And an important element of equipment are skiing. And the question of choice is especially acute for those who are just going to master the technique of skiing.
Properly choose skiing for beginners will help the advice of workers in this area. Depending on the characteristics and basic parameters of alpine skis, they are selected according to the skill level of the skier.
It is worth noting that alpine skis differ from each other in the shape of the nose, heels, the narrowness of the middle part and the softness of the products. These quality characteristics give alpine skiing stability with a smooth ride and make them convenient for learning and developing techniques.
On a note:
Types of skiing
Alpine skiing classification - the dependence of ski types on the parameters and characteristics of ski equipment. From the article you will find out what kind of alpine skiing you ride and how they differ from other varieties.
Important characteristics of alpine skiing
However, it is important to focus not only on the model of the product, but also on a number of its technical characteristics:
- Lenght and width
According to the structural structure, alpine skis differ in length and width.· long skis - They have the ability to develop high speed when skiing on a plane;
- Give greater stability to the position of the body;
- They drop speed well due to the increased length of the ski edge when descending from the mountains.
· shorter skis - Lighter in mass, nimble on hillocks and more maneuverable on icing;
- Increase the ability to make more turns on the slopes of small or too narrow tracks;
- They exert specific pressure on the edge, deepening into the snow surface.
· wide skis - Develop a stable speed on flat slopes of the tracks;
- They overcome deep snow and virgin lands well, which is a huge advantage when skiing through the forest on unequipped tracks.
Useful article:
Selection of skis by height
How to choose the right skis for your height? An article about how important a well-chosen ski length is and why. We have given important recommendations that you should follow when choosing ski equipment.
The main problem faced by those who wish to purchase their own ski kit is the ability to combine the good characteristics of mountain skis with their level of skiing and versatility for ski slopes of any complexity.
- Rigidity
The stiffness of mountain skis is understood as its ability to deflect under the influence of the body weight of the skier. Rigidity is primarily responsible for handling, i.e. how difficult / easy it will be for the skier to cope with his skis when skiing on the slopes of the mountain. Hard directional skis with high values of this characteristic are more for professional skiers who have impulsiveness and powerful alpine skiing with skillful turns from turn to turn.
- Vibration damping, flexibility, torsion stability
Based on the characteristics when choosing skis, you need to know other features such as vibration damping, flexibility and torsional stability.· vibration damping - Vibration damping is determined by the behavior of the ski when gaining medium or high speed. Most of the vibration absorption increases the accuracy of movement on arcuate tracks, gives additional stability when passing bumps and at the same time the edge cuts well into the ice surface, which thereby gives stability to skis when skiing at high speeds.
· flexibility - Flexibility gives springy and elastic bending of the ski under the influence of the weight of the skier.
· torsion stability - High-quality ski assembly, taking into account resistance to deformation, determines the torsional rigidity of the skier's stability, and is one of the main features.
- Advantages:
Facilitates riding at low speeds (automatic tip and heel counter) and simplifies skating mistakes. - Flaws:
The low torsional stiffness of the ski keeps it on ice somewhat worse.
- Advantages:
Recommendations and tips:
How to choose skiing?
Here - we will tell and explain in an understandable language how to choose skiing when buying. Let us point out the important points that cannot be dispensed with when choosing skis for skiing on the ski slopes.
- Turning radius and sidecut
The turning radius is the main characteristic by which the ability of certain skis to turn while passing along the slopes is determined. Larger side cuts with reduced radius for better arcing with controlled speed. Conversely, with a smaller sidecut and a larger turning radius, the skis go straighter and add speed when skiing.
Advantages of skis with a deep sidecut and a small radius:- Easily fit into a turn;
- Steadily keep the trajectory of movement on the ice surface and steeper slope.
- On ice, when the edge slips along the ice, they lose stability;
- They glide a little worse on uneven terrain and mounds.
- Waist Width
Of no small importance in alpine skiing is such a characteristic as the width of the waist of alpine skis. This indicator determines the behavior of skis when passing through deep snow or ice. Therefore, a narrow waist contributes to the development of high speed when changing edges, easy fit into turns and increased handling. Wide waist helps tread through deeper snow; - Toe and heel width
Important for lovers of ski holidays and the role of the length of the toe of skis. The wider the tip of the ski, the more confident the skier enters the turn. Such skis give an advantage when passing tracks intended for slalom trials. Such a characteristic as the width of the heel of the ski is also important for lovers of slalom and carving. The wider the heel, the better the arc at the end of the turning maneuver;
- Operating speed range
The operating speed range is considered satisfactory if the alpine skis make the correct course in an arc. Wide ranges of working speeds give the skis versatility.
Good riding!
We hope our article was useful to you.
Before looking at specific skis, you need to decide what you plan to do on the slopes.
How to choose skiing for the intended purpose
Carving or piste skis (Carving)
Dynastar carving skis. evo.comThese skis are designed for skiing on ready-made ski slopes, they allow you to easily enter sharp turns and ride with carving equipment - not on the entire sliding surface, but only on the edges (narrow metal strips along the edges of the ski, with which turns are made).
Unlike racing skis, carving skis are softer and can be ridden with imperfect technique. Therefore, they can be chosen by beginners and those who prefer prepared slopes.
What to buy
Skis for professional racing (Racing)
Salomon racing skis. evo.com These are special carving skis for slalom (SL), giant slalom (GS), super slalom (SG) and downhill (DH). Models are very different in geometry and features, designed for athletes and cost a lot.
What to buy
Universal skis (All-mountain, All-terrain)
Universal skis Armada. evo.com These skis are suitable for skiing on compacted slopes, and for freeride on virgin lands, and for downhill skiing. Such skis are inferior to specialized ones, but their capabilities are quite enough for comfortable amateur skiing.
What to buy
Freeride skis (Big-mountain, Backcountry)
Skis for freeride Salomon. evo.com These are wider skis for skiing on unprepared slopes. The increased width of the skis keeps the freerider on deep fluffy virgin ground, and also allows you to jump from rocks without harm to health.
What to buy
Skis park, for freestyle (Park & Pipe, Freestyle)
Moment park skis. evo.com These are skis designed for acrobatics and ski jumping in special parks, passing mogul tracks.
Often park skis are twin-tip models with the same curved toe and heel. In such skis, a freestyler can land comfortably after a ski jump with both his back and his face.
What to buy
Having decided on the purpose of the skis, you can begin to select a specific pair. In this case, several parameters must be taken into account: the length, stiffness and radius of the side cutout.
We will not consider skis for professional racing, as they are selected according to a specific sports discipline and the pros don't need advice. Better focus on choosing equipment for beginners and advanced.
Alpine skiing options
Length
The length of skis depends on their purpose and the width of the waist - the narrowest point of the ski.
- Carving, freestyle. To choose the height of carving or park skis, subtract 5–10 cm from your height.
- Freeride. If you choose less wide skis (with a waist of 80 mm), subtract 5 cm from your height. If you are wider (waist from 90 to 110 mm), add 10 cm.
- Universal. If you choose skis with a waist less than 85 mm, subtract 10 cm from your height. If the waist is more than 85 mm, the appropriate length will be -5 to +5 cm to your height.
Rigidity
Rigid skis allow you to develop high speed without losing stability, including during turns. However, hard skiing requires good technique.
Carving skis have greater longitudinal and torsional stiffness than universal skis. Due to this, the centrifugal force that occurs at high speed is compensated. With a lack of rigidity, it will not be possible to make a clear turn: the skis will break into side slip.
The more weight, the more rigid skis are needed to hold it.
It will be more convenient for beginners and amateurs to ride on soft skis, for example, universal ones. They allow you to make mistakes in technique and provide a more comfortable ride. In addition, the stiffer the ski, the higher the price, so for amateur skiing it is preferable to choose soft ones.
As a rule, ski stiffness indicators are indicated on the product card or on the ski tag.
Sidecut Radius
Sidecut radius depends on ski geometry. The larger the radius, the wider the arc along which your skis will pass.
Carving skis are divided into several types depending on the style of skiing. Slalom has a short radius - 9-12 meters, which allows you to move in small arcs. Long-radius skis with indicators of 17-25 meters are designed for wide slopes and allow you to develop high speed.
There are also medium-range skis with performance from 12 to 17 meters. Due to the reduced radius, these skis listen better on turns and, unlike long-radius ones, allow you to ride on rather tight, crowded slopes.
The radius of universal skis is from 15 to 18 meters. This radius is suitable for those who are just mastering the ski slopes.
Due to the increased width, freeride skis have a large sidecut radius - about 20 meters. Such models are best chosen by trained skiers.
Alpine ski designs
Now there are three main designs of alpine skis and many mixed options.
The core of such skis is usually made up of several layers of wood and synthetic materials and is reinforced with carbon or fiberglass mesh.
From the sides, the core is closed with plastic walls, on top - with a decorative strip, and from below - with a sliding surface. Due to several layers of the core, the strength of the ski increases and depreciation increases.
Unlike Sandwich, these skis do not have side and decorative trims, and the core is closed with one monolithic structure that reaches the edges.
Cap provides less weight and more torsional rigidity of the ski, which, in turn, increases its handling. In addition, production is less expensive, and therefore such skis are sold at lower prices.
Monocoque (monocoque)
This is a development of the Salomon brand, a one-piece composite body to which a sliding surface is glued. Inside the case there is a core made of wood or light synthetic materials.
Skis made using Monocoque technology have high torsional rigidity and low weight, which ensures cornering stability and less sensitivity to track irregularities.
In addition to these three designs, there are a large number of mixed options. For example, Monocoque-Sandwich or even Cap-Sandwich, when the middle of the ski is made according to one technology, and the ends - according to another.
Alpine skiing materials
Alpine ski cores are made from lightweight wood, plain foam, or a combination of wood and synthetic materials.
Wooden cores perfectly dampen vibrations, provide good ski control and uniform elasticity along the entire length.
In cheaper skis, foam cores can be found. For example, the Cap structure is filled with light synthetic foam. Foam does not provide such stability and elasticity as wood, but it weighs less.
Foam core. backcountry.com The next layer is the core braid made of composite materials. The stiffness of the ski depends on it to a greater extent. The braid is made of fiberglass, carbon and fibers of other materials in combination with epoxy resin. To increase the rigidity, the braid can be supplemented with metal plates made of light alloys, such as aluminum and titanium.
In the production of a sliding surface, combined materials are also used. For example, polyethylene with the addition of graphite. Graphite reduces the electrostatic charge, due to which small ice crystals and dirt stick to the sliding surface, and polyethylene ensures better retention of the ointment on the surface.
How to choose ski bindings
The choice of fasteners depends on several parameters.
1. Mounting standard. There are several binding standards that are suitable for boots with a certain type of sole:
- Alpine Mounts. Suitable for ISO 5355 soles. This standard applies to most trail skating boots.
- Frame mounts. In such mounts, the front and rear are connected by a frame. Due to this, the skier can not only ride with a fully secured foot, but also unfasten the heel to go skiing, for example climbing a mountain. Most of these bindings are compatible with ISO 9523 (Touring) soles.
- WTR (Walk to Ride). Developed by Salomon. Boot bindings with a higher WTR sole with tread for comfortable walking.
- MNC (Multi Norm Compatible). These bindings will fit any sole standard: ISO 5355, ISO 9523 and WTR.
2. Elastic fastening. This is the maximum force at which the fastening will not unfasten, but will return the boot to its place.
Bindings for carving skis have a little elasticity. It is enough to shift the boot by 1 cm, and everything will come unfastened.
Freeride bindings are more flexible, as they are under more stress when riding wide skis on unprepared slopes. To release the freeride binding, the boot must move to the side by 2.5-3 cm.
3. Ski stop width. Ski-stop (ski-stop) is a metal bracket that is needed for braking if the ski comes unfastened. Looks like two wires on the sides of the mounts.
The waist (narrowest point) of the ski should be narrower than the ski stop. Otherwise, you will not be able to put the mount on the ski.
If the ski stop bracket is too wide, it will protrude far beyond the boundaries of the ski and cling to the snow when skiing. Therefore, choose a ski mount only after you choose the skis themselves.
4. Features of fastening on a ski. Bindings are installed on skis in different ways.
- With screws. This is the most secure installation method. Cons: You can't use multiple skis with the same binding. In addition, the screws break the structure of the skis a little, so if you want to change the bindings, holes will remain from the old ones.
- On a platform with holes. Some ski models have a binding platform. In this case, it is better to buy mounts from the same manufacturer: the platform holes will match the mounts and you will not have to spend a lot of time on installation.
- On a platform without holes. If the ski has a platform without holes, any bindings will work, since you will make the holes yourself.
- On a platform with guides. For such platforms, special fasteners are needed, which are put on the guides, after which the screw is tightened. Such bindings are easily changed to the size of the boot, which can be useful if several people ski on the same ski.
How to choose sticks
1. Material. Sticks can be made of aluminum or carbon fiber and fiberglass. When choosing aluminum models, pay attention to the numbers on the stick. For example, 5086 or 6061 is an indication of an alloy. The higher the number, the more rigid and durable the alloy.
Models made of carbon fiber and fiberglass are lighter, stronger and more expensive than aluminum, however, they do not last forever: if you damage a stick made of composite materials with a sharp edge of a ski, it will quickly break under load.
2. Shape. Sticks for normal skiing are straight. For high-speed descents, such as giant slalom, they are curved. This shape allows athletes to remove the rings of sticks behind their backs during the descent, increasing aerodynamics.
the-raceplace.com 3. The size and shape of the rings. The rings at the bottom of the stick are designed so that the stick does not go deep into the snow. Freeride models are equipped with large guides to keep the pole well on soft, fluffy snow. The poles for piste skiing are equipped with small rings that will not interfere and cling to the boots while skiing.
Some manufacturers make sticks with interchangeable rings for different riding conditions.
4. Stick length. This is the most important indicator.
To find the perfect length, turn the stick over and grab it under the ring. If in this position a right angle forms between the forearm and shoulder, this stick is right for you. Some experts advise adding 5-7 cm to this length to take into account the immersion of the stick in the snow.
Before choosing poles, put on ski boots: they will add a few centimeters to your height.
As for the lanyard (the strap that secures the stick on the arm), it is not advised to wear it. During a fall, ski bindings will automatically release your boots, but you are unlikely to be able to remove the lanyards from your wrists as quickly. And this is fraught with injury. Therefore, you may well choose sticks without lanyards or cut them off after purchase.
What to buy
Ski boots parameters
First, we will tell you what characteristics ski boots have, and then we will analyze how to choose boots depending on your style of skiing.
Rigidity
This characteristic indicates how much effort you need to make to change the angle of the boot top. The stiffer the boot, the better your muscle forces are transferred to the skis.
Soft boots dampen efforts due to the bending of the bootleg. As a result, ski control is reduced.
The stiffer boots you buy, the easier it will be to manage your skis.
However, hard boots have a drawback: while skiing, they can rub your feet, cause pain and swelling. Therefore, beginners are not advised to buy too hard boots.
sole type
ISO 5355 standard. Most ski boots (carving and sports) have soles of this standard.
ISO 5355 outsole. ebay.com Touring (ISO 9523). The standard boot for ski touring or cross-country travel up and down. These boots have a higher rubber sole with a deep tread. Sometimes shoes are sold with interchangeable pads that allow them to be used with regular bindings.
Touring outsole. gearinstitute.com WTR (Walk to Ride) is the standard for freeride boots that require special WTR bindings. Some models of these boots can also be used with Touring bindings.
WTR outsole. lugaresdenieve.com Shoe width
Shoe width - the distance between the walls of the boot at its widest point. Should match the width of your foot. As a rule, this parameter is indicated on the boot, and you can measure your foot directly in the store or rental: usually there are special rulers there.
There are boots with adjustable shoe widths. They indicate the range, for example, from 100 to 150 mm.
Remember: in boots that are too wide, you will not be able to fix your legs well, so it will be difficult for you to control your skis while skiing. Therefore, it is better to focus on the numbers and not buy too spacious shoes.
thermoforming
This is the ability of the boot to conform to the shape of your foot when exposed to heat.
Inner boot in thermoformable material. backcountry.com In some boots, only problem areas can be molded, in others, the entire surface of the boot is molded.
If your boots are labeled Auto Fit, they are thermoformed while you wear them, from the warmth of your foot. A few days of riding is enough for the self-molded boots to adapt to your features.
Walk around the store for 10 minutes before buying shoes. So you will understand whether your boots are tight or not, they need thermoforming or it is worth trying on others.
Custom Fit shoes are designed for hot forming with a special dryer. Hot forming is done in the store after trying on, if it seems to you that the boot fits in size, but it presses a little in some place.
First, the boot is heated with a hair dryer for about 10-15 minutes, then you put it on, fasten the clips and stand for about 10 minutes. Then remove and leave for at least an hour until the material hardens in the desired position.
Warming
Ski boots are insulated with down, wool and various synthetic materials, such as 3M Thinsulate hydrophobic insulation.
Unlike natural materials, synthetic materials have the ability to wick moisture away from the body, so you won't be riding in sweaty socks. At the same time, they should also be made of synthetic material: it is better to leave cotton and wool for other purposes.
How to choose ski boots for their intended purpose
evo.com These boots will suit you if you are going to ride exclusively on prepared slopes and just for fun. That is, you will not work on speed and technique, set personal records and get out of the track to ride on untouched snow.
Boots for carving come in different stiffness. For beginners, boots with a stiffness value from 60 to 100 are suitable, for progressive amateurs - from 100 to 130.
When choosing boots, do not chase softness and convenience: you will be comfortable in the store, but on the track, when the skis are poorly controlled, this advantage will not seem so significant to you.
The sole of carving skis is equipped with heels made of soft material. This allows you to conveniently climb stairs or walk on the floor, for example, if you are going to relax in a cafe.
Success in skiing directly depends on the competent selection of equipment. Putting on what was and flying from the mountains is not our method! At least it is not safe and you are unlikely to get pleasure from such skating.
3 characteristics that determine the quality of skiing:
- Geometry or size - the width of the skis at three points: nose, heel and waist, as well as the radius of the sidecut formed by them.
- Profile and type of deflection.
- Ski length.
About how correctly we already wrote earlier, in this article we will consider the nuances of selecting sizes and types of deflections for skiing. These two characteristics directly affect the comfort of edge-to-edge arcing, descending stability and confident control at high speeds.
Traditionally, ski equipment is classified by skill level: children, adult beginners, amateurs, advanced and experts. But by and large, the whole choice in this category comes down to two components:
How do you want to ride? Slow or fast, with aggressive carving technique (sharp turns) or not.
Where do you want to ride? On prepared, groomed trails with cleared snow or off-piste, on virgin soil and snowdrifts.
Let's deal with each indicator in order to understand which skis should be chosen and what to focus on in general.
Varieties of skiing by type of ride
- Racing is the general name for skis for downhill skiing. Under this name they unite the carving style of riding. Almost all amateurs and experts prefer either this category or All-mountain.
- Freeride - skiing off the prepared slopes. This includes hilly terrain, virgin lands with deep snow. They are also called powder skis and the main distinguishing feature is the waist width from 115 cm.
- Freestyle - skis for stunt riding and performing acrobatic elements in parks. You can also find the names park or pipe, meaning how to ride in special parks.
- All-mountain, Allround - universal models, ideal for beginners.
Alpine skiing has two sides of the same coin. If you prefer speed, then you need skis of one design, and if you prefer maneuverable riding with aggressive carving technique (cutting arcs), then a completely different one.
All-mountain skis, which, we advise all beginner skiers, are not suitable for experienced people who want to ski in different conditions. For every style of riding, you need your own pair of skis!
In the article, we try to duplicate all Russian-language terms in English, because the marking of alpine skis is usually done in English and it will be easier for you to navigate this way. And then how many sites in Runet, so many variations of terms.
How to choose the size of skis (geometry)
By the shape of skis, we can predict in advance how they will behave on the track.
When choosing a size, they are guided by three characteristics - nose, waist and heel width, are always measured in millimeters (see photo on the left). These three meanings together form , which is responsible for passing turns and cutting arcs.
In the screenshot on the left, the radius is displayed in meters. This is an average figure, which also depends on the length of the ski. One model with the same width, but with a different size will have a different side radius.
The larger the sidecut radius, the better the skis enter the turns and pass them faster:
Skis with a short radius, say 14-16 meters, will turn fairly quickly. But 22 meters will be less maneuverable, but they will be able to develop greater speed, and not least because of the width of the waist.
Nose (Tip): this point is responsible for the beginning of the turn of the ski. A wider nose (approximately 120mm and above) floats easier in soft snow and is a good option for descents on unprepared trails.
Heel (tail): the back of the ski helps to handle turns. Wide heels are popular among experienced skiers. When cutting fast turns, the wider tail resists side slip and maintains speed. Beginners should not choose a wide heel, they still will not be able to fully appreciate all the possibilities.
Waist Width: no less important indicator and is responsible for turns and behavior at speed. I would even say that it is the ratio of all three points that is important, and not just one.
With a narrow waist, the skis go into turns well, easily cut arcs. Suitable for prepared slopes. With a wide waist, skis keep speed more stable and behave better on unprepared slopes, virgin lands, snowdrifts.
The standard waist width for All-mountain skis that we recommend for beginners is 70-80mm.
Also, almost all have the same lateral radius, so you can’t go wrong with this characteristic. But, nevertheless, remember about it and ask a consultant in a sports store about it.
Why All-mountain? After all, a beginner will obviously not freeride outside prepared slopes and descend at high speed with aggressive riding technique, so he prefers to choose shorter alpine skis, with a universal side radius indicator, and an average waist width. Such skis will easily enter short turns, the beginner will be able to quickly master the basics of carving riding, as the most common type of skiing.
Profile or bend of alpine skis
Camber is a slight upward camber in the center of the ski. A traditional deflection that has been used for many years. The main idea is that under the weight of the skier, the skis bend in the opposite direction, due to which the area of \u200b\u200bcontact with the snow increases.
Camber Provides good speed, and most importantly, stability on it. Skis with traditional camber are not suitable for freeriding and skiing on soft snow.
Rocker is an inward deflection at the toe, or at the toe and heel. It is also called reverse camber. Sagging under the weight of the skier, the nose and torture rise up. Alpine skis with a moderate rocker are ideal for beginners, they make it easier to cut carving turns.
Many skis have combined shapes - a rocker at the toe and heel, a camber in the middle. It's the perfect combination of the cornering control of a rocker ski and the speed stability of a camber. The cambered midsole provides good handling at speed and in hard snow, while the rockered toe and heel provide good flotation on virgin snow and easy corner entry.
best posts
Do not forget about ski poles, how to choose the right size and material, we described in detail in this article -
Look at the diagram below for examples of popular profiles:
As you can see, manufacturers use different combinations of camber and rocker, adjusting to the needs of each skier. The percentage of sag is responsible for the style of skiing they are suited to.
So what to choose for regular skiing in a ski resort?
Answer: no profile can be called bad or good. Camber improves handling and gives control at speed, therefore, in universal models, it occupies from 85% of the total area, 15% is allocated to the rocker. But freeride, powder are already equipped with a rocker from 20 to 60%. It is understandable, on virgin lands and deep snow you need controllability and cross-country ability.
Remember that the percentage of this or that bend in alpine skiing is good or bad. Here the main ratio of magnitudes!
If you are also asking this question, then take All-mountain skis!
| pros | Minuses | ||
| short and narrow | Long and wide | short and narrow | Long and wide |
| Comfortable and easy to maneuver | Suitable for any weight category, no subsidence under the snow | Under a heavy skier, they fall through the snow, you need to choose the right size. | Poor maneuverability |
| You can ride in places where the snow is icy and has a rigid structure | Accelerate to high speed | Speed is low | Not suitable for icy hard snow trails |
| Suitable for trails where the surface is uneven and bumpy | Better braking due to larger contact area | Long braking | |
| Suitable for riding in deep snow | Not suitable for virgin and freeride | ||
Alpine skiing for women
Most often they are softer and with mounts shifted forward, most suitable for the center of gravity of the female body, located below the male.
Universal women's alpine skiing with good reviews:
- Salomon CIRA with LITHIUM 10W mounts - have a side radius of 13 meters. The price of such a model is from 22 thousand rubles;
- Atomic Vantage X 77 CTI W;
- Fischer My Mtn 80 - the model is suitable for already progressing skiers with the skills of active, carving riding.
Video: how to choose skiing for beginners in 3 minutes
Translation of a useful informative video from the American company rei.com especially for WayEmpire.
Watch out for discounts
Do not forget that the price of ski equipment has a seasonal surge and it is best to buy them either at the end of the season (March-April) or already during the season. At this time, the price can drop up to 50%. The price hike peaks in autumn!
Another great way to save money is to buy skis from previous seasons. Their prices are often lower, and the technical difference is not so great and difficult to notice, especially for beginners.
We do not advise beginners to choose skis themselves, it is better to trust professionals, and for the first season to generally ride on rental equipment, try different lengths and geometry, see what type of ride you like, and from next season pick up your first skis.
Answers on questions
What brand of alpine skiing is better?
This question is easy to answer, since the ski market is conservative and new and successful brands rarely appear. Look out for: Atomic, Fischer, Leki, Rossignol and Salomon. These brands have stood the test of time, skiers and ski cup competitions.
Where is the best place to buy skis?
If you buy in Moscow, then in the specialized stores Kant, Sport Marathon, or Sportmaster, only some professional department, where there will be qualified specialists who can show and tell the beginner. Or good online stores.
We do not recommend taking used skis, especially after 2-3 riding seasons.
What time to put a child on skis?
Ski schools accept children from 4-5 years old. You can put, as they say, from the cradle, but now they will start skating sanely from five years. And at the age of 7-8, you can already fully engage in sports schools.
Should I choose with or without mount?
Modern universal skis all come with bindings. One has only to ask the consultant to set them to the size of the boots and show the principle of the mechanism.
There is more than one conditional classification of alpine skiing that has the right to life. Moreover, the manufacturers themselves from season to season often castling their models, moving them in catalogs from one category to another. Introducing conditional classification from our expert Sergei Garibov, which will help you navigate the varieties of alpine skiing and manufacturers' catalogs.
Carving skis
A carved turn performed by Fischer pro rider Alexander Gordeev.
Carving (piste) skiing- a type of ski designed for skiing on prepared slopes (on piste). Such skis repeat the geometry of sports skis, but they are more comfortable, softer in deflection and not as hard in torsion, not as “strict” (that is, they “forgive” some mistakes) as sports skis.
Such skis provide the ability to ski in deep arcs, short or wide. Typically, the waist width of a trail ski is in the range of 68-78 mm. Cross-country skis have a deep side cutout - the turning radius of the ski is from 10 to 19 meters.
What is carving
Theoretically, for a good cross-country ski, such geometry, together with the correct distribution of the stiffness of the ski, provides it with ease of entry into the turn and the ability to pass the entire slope "on the edges", without slipping the ski sideways. This technique of turning (without side slip) is called "carving" and is considered modern skiing technique. It arose along with the advent of carving skis (skis with a deep sidecut) in the second half of the 1990s. As they say now, at the turn of the century, a “carving revolution” took place in alpine skiing. When skiing on carving skis, the skier loads both skis more evenly, in contrast to the classical technique with the load in the turn on one ski, external to the turn. When skiing on modern skis, on average, 60% of the load goes to the outer ski in a turn, 40% to the inner one.
The transition to carving skis had several serious consequences:
- The initial training in ski equipment has been simplified, and, accordingly, the number of skiers has increased.
- The average controlled speed of skiers has increased, and in general the possibilities of skiers on the slope and, accordingly, the pleasure of skiing.
- The outflow of skiers to snowboarding has decreased (the simultaneous appearance of wide skis and twintips also played a role here).
Sasha Gordeev carve on freeride (!) skis Fischer Big Stix 122 (size 190 cm, turning radius 20 m).
What are carving skis for?
Carving skis are ideal for the initial training in ski technique. If a person has good physical data, is really set up and wants to learn how to ride, he needs to be helped in his intention by picking up the “right” skis for him. In what sense are "correct"? In such a way that the skis themselves helped him master modern skiing equipment - the technique of carved turn, that is, carving.
Trail (carving) skis are well suited for skiing on soft or hard (icy) prepared slopes, but not for skiing in deep or unprepared snow.
For beginners and advanced skiers, carving skis are usually chosen 10-20 cm shorter than the height of the skier (depending on the weight of the skier, his experience, skiing speed and preferred turning radius). For experienced skiers for skiing in the mountains in large arcs at high speeds, skis are selected 10-20 cm tall and higher with a large (15-20 meters) turning radius. On small slopes and frequent turns - short skis ( less height) and with a radius of 10-13 meters.
The fact is that in addition to all the above classifications, ALL skis are divided into three large classes:
- Skis that carve well will carve well.
These are, first of all, sports skis (race), expert cross-country skis, cross-country skis for advanced skiers, sometimes (best) cross-country skis for intermediate and beginner skiers. That is, these skis are designed for those who love speed on the prepared slope.
- Skis that go well with side slip.
The second class usually includes all skis for beginners, for children, for everyone who wants to ski at low speeds. These skis are designed to control speed with side slip. Most freeride skis, park skis, most of the all-mountain skis fall into this class. Freeriders and all-round skiers skiing at high speeds in difficult snow conditions also need speed control through side slip.
- The skis are universal in technique, that is, they carve perfectly and at the same time turn easily with lateral slip.
The third class includes a small number of the best trail and universal (All mountain) skis and an even smaller number of freeride skis.
Universal skis (All mountain)
Most skiers want one pair of skis for everything. This is a normal desire for any “normal” (average) skier, so that during a trip to the mountains on these skis you can both grab the track and jump along the hillocks, and, if it suddenly snows, get out of the tracks. We must admit to ourselves that such skiers — majority. For them, manufacturers make this most massive class of skis.
All-mountain / All-terrain / Allround skis - universal mountain skis. They behave quite well on snow-packed slopes, they also behave well on broken slopes, on soft mounds and in shallow virgin soil. However, in each of these situations, they are significantly inferior to specialized models.
The waist width of universal skis is usually in the range of 78-100 mm. The turning radius of these skis usually varies from 13 to 21 meters. The length of universal skis is usually selected in the height range of the skier +/-10 cm. The class of these skis is quite diverse, because everyone interprets the very concept of versatility in their own way. For some, behavior on a prepared slope is more important, for someone - on hillocks, so it is quite difficult to formulate the general properties of universal skis for the class. But I'll try:)
Width of universal skis
The width of the ski is 78-100 mm - definitely more than a ski for prepared slopes, but less than a freeride ski. That is, it is easier to ski on these skis in shallow virgin snow than on trail skis, but much more difficult than on freeride ones. The more the orientation of the universal skis off the track, the wider the waist. The golden mean for expert all-round skis, I consider a waist of 86-95 mm. With this width, the skis are still quite easy and quick to turn over, allowing carving, and at the same time, this width is quite sufficient for skiing in light alpine virgin snow.
Technical versatility and sidecut
Universal skis should be universal not only in terms of the surface on which to ride, but also in terms of skiing technique. That is, it should be easy to ski on not only modern carving techniques (carved turns), but also “classics” (turns with side slip, controlling turns, “godille braking”). For this, progressive sidecut technology is often used, which gives an aggressive corner entry on a hard slope, forgiving behavior in virgin snow and broken snow.
Thanks to the progressive sidecut, the ski builders managed to combine an aggressive geometry with a wide waist. The standard side cutout is a fragment of an arc of a regular circle. In other words, the sidecut radius remains unchanged at any point, from the tip of the ski to its tail. This works well on skis with a narrow waist, but becomes a problem on wide skis, especially on difficult snow.
The progressive sidecut, in turn, has a more complex shape - its radius increases as you move from the nose of the ski to its tail. As a result, a reduced sidecut front radius gives us confident and quick corner entry on hard prepared slopes, while a larger rear sidecut radius provides a more forgiving behavior and less aggressive turn shape, making it easier to drop heels in broken snow and powder. .
In this regard, these skis are usually less suitable for the initial training of beginners in modern skiing techniques than piste models. Beginners are very afraid of speed, and all-purpose skis provoke them to make turns with side slip and interfere with the consolidation of carving skills, which are considered basic in modern ski technology. It is much easier to learn carving first, and then master the “classics” than vice versa. My point is that generally good all-round skis are for at least intermediate and advanced skiers.
turning radius
The turning radius is average, the most common radius is 15-16 meters. More than a slalom ski, but less than a giant slalom or freeride ski.
Rocker on universal skis
V Lately all skis (including carving) use rocker technology. On universal skis, it is also usually used to increase cross-country ability, ski stability when driving on broken slopes, and ski buoyancy when going to virgin lands.
What is the difference between a rocker on universal skis? The answer is simple: on universal skis, the early toe lift zone is shorter than on freeride skis (usually does not exceed 300 mm, on freeride skis it easily reaches 500-700 mm) and the toe lift is less than on freeride skis. Rocker on universal skis can be both front (Tip Rocker) and double (Double Rocker), less often a low-profile full rocker is used (Full Rocker Low uses Volkl in its All mountain skis).
Why do you need universal skis
By and large, All-mountain skiing can be described in two words: skis are ideal for broken slopes (Cheget, Dombay, Alpine resorts after 13:00 CET).
Freeride skis
Alexander Kaniovsky, head of the Fischer marketing department, freeriding in Saalbach.
Freeride- skiing or snowboarding off the prepared slopes and, as a rule, outside the service area of the ski industry.
It is believed that it is when skiing on untouched snow that all the possibilities of skiing and snowboarding are most fully revealed. At the same time, off-piste skiing promises a lot of dangers associated with unfamiliar terrain, for example, the possibility of avalanches. Beginners should not be in a hurry to leave the track in the mountains, for this they should have certain skills in skating technique.
Photos from the personal archive of Sergei Garibov.
Of course, the turning radius is determined not by the ski, but by the skier 🙂 Nevertheless, the ski must have its own “favorite arc”, along which it goes like on rails. The curvature of the arc changes with the edge angle. What is especially nice is that skis do not need a skier at all to cut a “favorite arc” (he can be replaced with a load). And if the desire of the skier to go along the arc coincides with the ability of the skis to cut just such an arc, then the perfect carving will probably turn out. In this note, I will consider how the ski sidecut radius and the turning radius are related for the Atomic Redster FIS SL 165 cm (2016) skis.
Let me remind you that such skis of the “club shop” type are being considered.
Geometric parameters are written on the "topsheet": length 165 cm, radius 12.5 m, toe width 117.5 mm, waist - 65.5 mm, heels - 101.5 mm.
A few words about mathematical transformations. First, the shape of the sidecut (working area) needs to be slightly expanded so that the width of the toe and heel matches, and the zero mark must be placed at the narrowest point of the ski. Then the form can be edged. To obtain a “trace in the snow”, you need to divide the coordinate of the side cutout obtained in this way by the cosine of the edging angle. For deflection, multiply by tangent. But in this note, the deflection calculation is not used. Next, you need to get the “X” coordinate from the assumption that the length of the edge does not change during edging (that is, the toe and heel are slightly closer). To do this, you need to calculate from the consideration of triangles the changes in the “X” projection at each measurement step (I have it after 1 cm) and correct this change in length from the middle of the ski to the edges with the sum with “accumulation”. Well, then turn the resulting curve back 🙂
If we proceed from the fact that the shape of the side cutout fits into a circle, then what shape of the trace will turn out after edging - I don’t have enough imagination trace shape. Here is the result:
It can be seen that such a transformation gives a trace that is ideally round on the scale of the graph, that is, it is quite possible to speak of a turning radius. I note that at angles greater than 80 degrees, the circle hitting the trace worsens. The value of this radius turns out to be quite strongly tied to the radius of the side cutout (equal to 12.3 m).
It can be seen that edging up to an angle of 45 degrees corresponds to a change in the turning radius from the “initial” 12.3 m to 8.7 m, and this is approximately the same from the point of view of the trajectory on short slalom turns. At an extreme angle of 60 degrees, the turning radius is 6.1 m, which is also not very similar to what happens on a slalom course.
Mattias Hargin, 2017. Photo from his blogNear the pole, the skis visually go as if “around the skier”, which corresponds to a turning radius of less than two meters. This is the edging area from 80 to 90 degrees! But is it even possible to talk about cutting the arc at such angles?
Review of experiments on measuring edge and turning radius
Unfortunately, the answer to this question is generally not very pleasant. There is no carved arcing on the slalom track at all, and the edge angle of the skis does not depend much on what the ski with its sidecut shape “would like”. And in general, 20 years ago, skis with a completely different sidecut could also turn over strongly. I would not like to plunge into such reasoning myself. For this, the network has scientific papers. Sensors are placed on the athlete and skis, the passage along the track is recorded by several cameras, the shape of the track and the cut groove are analyzed. Articles write about different things, but one of the conclusions that concerns this note is the same: a skier is riding, not a ski, the edge angle depends on the turn that he needs to make, on the technique, on the speed, on the surface ... They rarely remember about the sidecut of the ski 🙂
I will give a figure with selective experimental data.
Above are the phases of the turn, taken from a real athlete. On the graphs, data on edge angles and the degree of drift (the angle of ski mismatch with the direction of movement). Data for three skis with different radii, the authors believe that the curves are approximately the same. He gave a drawing in order to show that the edging of skis is not at all connected with the incised arc. I will also give graphs of edging and the actual turning radius, which goes with a clear drift before the pole, and after the pole, we can say that it is insignificant. It can be seen that the turning radius is consistent with the edging (the stronger the edged - the steeper the turn), but weakly depends on the radius of the side cutout of the ski.
In general, there is nothing new in the fact that a skier rides, and not a ski 🙂 But the topic of the note is to see how the ski “wants” to ride. To do this, you need to understand at what corners of the edging it can cut the arc. There is no clear answer. So I have to rely on what I see. Based on my observations of free descents on a gentle hill and a “morning soft ice” surface, cut arcs throughout the turn are possible at edge angles up to 45 degrees. The corresponding calculated turning radius of 8.7 meters is approximately the same as observed. Of course, I can’t confirm this, I just mean it 🙂
Turning radius in the track, calculations
Now let's move on to setting the route. This season (2017) we set 9.5 meters (or slightly less than " 6 skis", ski in a straight line 1.64 m) between the gates. I’ll see what the “divorce” of the track should be so that the skis can pass it 🙂 With a track corridor width of 3 meters, the minimum radius of two conjugated arcs (see the figure on the left) is 7.5 meters, which corresponds to an edge angle of 52.5 degrees. In principle, it is believed that such a trajectory is not the fastest, it is better to “raise” it a little, so that you approach the pole a little more across the slope, and not straight down as in the figure. This will increase the radius and increase the width of the path corridor. But I won't do it here.
Mathematically corridor ( W) can vary from zero (the radius is infinity) to the distance between the gates ( L). In the corridor width range, the trajectory can be described by conjugated circles. This limit corresponds to an angle of 45 degrees between the straight line connecting the gate and the downward direction. In our case, this width is 6.7 meters, the corresponding radius is 3.4 meters, which corresponds to an edge angle of 74 degrees. The general formula for the radius of the trajectory in this range is: . Since the ski has a maximum radius of 12.3 meters, this imposes a restriction on the minimum track opening equal to 1.84 meters (the corresponding edge angle is “equal” to zero 🙂 That is, if the track corridor is less than 1.84 meters, then a straight line must be inserted into the trajectory vertical section.And if the route corridor is more than 6.7 meters, then a straight horizontal section must be inserted into the trajectory, and the turning radius on the round parts of the trajectory must be equal to half the downward slope component of the distance between the gates.
In the range of the route corridor width from 1.84 to 6.7 meters, the calculated trajectory radii and the corresponding edge angles look like this:
Unfortunately, when setting the tracks in the past season (2017), the distance between the gates was measured strictly with skis, and the transverse “divorce” was set “by eye”. Therefore, I can’t say for sure about the width of the corridor of our tracks. I won't do it again 🙂
Vitaly Sizov sets the track. Photo — Sergey Ezhov Vitaly SizovI turned to Vitaly Sizov, he sets the width of the route corridor strictly, measures it with skis. He puts a stick, then the next one, then moves horizontally from this stick until he is exactly under the top stick. And considers skis. Not for every milestone, but for verification. Vitaly reported the following parameters: "If the distance between the poles is 6 skis, then the horizontal distance is 1.5 skis - open, 2 skis - normal, 2.5 skis - closed."
If we translate this into the width of the corridor in meters and into the corresponding calculated edge angle, then it turns out like this:
- "Open", width = 2.5 meters, turning radius = 9.0 m, edge angle = 43 degrees;
- “Normal”, track width = 3.3 meters, turning radius = 6.8 meters, edge angle = 56 degrees;
- “Closed”, track width = 4.1 meters, turning radius = 5.5 meters, edge angle = 63 degrees.
Alexander Mistryukov said that he puts it “by eye”, on a steep slope of about 5 meters (R = 4.5 m, angle = 68.5 degrees).
In general, it turns out that in order to “cut through” the slalom track, you need to master skiing with an edge angle of about 60 degrees. It should also be taken into account that in the calculations the edge-over occurs instantaneously. In fact, of course, there is no such thing, which is probably why the shape of the arc in the track is not a circle, but a “comma”, and you need to turn over more. But also the trajectory of a slightly larger radius, since it is “wider and higher”. Therefore, most likely, in general, the calculated edge angle and the real one approximately coincide.
The edge angle of 45 degrees, which I mentioned above as typical for a carved arc in free skating, is generally “nothing”. This corresponds to a track corridor of only 2.6 meters. And it’s a shame that if you don’t turn the skis at all, then the corridor of the track is 1.84 meters. That is, only 76 cm of additional width between the poles corresponds to the transition from flat skiing to a 45-degree angle. It turns out that the ability to turn skis to an angle of 45 degrees is not much different from not being able to turn them at all 🙁
Only geometry was taken into account. The steepness of the slope, overloads, grip with the slope were not taken into account. Nevertheless, indeed, slalom skis can “pass the slalom track themselves” 🙂 You just need to be able to turn them powerfully and not “go off the rails”.
Conclusion
Slalom skis do have their own “favorite” arc, where they can cut through a typical (in the amateur sense) slalom course. But without the ability to cut arcs with edge angles from 60 degrees, you won’t get close to this favorite arc 🙂
