Preparation of cross-country skis for competitions. Skis for skating training

The history of skiing goes back several thousand years. They were invented by the ancient peoples who lived in the north, who needed to move quickly through the snow. Skiing appeared only at the end of the 19th century and significantly influenced appearance the skis themselves, the material and features of their care.

Depending on the needs and purpose, skis are divided into three large groups:

1. Classic: have a solid base and a small cutout at the narrowest point;
2. Skiboards: These are short (75-110 cm) skis for downhill skiing. They differ from the classics in smaller sizes and wider cutouts at the waist, and they also lack protection in the event of a fall due to lightweight fastening. They are divided into models for free descent and stunt;
3. Carving: used for descents from the mountains in an arc. They have a large side cutout, classic fastening and low rigidity.

There is also a more modern classification skiing:

1. Allmountain: non-specialized (universal) cross-country skiing for any descent, weather and terrain. It is difficult to set a record for them, but it will be possible to conduct “reconnaissance” of a new area without problems;
2. Freeride: their length is 185-195 cm, waist width is more than 9 cm.
3. Big Mountain: One of the options for freeride skis. Used when riding on loose snow and unpacked, unprepared roads, for aggressive descent along the "wild" mountains;
4. Powder: Another option for freeride skis, designed for skiing only in deep snow;
5. Carving: characterized by a small length and a deep neckline. Used when driving on specially prepared tracks. Riding them is characterized by slow movements and smooth turns. Depending on the terrain, there are sports carv (for normal driving), freecarv (for relief terrain) and supercarv (for skiing without sticks);
6. Racing: used in professional competitions in downhill, slalom and giant slalom;
7. Cross-country models: used for group cross-country skiing on mountain race tracks;
8. Freestyle: These are skis for performing acrobatic stunts. They feature specially curved heels to soften landings;
9. Mogul: for walking along the mogul (mounds);
10. Children and teenagers: differ in a special form.

Popular manufacturers:

1. Budget: "Atemi", "Larsen", "Tisa", "Dynamik";
2. Premium class: "Fischer", "Madshus", "Rossignol", "Atomis".

The nuances of professional ski training

No matter how professional and expensive skis are, without special training little suitable for operation, and the pleasure of riding is reduced to zero and even dangerous. It does not matter whether they are intended for professional competitions or amateur run - preparation is necessary in any case. All skiers need to know how to properly prepare their skis and what products to use.

Ski preparation takes place in several steps:

1. Cleaning the sliding surface with a stiff brush. This allows you to clean off the old grease and remove bumps;
2. Applying paraffin. This increases the stability of the ointment. Paraffin is applied hot: after cooling, the excess is removed;
3. Applying additional products: paraffin or special lubricants. The latter can be water-repellent, accelerating or provide additional traction. The choice of ointment depends on the specific situation and the sport.

Surface cleaning

This is the initial stage of ski processing. This will help remove old wax layers, smooth the surface and open the pores, and help the waxes penetrate deeper into the skis.

For cleaning at home, you will need a brass or steel brush, which you need to run several times along the bottom (sliding) surface of the ski, and then clean off all excess paraffin with a nylon brush. It is necessary to brush from the heel to the toe about 50 times. The old paraffin must be heated with an iron to melt the paraffin, then completely scrape off.

Surface preparation

No special preparation of the sliding surface is required. After cleaning off the old grease with a brush, it is ready for the application of paraffin or ointment.

It is important to note several nuances of preparation:

1. Cleaning the groove: it is cleaned after the old wax has been warmed up, but before it is completely removed with a scraper or scraper. This must be done in this order so that if the scraper accidentally slips out, the surface is protected;
2. Checking the edges (side surfaces) before riding. They should not have scratches, notches and dents. If the edges are blunt, they need to be sharpened: turning with blunt edges is difficult and dangerous, especially when skating;
3. Applying the structure. Ski sliding occurs due to the melting of snow near the surface, due to which the ski slides over a thin layer of moisture. However, if the layer is too thin or, conversely, thick, the skier may have problems. to prevent this from happening, a structure is applied to the sliding surface - this is a system of grooves, similar to the “pattern” on tires. This allows excess water to escape, helping to slow down.

The structure is applied by the manufacturer, but if it does not suit the owner of the equipment, he can change the pattern. This can be done manually using manual knurling or by machine. The latter is called "Steinshlift".

Information about ski lubricants

When choosing a lubricant for skis, the following nuances should be considered:

1. Air temperature: recommended is usually indicated on the package. Snow temperature may also be given, but is more difficult to determine;
2. Humidity: You don't need to measure it exactly. Average values ​​are usually sufficient: in a dry climate, the humidity does not exceed 50%, in a climate of average humidity it is 50-80%, in a humid climate it can reach 100%;
3. The grain or appearance of the snow. Sharp snowflakes require a dense ointment that will protect the skis. At low temperatures, it is best to choose an ointment with synthetic additives, at elevated (greater than zero) - water-repellent.

All lubricants are divided into two large groups:

1. Paraffin: This is a wax-like lubricant for sliding. It is used for wooden and plastic skis. It is necessary that snow does not stick to the surface. They can also be used as a base for other lubricants;
2. Ointments: these are holding lubricants, they link the skis to the ski track when pushing. Usually they are applied to the ends of the skis so that they can push off, but some skiers apply it entirely to the entire sliding surface. The choice of ointment depends on the temperature, and a warmer one is applied under the block. For example, if it is 10 degrees outside, then ointments with a temperature of 5-12 degrees are applied to the ends, and 5-8 degrees under the block.

Lubricants are also divided:

1. The composition of the mineral, synthetic, combined. Additionally, they may contain fluorine, graphite or resin;
2. By consistency, lubricants are solid and semi-solid, liquid, emulsions, powders, sprays, pastes. In the last three states, professional products are usually released. How to apply powder on skis must be read in advance in the instructions, but in general the procedure does not differ from waxing: the powder is applied to the surface and heated with an iron.

Features of applying to skis

Applying paraffin is considered one of the most dangerous procedures, as you have to use a heated iron. You need to wax after cleaning the top layer.

1. The ski is carefully fixed on the machine or other flat surface so that it does not fall;
2. Paraffin is applied to the bottom surface. If it is solid, it will have to be slightly melted. For example, you can heat a piece of paraffin and run it over a ski. The layer thickness should be 0.5-1 mm;
3. After the paraffin is carried out with a heated iron. The iron should not be too hot so that the paraffin does not evaporate at all, it is better to choose the minimum temperature that is enough for warming up. Usually it is 60 degrees. You need to carry out quickly, without stopping, once, without force. There should always be a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski: if you stop, the paraffin will quickly evaporate and the iron will damage the surface;
4. When the layer hardens (it takes 15-20 minutes), polishing is carried out - the excess is removed with a scraper. It is important not to change the level of inclination, otherwise pits will form on the surface;
5. If necessary, apply 1-2 more layers. Instead of paraffin, other ointments can be applied: accelerators, fluorocarbon powders;
6. Finally, the surface is polished. You can polish it with fiberlen (a special non-woven material), but you can also use a piece of felt or even woolen or nylon socks.

A few tips will help you understand how to prepare your skis at home in the most optimal way:

1. Inexpensive quick-apply lubricants can be used in place of paraffin. They are applied without ironing and polishing and “dry” in a few minutes. But they are enough for 5-7 km, after which the ointment will have to be applied again. This option is suitable for rarely skiing people - it will not work for a ski marathon;
2. It is equally important to check the fasteners in advance and, if necessary, carry out repairs. They must be clean, free of rust, cracks and other mechanical damage, have good fastening;
3. When choosing a lubricant, it is important to consider the final goal. For example, it is worth using the accelerator only when participating in races - in other cases it can only do harm;
4. On new skis or after machine sanding, factory pile often remains. You can remove it with fibertex, but this is not necessary: ​​usually the pile disappears after a few months of riding;
5. In order to not have to mess with the equipment, it is necessary to ensure that they are properly stored.

In order for skis to last longer and sports to be safe, it is necessary to properly care for the equipment and lubricate it regularly. Preparation should be regular, it is best to do it before each ride, and before the season it is worth fully checking the equipment. Preparation is important not only professional athletes, but also for amateurs, as well as owners of hunting skis.

How to choose skis for skating and not make a mistake? Choosing skis is not an easy task, especially for beginners. The purchase of this sports equipment requires the use of a competent, responsible and balanced approach.

How to choose skis for skating for a beginner?

The first difficulties may arise directly in the definition of products that are included in the category of cross-country. Often this type includes models that differ in structure from alpine skiing. At the same time, a beginner absolutely does not need professional skis for skating, at least based on their high cost.

A person who is just starting to ski, first of all, needs to decide on an affordable price category. The cost of individual models of skis for skating can range from $30 to $350. And even with a special wallet size, the most expensive models from reputable world manufacturers are not always the ideal solution.

What are the best skis for skating? The best solution for beginners can be cross-country skis for skating of domestic production. Firstly, the average quality of such models allows you to feel the whole range of positive emotions from skiing, and secondly, their cost is so affordable that you can use such skis without sparing, in almost any conditions.

Another important issue for a beginner is the selection of cross-country skis based on technical parameters: length, stiffness level, structural strength. It is these characteristics that are decisive when choosing any models.

The optimal length of skis for skating can be determined according to the classical calculation formula. To do this, you need to add 25-30 cm to the height of the skier, which will become an indicator of a suitable length.

As for the stiffness of skis, here it is necessary to focus on the weight of the skier. Under too heavy a rider, soft models will certainly sag, delivering a whole lot of inconvenience. With a low skier weight, too rigid equipment will slip with rather unpleasant feedback. To determine the optimal level of rigidity, it is enough to stand on the skis with full weight, after placing a thick sheet of paper under the binding area. A sufficient rigidity indicator is considered if the sheet can be moved under the sliding surface without much difficulty at a distance of about 30-40 cm in both directions.

The majority of buyers prefer to immediately purchase expensive skis for skating for entry-level riding, hoping for a comfortable feeling while riding based on the authority of a recognizable manufacturer. However, the reliability and high quality of expensive skis are justified by the need to achieve maximum speeds on the track. It is unlikely that a novice amateur will immediately be able to ride at such speeds using correct technique ride. Therefore, it makes no sense to spend money on buying a professional ski model for a person without much experience.

Manufacturing materials

When carrying out such a procedure as choosing skis for skating, choosing the right material remains an important issue for most beginners. Many of us have not yet forgotten the good old wooden models of Soviet-made cross-country skis, which at one time had practically no alternative. Therefore, some sports fans are extremely difficult to accept the need to switch to the use of modern plastic models. The main reason here is far from the rigidity of perception, but rather the lack of information about the features of the operation of such equipment.

Plastic skis for skating are not as simple as they might seem at first glance. Using such a model without proper preparation and maintenance, you can feel discomfort, convincing yourself of an unsuccessful purchase already on the first meters of the track.

In fact, plastic has improved sliding qualities compared to wood. Therefore, when choosing plastic cross-country skis, you need to be prepared for the need for regular lubrication of the sliding surface of the product, selecting the appropriate compositions and based on weather conditions and the nature of the terrain.

Plastic models of cross-country skis are much stronger than wooden ones and, accordingly, have an increased level of reliability. And if the owners of the former begin to cover their favorite inventory with the appearance of positive indicators on the thermometer, then the happy owners of plastic counterparts usually please themselves for some time with the continuation of the season.

How to choose skis for skating according to your riding style?

One of the defining moments in the selection of skis is the compliance of the chosen model with the style of skiing. It is recommended to consider individual features and configuration of skis, based on the nature of the future use of the purchased pair.

The selection of skis for skating should be carried out, focusing on the features of the riding style itself, which is characterized by the need to perform sweeping movements, the so-called "herringbone".

The main difference between classic skis and models for skating are the features of their lubrication. To achieve the most uniform glide, the surface skating they are treated with primers in the form of holding ointments, lubricated with paraffin along the entire length, additionally treated with special sliding lubricants. At the same time, such processing is unacceptable for classic ski models, the sliding surface of which, on the contrary, is skinned to achieve greater grip, after which it is covered with a holding lubricant.

To choose skis for skating that will be used for cross-country riding, you need to pay attention to the most durable products that can withstand significant loads.

In general, experts recommend purchasing several sets of skis for traditional, skating and cross-country skiing. It is this solution that will allow you to avoid difficulties and discomfort, having the opportunity to switch from one move to another.

ski boots

The most important process, along with the direct selection of cross-country skis, is the selection of a whole range of necessary accessories: bindings, boots, poles, etc. Innovative Models ski boots are not just special shoes for comfortable connection with skis, but also products that can protect the feet from certain loads and maintain a balance of heat.

In the production of modern ski boots, the anatomical features of the foot of skiers and the natural requirements of hygiene are taken into account. The selection of high-quality, reliable boots is the key to a comfortable, successful ride. A responsible approach to the selection of shoes eliminates the need to be distracted by all sorts of inconveniences in the form of squeezed fingers or wet feet.

Currently, there are several main categories of ski boots:

1. Classic models - traditionally used on ski models that are used for classic skiing.
2. Skating boots - the structure and functionality of this equipment corresponds to the features of skating.
3. Combined models - can be used for riding in various styles, thanks to the presence of a convenient removable cuff.

Mounts

When choosing skis for skating, you need to think about the selection of suitable bindings. To date, there are standard and profile types of fasteners.

Standard bindings involve connection with boots using holes for which there are connectors on the soles of special boots. Such bindings also have ledges, due to which, in fact, the ski boots are securely fixed.

The profile systems have rubber elements of different stiffness, which ensures high efficiency of repulsion when running. Under the profile boots, there are several separate mounting options - NNN and SNS. The difference between these types of profile fasteners lies in the number of recesses. There are two in NNN format mounts, and only one in SNS mounts.

ski poles

picking up best skis for skating, you should pay attention to the choice of the most convenient, effective sticks. In many ways, the choice of sticks depends on the style of riding. The classic style of riding is best suited to the choice of poles, the length of which reaches the armpits, and for the "horse" it is recommended to select poles that are shoulder height.

The ideal solution can be considered the selection of sticks with an anatomically adjusted lanyard and large paws. The presence of these characteristics makes it possible to ride for a long time, practically without feeling tired or uncomfortable in the hands.

How to prepare skis for skating?

The preparation of skis for skating involves, first of all, the creation of a sliding surface structure that best matches the nature of the snow. For this, the outer plane of the skis is treated with special substances in the form of ointments and paraffin, which are selected based on weather conditions.

First of all, a solid holding ointment is applied to the sliding surface of the skis. The procedure is carried out in the following order:

• the outer plane of the skis is processed with sandpaper, which helps to improve grip due to raising the pile;
• a ground heated ointment is applied with a consistency that is most appropriate for weather conditions;
• the ointment is leveled with an iron of medium temperature;
• after solidification, subsequent layers of ointment are applied in the holding area and leveled with a synthetic stopper.

Applying paraffin to the surface of the skis

Lubrication of skis for skating in the presence of sufficiently soft paraffin can be done by applying it to a sliding surface in a cold form. If ski processing occurs with the use of hard paraffin, in this case, they resort to heating the lubricant with an iron. Alternatively, lubrication of skis for skating can be done by briefly heating a bar of hard paraffin, followed by smooth strokes of the skis.

Such an amount of paraffin should be applied to the ski so that, in the molten form, the lubricant spreads evenly over the entire sliding surface, and the layer of the substance should be no more than 1 mm. It is leveled with the same hot iron.

Preparing skis for skating by applying lubricant in the form of paraffin heated with an iron is the most dangerous procedure. With a careless approach to the operation, there is a high probability of overheating, deformation and burning of high-molecular plastic. Therefore, when applying paraffin, it is strongly recommended to set the minimum possible temperature of the iron, at which the existing paraffin can be melted.

It is necessary to run the iron along the sliding surface of the skis smoothly and without delay. At the same time, there must be a layer of paraffin between the plastic and the sole of the iron, because the plastic quickly burns in the presence of direct contact with the heated surface of the iron. Based on this, it is not worth saving on paraffin consumption, as this often leads to more serious material losses in the form of damage to equipment.

Cleaning the ski surface with special brushes

In cases where the entire length of skis for skating is machined on special grinding machines, it becomes possible to form a complex large or small surface microstructure. Such processing contributes to the optimal removal of liquid and air when the ski comes into contact with snow, which ensures the best glide.

After removing the remnants of the old paraffin with the help of scrapers, with the advent of the new season, there are enough small grooves filled with grease. To restore the original structure of the ski surface, wax residues should be removed with rotary or manual brushes. The most effective may be the use of hard metal or nylon brushes, which are distinguished by a thin pile.

When cleaning the sliding surface from paraffin with brushes, it is not recommended to be too zealous, making sudden movements or excessive pressure, so as not to damage the plastic structure. Most effectively, the bristles of metal and nylon brushes clean off paraffin residues when they are placed at right angles to the surface to be treated.

1. To apply the base layer in the form of a primer, it is better to use a special iron, since most irons for ironing linen do not allow you to set the optimum temperature.
2. The delay of the heated sole of the iron at one point on the ski surface often, unfortunately, leads to burning and deformation of the plastic.
3. Before applying a slip wax when preparing skis for skiing, you should activate the surface by once again treating it with a brush.
4. When preparing skis for skiing in frosts, it is better to resort to creating a fine structure of the sliding surface, and in warm weather - to use a large surface texture.
5. Of great importance in the preparation of a sliding surface is the use of trial and error. In other words, worth a try personal experience different combinations of lubricants for different weather conditions.
6. Before the need for long-term storage of skis, you should not clean off the old paraffin, which will act as protection for the sliding surface in the off-season.
7. It is recommended that you initially take extreme care of your skis, because only in this case you can hope for their long service life and getting maximum pleasure in the process of skiing.

Every fan wants to extend the life of their favorite skis winter views sports. To extend the life of cross-country skis for more than one year, it is important to properly and competently care for them.

What does the term "cross-country ski care" include? Let's figure it out.

Care is based on the same principle as: we properly operate, store and transport in special cases, monitor the condition of the sliding surface and process it in time. True, you will have to use lubricants here more often.

Preparing new cross-country skis

The primary processing of cross-country skis after purchase occurs as follows:

• remove the layer of ground paraffin;
• we process the sliding surface with rigid fibertex;
• we apply paraffin and evenly distribute it with a special iron in the direction from toe to heel, without delay;
• remove excess paraffin with a scraper;
• brush the surface.

Further care will include conservation for the summer (cleaning and paraffin) and periodic lubrication. This is if you bought cross-country skis without notches. Notched models do not require lubrication.

Treatment of cross-country skis - ointments

With skis for lubrication (without notches), the situation is more complicated. Each weather has its own types of lubrication. Terms of use, temperature regime and method of application are indicated on the boxes. It is important to follow the instructions carefully. For most amateurs, it is enough to process skis once a month or with a sharp change in weather. Professionals do this before every race.

Separately, it should be said that there are 2 types of ski waxes - slip waxes and holding waxes for classic models (they prevent kickback and slippage). Skating cross-country skis are treated with sliding ointments as a whole, in the direction from toe to heel. Ointment holding on classic skis applied only in the middle part - on a section about 65-75 cm long under the fasteners. For the front and back parts, slip ointment is used.

Holding ointments can be either liquid or solid. Solid ointments must be freed from the jar and foil, rubbed with them on the holding area on cross-country skis. Further, with synthetic rubbing, the ointment is rubbed to a thin, even layer. It is better to apply several thin layers than 1-2 thick ones.

Liquid ointments must be squeezed out of the tube on both sides of the groove, and then leveled with a scraper or thumb. Next, the layer, again, is rubbed with synthetic rubbing until even. In the case of liquid ointments, a thick layer is just preferable.

To clean old grease, special solvent washes are required. First, the old ointment is removed with a scraper, then the remnants are removed with a richly moistened paper towel.

Proper ski care is a guarantee of comfortable skiing, as well as your safety and equipment durability.

Like an amateur in skiing, will confirm that success in this sporting event largely depends on the correct preparation of the equipment. The ski preparation itself has a number of nuances and important features. For best results, they need to be properly cleaned and lubricated. Therefore, it is important to prepare equipment in a timely manner.

General Features

The process of preparing skis for serious competitions requires some knowledge and practical skills. Moreover, the team of professional skiers always includes trained people who are responsible for one or another stage of equipment preparation, perform it depending on the current environmental conditions - the level of air humidity, temperature, and others.

Ski preparation is important both for professionals before serious starts, and for lovers of this sport. First of all, the emphasis is on sliding.

It is important to note that both new skis and those that have been skied many times need to be prepared.

The main types of skis

In the preparation of each type of ski, there are a number of features that must certainly be taken into account. So, during the preparation of cross-country skiing, emphasis is placed on the best glide. But if the classical style is supposed to be used, such a factor as holding is also taken into account. If the preparation is carried out in accordance with all the rules, then even a skier with minimal experience will certainly get the maximum pleasure from skiing.

In the preparation of alpine skis, it is important not only the quality of their sliding surface, but also the edges. They must be processed through special compounds, as well as sharpened. This guarantees maximum safety during descents from the mountain slopes.

The nuances of professional ski training

First of all, the correct priming of the directly sliding surface is required. It is relevant primarily for the preparation of skis for skating, as well as for their other types.

After priming the surface, it is necessary to apply graphite paraffin to it. This manipulation is carried out using the so-called hot method. Due to the presence of paraffin, one of the components of which is graphite, the displacement of the very first lubricant layer is excluded. In addition, this guarantees an increase in the wear resistance of the lubricant itself.

At the next stage, the sliding surface is exposed to a special rotary-type brush made of horsehair. Next, the effect is performed with a metal brush of a manual type of hair in which it is already thin.

Now you can apply paraffin based on actual weather conditions. This is also done hot. First of all, the surface is covered with a layer of low fluoride substance, which will provide an excellent bond with the first layers.

As soon as the ski has cooled down, the steps to remove excess paraffin and brushing are repeated. The next layer is paraffin, which contains a high proportion of fluorine. Completes the preparation with a fluorocarbon lubricant. It is chosen, also focusing on real weather conditions.

Features of work with any fluorocarbon lubricant

This substance has a number of features, regardless of whether it is released in the form of an emulsion, powder or accelerator. Therefore, experts recommend working with it only using a separate set of brushes.

The procedure and nuances of preparing skis intended for skating

As mentioned above, depending on the type of skis, their preparation may differ slightly. In this case, work begins with cleaning the equipment. To do this, the surface is cleaned with a brass or steel brush. This will ensure sufficient opening of the pores located directly on the sliding surface.

The next stage in the preparation of skis for skating is the application of a paraffin layer on them. To make it lie evenly, the surface is affected with a slightly heated iron.

Features of applying paraffin on skis

It is important to understand that the application of paraffin is a responsible and unsafe process. This feature is just determined by the need to use an iron. If you do not calculate the effort, then the necessary layer of paraffin between the surface of the equipment and the iron itself simply will not remain. Skis will be damaged.

It is enough to fix it with a ski preparation machine. The iron heats up to 60 degrees. Next, paraffin is successively applied and distributed on the working surface. Usually three layers are enough, each of which is carefully fused.

Removing wax from a ski

The next step is to get rid of excess grease. There is a special scraper for this. As soon as the stage is completed, it is necessary to repeat the operation, but with the help of a brush.

Features of removing paraffin from a sliding surface are as follows:

1. Work begins with the use of a scraper.
2. It is important not to change the degree of pressure when processing a particular area, otherwise the ski will be cleaned unevenly.
3. At the end of the stage, for better removal of the substance, the work continues with the use of a brush with active and fast movements of the tool.
4. When it becomes necessary to remove the initial layer of paraffin, an iron is used.

The need to completely remove the lubricant previously applied to the skis arises only in cases where they do not ride well enough. This is usually a sign of improper equipment preparation before riding. After removing the base layer from the surface, all manipulations are repeated.

Features of cross-country skiing

In practice, the preparation of cross-country skis is usually carried out in the factory using special units equipped with an abrasive stone or tape. New skis need final processing, it is also performed several times throughout the season.

The settings of the grinding equipment are selected based on the required surface structure, determined by the characteristics of the snow cover. So, skis will not glide well if their surface is dry, melted, or excessively smooth and shiny.

Usually, to improve the sliding properties, they resort to applying a special pattern to the working surface, the so-called structure. This can be done not only manually, but also with the use of special grinding units. No less important in ensuring normal sliding is such a processing step as removing the pile. This can be done both on a special machine and manually.

The preparation of cross-country skis should ideally be done before each exit separately. After all, the conditions for temperature and humidity of the environment may well change.

Experts assure that for a walk on good snow, it is enough to carefully treat the sliding surface with paraffin - this will be enough for a distance of 15-20 km. But after applying paraffin to the skis, they become prone to abrasion, perfectly absorb dirt. This is manifested in the whitening of the working surface, followed by the acquisition of a pronounced gray tint. Therefore, it is so important to clean the skis well before applying a new layer of paraffin.

Structure is important for cross-country skis, so their preparation is always completed by applying a certain pattern to the sliding surface, taking into account the depth and pitch of the grooves.

The procedure for preparing classic type skis

Preparation of alpine skiing for competitions or regular skiing always begins with cleaning the working surface from grease. To do this, they are fixed in a ski preparation machine. After cleaning the surface of dirt and previously applied lubricants, the block is prepared, which involves the application of ointment.

It is best applied cold in several layers. For a complete grinding of the substance, a profile machine is suitable. It is important to perform all movements actively.

Against the background of friction, the process of heat generation will begin, the substance will be evenly distributed.

If a liquid ointment is used, a shortened block is required. This is explained by the fact that it has an increased coefficient of adhesion with snow relative to solid ointment. Typically, the use of a liquid component shortens the block by 15 cm.

Also, the length of the block depends on the degree of rigidity of the skis themselves.

Thus, for comfortable riding and achieving best results it is important to prepare the equipment correctly and, most importantly, in a timely manner. The features of this manipulation are determined by the type of ski along with the actual weather conditions.

MBOU "Basic comprehensive school No. 17 of Zelenodolsk

Republic of Tatarstan.

METHODOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT

Preparation of skis for skating and classic skiing.

physical culture teacher

MBOU secondary school No. 17

2014

How to lubricate your skis.

This question always arises among those who stand on plastic skis. There are two types of lubricants - sliding and holding. For skating, sliding lubricants are used over the entire surface of the ski. For the “classics”, slip lubricants are applied to the nose and heel of the skis, usually paraffin. And the central part of the ski (block) is lubricated with a holding ointment so that there is no recoil. The length of the block is 50 - 70 cm. The principle of the holding ointment: the skier glides, but at the same time it “slows down” at the moment of push. It must be applied with an "increase". So, if it is -5 outside the window, then we put the ointment with a temperature of -1 + 1 or -2-0. After lubrication, the skis should cool down to ambient temperature. Before applying the ointment, the old grease must be removed. It is better to apply 2-5 thin layers, rubbing each layer with a cork.

A few tips for preparing your skis.

1. Use a special ointment iron. The iron for clothes does not give the exact temperature.

2. Remember: the iron must not be kept on one area of ​​the surface. Stopping the iron or repeatedly moving along one point of the sliding surface leads to plastic burning.

3. Before applying the ski wax, activate the surface by gently running a brass brush from the toe to the heel of the ski.

4. After scraping off excess paraffin with a scraper, brush the sliding surface as thoroughly as possible.

5. Solvent should only be used on the grip areas and face of the ski. Never use it on areas where slip ointment is applied.

6. In cold weather, it is better to use a fine structure of the sliding surface, in warm weather, a large structure.

7. When using a klister, the holding area should be reduced by 3-4 cm.

8. Try different combinations of ointments during training and you will be better prepared for the competition.

9. Before long-term storage, ALWAYS apply paraffin wax and do not peel it off, it must remain on the sliding surface, protecting it.

10. Take care of your skis and skiing will always be a pleasure.

Ski selection.

Now skis with a plastic sliding surface are mainly sold. A person who rides on wooden skis, when switching to plastic ones, usually encounters a very unpleasant phenomenon - a strong kickback that turns skiing from pleasure into real torment. This is because plastic skis are much more slippery than wood skis. Firstly, when rubbing against snow, a tree is pretty disheveled, which practically does not happen with plastic, and then remember how wooden skis used to be smeared with holding ointment along the entire length, only a little warmer ointment was sometimes added under the block. These two factors ensured the absence of tangible returns. Now, when buying plastic skis, many people naively believe that they do not need to be smeared, or they put ointment under the block that corresponds to the temperature on the thermometer outside the window, as they used to smear wooden ones. So, recoil on plastic skis can be avoided, but we'll talk more about this in the section on lubrication. And in terms of sliding qualities, plastic is much better than wood. In addition, the plastic sliding surface is much more durable. And if on wooden skis it’s not worth even trying to go into positive temperatures, then on plastic your season can become much longer. So plastic skis are still better.

A good ski should bend evenly, in proportion to the applied effort. Otherwise, excessive pressure on the snow may appear in certain areas of the ski, which will lead to ski braking and rapid lubrication in these areas.

"People's" way to determine the rigidity. The average person has to push the skis with both hands until they completely touch the sliding plastic under the block. If it doesn’t crush, then the skis are definitely tough for him.

For skating ski gap when compressed with one hand should be more - 1.5 - 2 mm. And if you determine on the floor with a piece of paper, then under the very boot the piece of paper should move a little or be easily pulled out if you transferred the weight to one ski.

Choice of ski boots

If funds allow, then take shoes with Rotefella NNN or Salomon SNS soles. This is much more convenient than the old systems with welts. If you intend to try your hand at skating style, then take models for skating, with a high rigid cuff that wraps around the ankle. Or combined, similar in appearance to skating, but with the ability to remove the plastic cuff, after which you can run classics in them. When choosing, pay attention primarily to the comfort of the boot. Different manufacturers use different lasts, one may be perfect for your feet. Tourist class boots are suitable for skiing in the forest. Only take bindings under the appropriate sole (NNN or SNS). Shoes with such a sole, in fact, have only one drawback. If you walk a lot in them on asphalt, then the plastic of the sole on the toe of the boot is erased almost to the metal bracket that enters the groove of the mounts. Most likely, the bracket will not be able to fall out - it is quite deeply embedded in the sole, but the strength characteristics of the seal will deteriorate, and the shoes will lose their presentation.

Choice of ski poles

Most modern poles are made from carbon fiber and fiberglass in varying proportions. 100% carbon fiber poles are light and tough. 100% fiberglass poles are not as stiff, bend and break more easily, and weigh a little more. Mid-range poles can be made from a mixture of fiberglass and carbon fiber. Fiberglass poles are fine for kids and beginners who don't have much strength or weight.

Plastic sticks sometimes break. This can happen when falling on a stick or when relying on a stick with all your weight when you lose balance, though not always. If your weight is high, then take more durable sticks with a high percentage of carbon fiber or aluminum. Modern aluminum poles look the same as composite poles.

Height, cm Skate, cm Classic, see

Ski waxing

There are two main types of lubricants: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For a classic course, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated with glide lubricants, usually paraffins. And the central part of the ski (block) is lubricated with a holding ointment so that there is no recoil. The length of the block is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the block by another 10-20 cm to the toe of the ski.

Skis for skating are lubricated along the entire length with glide lubricants.

Minimum professional preparation of one pair: cleaning with soft paraffin (application, removal with a plastic scraper, brushing), then applying 1-2 layers of weather paraffin (application, cooling the ski to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removal with a plastic scraper, brushing, polishing) . That is at least half an hour.

Ski waxes

Lubricants come in a variety of types. Most often, paraffins are used, and in professional sports accelerators (powders or pressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. are also used. Such lubricants are consumed quite quickly. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not take imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are no worse, and often better (except that some go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But it doesn't make sense to take too much. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather .... In professional lubrication, this is solved by rolling back paraffins, but lovers do not need to torture themselves with a choice.

For humid climates, fluorinated gels, pastes, sprays, or emulsions are good. Apply to a sliding surface with a cotton swab or spray, dry or warm with a hair dryer, then polish. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: expensive, quickly consumed, last up to 10-15 km.

Ski waxes

Holding ointments are solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). The holding ointment must meet two requirements. First - the ointment should allow you to push. When pushing under the block, additional pressure is created on the snow, and snow crystals enter the layer of holding ointment, the ski "sticks" to the snow, which allows you to push. After the push, the crystals should come out of the ointment, which will allow the ski to glide. When a skier glides on one ski, the pressure under the block is also present, but at the same time the ointment should allow one to slide on one ski and "brake" only at the moment of push. Therefore, the selection of the optimal holding ointment, which provides the best combination of holding and sliding, is not an easy task in professional sports. Alternation of layers of different ointments is used, their imposition in a checkerboard pattern and other techniques.

Liquid ointments are often called klisters. The klister is applied in a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (it is difficult to do in the cold, it is better at home).

Klister may be needed for positive temperatures. But he gets very dirty. Before you put your skis in a bag when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to ruin the bag. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are vertical, then it begins to slowly flow down them. So after skiing, it is better to remove the klister immediately with a wash (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry rag).

In sub-zero temperatures, solid ointments usually work well.

Necessary tools for preparing skis and their substitutes

Now about the necessary set of tools.

If you take skis with a racing base (sometimes called a sliding surface), which is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be depicted from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at a high temperature, you automatically burn out the base (sliding surface), that is, you melt the pores, and the paraffin stops being absorbed into the base.

New skis, regardless of whether you later use hot paraffin wax or not, it is still better to process using an iron for the first time. In extreme cases, you can get by with a household iron (just don’t ruin a good one, take an old condo one, without holes in the sole). In this case, be careful - have a large damp cloth handy. If suddenly the paraffin smokes, you can quickly reduce the temperature of the soleplate of the iron by applying a rag to it and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft plus paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the temperature regulator of the iron to the minimum at which the paraffin normally melts, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the toe to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat, and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski all the time. It is better to lead a household iron sideways, with a wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron.

Additional ski accessories

Another desirable item is a ski bag. Firstly, there will be somewhere to store skis, and, most importantly, you will not get dirty with holding ointment while you get to the ski track. It is very difficult to clean it from clothes without a solvent or wash. Take a cover for 2-3 pairs. It holds both skis and poles.

It's a good idea to take Velcro ski bundles. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski during transportation will be damaged by poles or bindings of another pair. If you go to the ski track not far, then in this case you can carry skis without a case. O Skis that are tied together are harder to get dirty. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the ligament is between the sliding surfaces of the skis, they should not touch.

Rags. To process the skis, you will need old cotton rags. They wipe the sole of the iron dry after applying paraffins, clean the scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a wash, brush off the remaining paraffin after passing through with a scraper and brushes, and so on. Even polishing the ski after applying paraffins, at worst, can be done with a rag without strong pressure.

How to store skis

Since most ski models, especially mass-produced ones, use wood, you should not store your skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. Lubricants should also not be stored near heat sources or in the sun.

Which ski waxes are best for ski preparation

Depending on your level of training, there are three sets of lubricants that are enough for skiing.

Minimum.

This kit will be enough for you to comfortably walk through the forest on plastic skis without recoil and sticking. It is not necessary to buy paraffins, irons, brushes and other tools. It is quite enough to buy a set of holding ointments and smear the skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork so that there is no recoil. For walks, this is quite enough, the skis will glide even without paraffin.

Here is what is included in the required minimum kit:

3 - 4 jars (briquettes) holding ointment covering the temperature range from 0 to -15 degrees and one cork or synthetic rubbing.

Just keep in mind that with such a lubricant (solid ointments) you should not go skiing at a positive temperature, because with a plus you will need liquid holding ointments (klisters).

Sufficient.

This kit will allow you to competently and fully care for your skis. This kit is enough for the eyes not only for comfortable riding through the forest in any weather, but also to participate in most mass ski races such as "Ski Track of Russia". It includes the same as in the minimum kit, inexpensive paraffins, an iron, a brush, a wash can, a plastic scraper, a set of liquid ointments. It is highly desirable to add a special ski machine to this kit - it will allow you not only to prepare your skis very decently, but also to enjoy this process. (If you wish, you can make the machine yourself from improvised pieces of wood, scraps of a tourist rug or something similar, and a few pieces of iron and screws to secure the skis).

Advanced.

This kit may be needed by an already quite advanced and trained skier. To all of the above, you can add a set of holding ointmentswith fluorine content(solid and liquid), as well as paraffinswith fluorine content(This lubricant is especially effective in high humidity conditions). You can also buy antistatic paraffins (needed to remove static electricity from the sliding surface of skis), accelerators (powdered and pure fluorocarbons in the form of tablets), knurling (to apply a weather-appropriate structure to the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. Also, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have lubricants from different companies in their arsenal, since ointments often from completely different manufacturers work well in different weather. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its cost increases many times compared to the cost of the first two kits combined.

Preparation of skis for skating and the sliding part of classic skis.

To ensure the best glide, the ski surface must have a surface structure that matches the structure of the snow, and the surface must also be coated with glide wax / paraffins appropriate to the weather conditions. Only with optimal matching of the structure of the sliding surface and sliding ointments can the best glide of skis be obtained. The structure of the sliding surface is a pattern that is formed on the plastic of the ski after processing on a matte grinder or after scraping a metal cycle. A special pattern on the surface can also be applied with a hand tool - knurling or cutting. A sliding surface with fine, fine structure is suitable for cold weather with fine-grained snow, for warm weather and coarse-grained snow, a large deep structure is used.

How to apply paraffin wax on a ski.

If the paraffin is soft enough, then you can simply spread it on the ski cold.
If the paraffin is hard, then it is fused from the surface of the iron to the ski.

Or you can briefly heat the paraffin bar on the iron and quickly make a smear of the heated paraffin bar on the ski.

In any case, enough paraffin should be applied to the ski so that the molten paraffin spreads evenly over the entire surface of the ski with a layer of 0.3 - 1 mm.

The applied paraffin is melted and leveled on the ski with a hot iron.

Paraffin treatment with an iron is the most dangerous procedure for a ski, with it the high-molecular plastic of the sliding surface can be overheated and burned.

The temperature of the iron should be chosen as low as possible, at which paraffin melts. Move the iron over the surface quickly, without delays and frequent repetitions.
There should always be a layer of paraffin between the sole of the iron and the sliding plastic, with direct contact of the sole of the iron with the plastic of the ski, the plastic burns out very quickly, the burnt places swell and a characteristic matte pattern appears on the surface. Therefore, in no case should you "save" paraffin, this can lead to much more serious losses - ski failure.

When changing the paraffin and simply when using the iron for a long time, its surface must be cleaned with a rag.

Preparation of the sliding surface using paraffins.

Surface cleaning.

1. Treat the skis several times with a brush, steel or brass, or fibertex, removing burrs and opening the pores of the sliding surface. Move the brush only in one direction from the toe to the heel of the ski.

1. Apply one layer of heated ground wax and smooth with an iron at low temperature.
2. clean the surfacescraper

After scraping, there is still a significant amount of paraffin on the surface of the ski, which accumulates mainly in plastic structures and scratches, to remove it, brush the surface.
The surface is cleaned of dirt and you can proceed with the main phase - the application of base and sliding paraffins.

Surface preparation.

1. Apply 1 to 3 layers of purple wax. After applying each layer, the paraffin should cool for 15-20 minutes. After cooling, the surface is treated with a scraper and a nylon brush.
2. For performance at competitions, a layer of graphite wax is always applied before the gliding wax. .
3. Apply paraffin appropriate for the weather, scrape and brush to polish the surface.
4. If necessary, apply to the surfaceappropriate knurling.

1. Now the skis are ready. GOOD LUCK!

Application of accelerators.

1. Apply paraffin for the given weather.
2. Apply an accelerator.
3. Rub with natural cork by hand until the surface is warm.
4. Set the ski aside, preferably for 20 minutes.
5. Scrub the surface with a brush.
6. For better wear resistance, repeat 2-5 times.
7. The applied accelerator works effectively at a distance of 5 to 10 km.

Application of fluorocarbon powders.

1. Prepare the sliding surface and apply base wax. Scrap the paraffin with a scraper and brush.
2. Apply paraffin for the given weather. Scrap the paraffin with a scraper and brush.
3. Sprinkle the fluorocarbon powder evenly over the sliding surface.
4. Run the iron evenly over the sliding surface once, melting the powder. The temperature of the iron should correspond to the temperature indicated in the manual for the powder.
5. Set the ski aside for 20 minutes, preferably longer.
6. Finish the surface with horsehair and nylon brushes, ideally just before riding.

application of emulsions.

1. Apply base wax. Scrap and rub with a brush.
2. Apply paraffin for the given weather. Scrap and rub with a brush.
3. Apply the emulsion to the slip area, let it dry for 5-10 minutes.
4. Rub with natural cork (by hand) or rotary brush until the surface is warm.
5. Skis must stand for 20 minutes.
6. Finish the surface with a brush. It is necessary to rub harder than usual, since the composition of the emulsion includes fluorine with a more rigid structure, which requires rubbing with more effort.

Application of a solid holding ointment.

1. Treat the holding area with fine sandpaper to raise the pile and improve the adhesion of the ointment to the surface. Now the holding wax will stay on the surface of the ski longer.
2. For the bottom layer, use a ground ointment. Apply one layer of heated ointment, selected according to weather conditions.
3. Smooth the ointment with an iron, after thoroughly cleaning it from the remnants of other ointments.
4. Choose a holding ointment depending on weather conditions.
5. Apply 4-6 thin, even coats to the holding area. Rub with synthetic cork after each coat.

Application of liquid ointment - klister.

1. Clean the holding area as before applying the solid ointment.
2. Try to apply the klister in a warm room. Apply a thin layer of klister, on top of the klister for the given weather. Use a hair dryer to warm up the klister. Avoid ski contact with open flames.
3. Skis should cool down in the fresh air before skiing.

Cleaning the sliding surface.

1. The holding area is easiest to clean by removing the remaining solid ointment or klister with an acrylic scraper. Use ski solvent. Wait 20-30 seconds for it to take effect. Wipe the cleaned surface with paper.
2. The sliding surface also needs to be cleaned several times during the winter. Apply ground wax and melt it. The dirt will rise to the surface and can be scraped off with a scraper along with the rest of the paraffin while it is still warm. Apply paraffin according to weather conditions. Try not to use solvent to clean the sliding surface, as after its application it is necessary to re-apply ground wax to the surface. When using a klister and getting it on a sliding surface, it must be cleaned with a solvent.

Why brush a sliding surface?

Machine processing of the sliding surface of modern skis on special grinding machines gives it a complex character and creates both fine and larger surface microstructure. This structure of the surface allows better removal of air and water when the ski rubs against the snow, which ensures optimal glide quality. Therefore, it is very important to completely clean out the remnants of the ointment that filled the grooves of the surface structure, otherwise the required glide quality will not be achieved.
After applying paraffin and removing its residues with a scraper, the grooves of the structure remain completely filled with paraffin. In order for the structure to "manifest", the paraffin residues must be removed using special brushes - manual or rotary.
The use of relatively hard nylon or metal brushes with fine hair allows you to completely remove paraffin residues from the sliding surface, thereby providing a full "manifestation" of the structure applied with an abrasive stone.

	This is how the sliding surface of the ski looks like after removing the remaining paraffin with a scraper. Grooves of coarse and fine structure are almost completely filled with solidified paraffin.
	Ski surface after initial brushing. Remains of paraffin are visible in the depth of the grooves.
	Optimally finished surface. The grooves of the structure and microstructure are completely freed from paraffin residues with a metal brush.

When removing paraffin residues, do not press the brush too hard against the surface to be treated. This applies to both manual and rotary brushes.
The bristles of the brush are most effective in removing paraffin from the sliding surface only when they are located at right angles to it. If you press the brush against the ski with a lot of force, the bristles will bend and slide over the surface, instead of cleaning off the remaining paraffin from it.

Brushes, both manual and rotary, are also used to clean the sliding surface of old grease and prepare it for the application of new grease. Brushes with metal bristles (steel or brass) are best suited for this purpose. Hard bristles of a metal brush remove dirt, old grease residues, and also remove plastic oxidation products and help open the pores of the sliding surface, thereby improving its ability to absorb new grease.
Another purpose of brushes with metal pile is to improve the properties of the sliding surface of skis that have been processed on a grinding machine. After the ski has been brushed with a metal bristle and then “finished” with fibertex, the surface structure becomes more regular, the grooves are cleaned of dirt and burrs. For this purpose, brushes with hard (steel) bristles are best suited.