is a lubricant that allows you to roll perfectly. Successful lubrication will allow you to ski better than other skiers. Brown also writes: keep it simple.

Paraffins PHF

PHF paraffins from the START company are polymer high fluoride paraffins. Good at high (>85% strictly!) humidity. Can serve as a replacement for traditional fluorocarbon powders. (Not at marathons.) START itself writes this in the instructions for the PHF200 and PHF400 paraffins! Recommended for use on old and dirty snow. In my experience, PHFs are good for fresh snow that has not yet lost moisture. The properties of different paraffins are described below, and typical testing episodes are given. The glide quality was determined in comparison with the glide of skis treated with other lubricants and relative to other skiers.

PHF200(+1°+10°) is very good. Maximum water and dirt repellency. Soft, plastic. It is cleaned with a brush to a thin film, which is durable, does not loosen for a long time, and does not turn grey. I tried it in St. Petersburg on “Priboy” at +5°, after rain. Spring coarse-grained dirty snow. Needles, twigs. After traveling 25 km, the paraffin is in place, under the block there is a barely noticeable whitishness. I wiped it with white paper, the paper remained clean. Didn't pick up any dirt.

If the spring sun shines on the ski track, then the 200 rolls perfectly down to -6°. The base is important! I used CH7(-2°-8°)SWIX. CH7 gives a solid base, without gaps, as evidenced by a solid, oily sheen.

PHF400(-1°+1°) disappointed. Goes gray faster than 200. Old snow is a minus, fresh snow is a plus. Too similar to PHF600. At temperatures warmer than -1°, average frost skis do not roll on any lubricant. On plus skis, the 200 worked better than the 400.

PHF600(-1°-6°) very good from -2° to -6°. Great on fresh fluffy snow. However, there is fresh snow that falls in the form of grains, on which PHF600 slows down. I fell on such snow at temperatures of -2° and -6°.

PHF800(-6°-12°) hard, for ease of application it must be ground into powder. I tried it in Chulkovo near Moscow after heavy snowfall, at a temperature of -10°. Rare weather from night warmth (-8°) to daytime frost. It rolled great. Better than all the starters. In St. Petersburg it always rolls within its temperature range.

Snow in Moscow and St. Petersburg

There is a difference in the properties of snow near St. Petersburg and in the Moscow region. The Moscow region is drier, the snow is often old. Polymer paraffins, which are almost always sold in St. Petersburg, may not be the best in the Moscow region. START BM6 paraffin with molybdenum is popular in the Moscow region, which is impossible to imagine on fresh St. Petersburg snow. Amateur starts in the Moscow region are more widespread, the snow is mixed more intensely. So there is no trace left of the fresh one. And often the clay is turned out.

Pro Sometimes they apply different lubricants to the tip and heel of the ski. This is understandable, because the toe forms a film of water, and the heel rolls on the finished one.

For the base at temperatures warmer than -10° I recommend CH7 from SWIX (423 REX BLUE is also good, I like SG4 from START less.), for colder temperatures - SG6 from START or LF6 from SWIX. Despite their hardness, they are easy to apply. The manufacturer START recommends using even more refractory SG8 or LF8 as a base for abrasive snow, however, these glass-like paraffins are inconvenient to work with, and you can overheat the bare plastic. In theory, before applying HF, PHF or nano-paraffin, you should also add light fluoride BWLF from START. I think this is unnecessary. There are no problems when applying paraffin to paraffin.

There is no pure snow

Skis melt soot from the snow and much more. Dirt settles on the joint venture and accumulates in the grooves of the structure. Skis must be washed to remove dirt. If you lubricate dirty skis, then just use new paraffin, it will lose its sliding properties. The easiest way is to rinse with basic paraffin, the one you will use today. Simply apply new wax and scrub with a brass brush. It’s even better to clean the structure with an ultra-thin steel brush, wipe off dust with a cloth, and then rinse. Do not store dirty skis for a long time! During long breaks in skiing, skis should be covered with clean paraffin. Otherwise, the wettability of the plastic with paraffin will be greatly affected, which will certainly affect the wear resistance of the lubricant.

Service paraffin

It is convenient to wash the joint venture with low-melting service paraffin. For example, BP99 SWIX or SOFT SKI-GO. Using service paraffin, the dirt is washed off well (the main thing is that it is safe for the joint venture) and ends up on the iron. It must be washed from the iron, otherwise it will burn. Service paraffin is also applied to new skis at the initial stage of preparation. Then, dissolving in the more refractory base paraffin, the service paraffin will serve as its conductor into the small grooves of the structure.

Subtle matter

Only the thinnest layer of paraffin is wear-resistant! A thick layer quickly loosens and turns grey. To create a thin layer I use a hand brass brush. For soft paraffins, I prefer a combination rotary brush made of horsehair and white nylon and a high-speed drill. I brush with half a horsehair brush until the white powder stops flying from the skis. Next, lightly 2-3 passes with an ultra-thin manual steel brush to work out the structure. Then I polish it with white nylon. Strict adherence to SKI-GO recommendations. Quote from the manual: “Only a very thin film of the last applied lubricant should remain on the surface of the grooves of the structure. Skis that are poorly brushed do not provide optimal glide.”

Application of hard frost paraffin from a block is difficult and leads to a large consumption of paraffin. Powder versions of frosty paraffins VAUHTI, SKI-GO, SWIX are convenient and economical.

How to grind paraffins into powder yourself?

We melt the block on the iron, pour drops of molten paraffin into a basin of water. We collect the resulting paraffin flakes and dry them on paper. Then we grind in small portions on a clean electric coffee grinder. There is no need to throw away the coffee grinder afterwards - the remaining paraffin is easy to remove. Small grains of paraffin require much less heat to melt than a bar. They are easy to distribute evenly over the slip. Melt with an iron, pressing the powder on top. Paraffin consumption is reduced, and there is less work with a scraper and brush. Using frosty paraffin becomes convenient.

Important details

When choosing a lubrication option, you must first of all take into account the condition of the snow and its structure. How long ago did it fall, what was the daily temperature range? The large daily variation in temperatures quickly ages the snow. The method of preparing the ski tracks is important. If the ski track is prepared with a snowcat, then the old lower snow is mixed with the fresh upper snow. Moreover, they melt it, using up a lot of machine power. If the ski track is rolled with your feet, then there is more fresh snow on top. There are many states of snow, for example, fresh snow for lubrication is not the same as fresh falling snow. And falling snow comes in the form of fluffy large flakes and in the form of small grains...

It is advisable to check the glide of skis and lubricants on snow of exactly the structure and degree of compaction that is expected at competitions.

One rule for choosing paraffins

The recommendations of lubricant manufacturers look something like this: for new and old snow in the temperature range from... to... And the temperature ranges of several paraffins of the same line overlap. This allows the lubricant to be more accurately adapted to the structure of the snow.

For most paraffins, the cold end of the temperature range of use corresponds to fresh snow, and the warm end to old snow.(Not always, there are paraffins whose purpose is snow of only a certain structure, which is necessarily written in the manufacturer’s manual.)

And with fresh snow, you should try paraffin in a colder range, and with old snow, in a warmer range.
The above does not apply to icy, aggressive snow. It requires paraffin that is hard and frosty; the fluoride content is often unimportant. A molybdenum additive is desirable.

With paraffins, structures, ski diagrams, in the most general sense, everything obeys the same rule: new, fluffy snow does not fit tightly to the joint, like a “blotter” takes water from the water film, requires harder paraffin, a smoother structure, a smoother diagram for sliding, than follows from the thermometer readings.

I wish you great gliding!

Paraffin for skis is necessary to improve gliding. Outdoor enthusiasts and athletes always use lube because it is difficult to ride without it. For good gliding, less grip on the snow is required.

Paraffin is a mixture of hydrocarbons obtained during oil refining. Paraffins are distinguished by degree of viscosity:

1. liquid - melt at a temperature of 20-25 0 C;
2. solid, melting point is 70 0 C;
3. crystalline - begin to melt at a temperature of 80 0 C.

Paraffins repel water. They are used to prepare various mixtures to give them the desired consistency and elasticity. For example, Vaseline ointments are produced based on paraffin.

Lubricants used are produced from derivatives of petroleum hydrocarbons.

Types of paraffins

To make skiing productive, you need to choose a paraffin lubricant. The main rule for choosing is the air temperature. There are several types of lubricants:

• for cold weather, not higher than 12 0 C;
• for optimal temperature from -12 to -2 0 C;
• for warm weather from -1 0 C.

The main substance that increases the quality of gliding in warm weather is fluorine. Therefore, more of it is added to lubricants intended for temperatures above -2 0 C. It follows from this that the less fluorine in the lubricant, the lower the temperature it is intended for.

There are all-weather lubricants used at temperatures of 0 -30 °C.

Liquid

Liquid paraffins have no advantages over hard waxes. The properties of the produced waxes are the same; they impregnate the surface of the product that comes into contact with the snow. To improve sliding, after waxing, the surface must be heat treated; this also applies to liquid lubricants.

There are 2 forms of liquid waxes: ointment and aerosol. The ointment is no different from solid paraffins.

The aerosol is easy to apply. Its only drawback is its high consumption, since the liquid is sprayed over the entire surface.

With heat treatment

You need to wax your skis only after cleaning and drying. To obtain the result, lubrication is carried out in stages:

1. Heat the iron to a temperature of 150 0 C.
2. Liquid paraffin for skis must be applied to the sliding surface of the product.
3. Iron the ski from toe to heel.
4. The product must dry for at least 8-10 minutes, and the temperature should not be below 0 °C. At this stage, the waxed ski is treated with a brush.

Afterwards, the sliding surface will be filled with lubricant and leveled. Excess wax is removed with a brush.

Such operations are repeated at least 10 times, since the brush, along with the excess, also removes some of the wax that has clogged into microcracks. When paraffin treatment is repeated several times, the ointment becomes more compacted into the cracks.

No heat treatment

If it is not possible to use an iron for waxing, but the product needs to be lubricated, liquid lubricants are useful, the manufacturers of which claim that they can be applied without heat treatment.

To wax your skis you need:

• dry;
• clean thoroughly with a brush, removing dirt and dust;
• wipe with a rag and let air for 5-7 minutes;
• apply a layer of wax, wait 5 minutes;
• rub the wax with a special sponge;
• Let it sit again for 8-10 minutes.

If too much paraffin is applied, remove the excess using a brush. It is worth carefully studying the instructions for use for the selected paraffin, since most manufacturers indicate that cold application technology does not involve brushing.

When buying paraffins, you should consider the cost, reviews and recommendations. The price of the composition does not matter, it is important to apply it correctly.

The windows of sports stores display a huge range of domestic and imported lubricants. They operate on the same principle: perfect skis.

Paraffin for plastic products

Skiing on plastic cross-country skis is impossible without pre-treatment. It is necessary to take care of paraffin for sliding and holding compounds, scrapers and brushes. This is necessary to polish the surface of the product.

Paraffin is also used on snowboards. In order to ride like a breeze on a mountain slope, the product needs constant rubbing with ointments, and snowboards must also be rubbed.

The ski season does not last all year round, so storage is very important. Sport equipment should be treated regularly as this increases its service life.

How to remove old grease

To remove old paraffin, you must use a special remover or scrapers.

The wash is used if it is necessary to apply all layers of lubricant from scratch. In other cases, it is better to use scrapers.

To properly remove paraffin, special holders are required. It is necessary to secure the product in them and move the scraper from toe to heel, making sure that the scraper does not bend.

Preparation Tools

To use you need a set of tools:

• scraper - can be made of plexiglass;
• iron;
• file;
• brushes;
• soft fabric;
• holder.

How to wax skating skis

Lubrication occurs as follows:

• clean the surface from dirt;
• apply paraffin and use an iron to melt it over the surface;
• cool the heated skis to ambient temperature;
• remove old paraffin;
• the remaining lubricant must be cleaned with a stiff brush;
• polishing with soft brushes.

High-quality skis are needed not only by athletes, but also by outdoor enthusiasts. If you don’t have the time or opportunity to prepare your pair every time in a special service, then you need to learn how to do it yourself.