When looking at skiing in the collections of popular brands, the eyes literally run up: at least three dozen models for adults only. It can be difficult even for an experienced skier to choose “his” pair of alpine skis, let alone a beginner. The main characteristics of alpine skis, which each manufacturer publishes both on the website and in the catalog, will help to find among all the variety "your own skis" or at least reduce the number of options.
How to choose alpine skis according to their characteristics
Alpine skiing radius
The radius of alpine skis, or more precisely - the radius of the side cutout, simply the "radius", and sometimes you can find the "radius of the arc", is measured in meters. A characteristic that determines how steep the turns will be, which are easiest to complete on such a ski. The smaller the notch radius (11 ... 13 m), the stronger the ski is tuned to frequent and fast turns, the larger this parameter (17 ... m), the more inclined such a ski will be to smooth turns. Of course, an experienced skier will be able to "drive" a ski with a large radius into a short arc, and on skis with a large cutout - that is, with a small cutout radius, he will pass a long arc. But this will require a little more strength and skill. This means that the pleasure of riding will be somewhat less.
This is not the most important of the characteristics when choosing. The lighter the ski, the easier it is to control, but at the same time it will be less stable to go in the direction set by the skier, it is easier to knock it off course. This is useful for beginners - after all, the skiing speed is still low, and on skis that are easy to control, you learn faster. With increasing experience, the speed of skiing also increases, more and more stable alpine skis with predictable behavior are required and on uneven snow - and the skis become a little heavier. Women's alpine skis are shorter and lighter, lighter bindings are installed on them, so that their weight is in the region of 4.5 - 5.5 kg / pair, men's skis are longer, more powerful and heavier, their weight is from 5 to 7 kg, you can find even more heavy models, especially for high-speed freeride.
Alpine ski width
Alpine ski width is measured in millimeters. The waist width of alpine skis is one of the key characteristics that determines the all-terrain performance of a ski. Waist width up to 73 mm is typical for models for skiing on prepared slopes. The narrower the waist, the faster the ski can move from turn to turn, change the direction of sliding on a hard slope. Waist widths ranging from 73 ... 75 mm to 85 ... 90 mm are the most versatile models ( all-mountain) for skiing on prepared slopes, and on broken snow, and on shallow virgin soil. The wider the waist, the better the ski floats in deep snow. Accordingly, alpine skis with a waist wider than 90 mm are chosen by those who hardly plan to ride on prepared slopes.
Alpine ski geometry
The geometry of alpine skis is given in the catalogs in the form of numbers, for example 120/73/103 mm, next to the length of the skis is indicated - the size for which the geometry is given. The wider the toe is in relation to the width of the waist, the more readily the ski begins to turn. And the narrower the heel, the easier the ski goes into slipping. In other words, a ski with a geometry of 125/73/97 mm will "dive" into a turn faster, and it will be easier to "drop heels" on such skis than on skis with a geometry of 120/73/103 mm.
Shedding heels is a slang expression. This is a technique used to stop or change direction in the event of an unexpected obstacle, such as a skier falling in front of you. In this situation, the most natural movement is to put the alpine skis across the slope, for which the skis are released into slipping with the effort of the legs - they begin to slide sideways, and the heels of the skis slide more than the socks.
Alpine ski stiffness
The stiffness of skis is not standardized in any units, and you can compare the two models in terms of stiffness only with your own hands. In general, we can say that within the same ski line, the models for more experienced skiers are tougher, but you will have to compare with the models of other manufacturers either "manually", or, having studied the design of the skis, how many layers of metal are in each of them, what the core is made of and so on. The more layers of metal, the harder the ski, the wider the ski - the harder it is with the same design, and so on.
The distribution of stiffness for different skis can be different - some models are characterized by uniform stiffness along the entire length, as a rule, these are models for prepared slopes, while others (universal models and skis for freeriding - skiing off-piste) have softer toe and heel, and the middle part is noticeably tougher. The most powerful reinforcement is metal layers located below and above the core, or just below. Alpine skis with two layers of metal will almost always be more rigid than models in which one layer of metal is replaced by lightweight fiberglass or carbon.
How to choose alpine skis for height
Alpine skiing Rostovka
When choosing alpine skis by height, it is important to understand that in most cases a skier can ride several sizes, depending on how he likes to ski, the level of his technique, which slopes he prefers, what is the model of the recommended skis, etc. Alpine skiers try to use sizes close to the generally accepted ones. One of the reasons is that all men use downhill skis with a size of 165 cm for slalom, and all women with a size of 155 cm. The most common "psychological" sizes for piste skiing are: for men (weight 60-100 kg and height 160-190 cm): 165 cm for lovers of a short turn, 170-175 cm for a medium and large arc; for women (weight 40 - 80 kg and height 150-180 cm): respectively 155 - 165 cm.
Subtleties in the selection of alpine skis by height
The shortening of the size by 5-10 cm should be taken into account: skiers specializing mainly in carving skiing (on well-prepared slopes), for skiing on short and gentle slopes, if your weight or height is less than the above, beginners, at the special request of the instructor, girls-tourists who prefer careful and unhurried skiing.
The lengthening of the size by 5-10 cm from the main one should be done if: your weight, height is higher than indicated, you are going to ride on steep and long slopes, for carvers who prefer arcs of a larger radius and high speeds. The lengthening of the size by more than 5-10 cm from the main one is advised for those who ride in deep fluffy snow and for radical supporters of traditional techniques (make sure that the geometry of the recommended models is not too radical either).
We wish you good shopping and great skiing!
And alpine skiing is an important element of the equipment. And the question of choice is especially acute for those who are just going to master the technique of skiing.
The advice of workers in this area will help you to correctly choose alpine skis for beginners. Depending on the characteristics and basic parameters of alpine skiing, they are selected according to the skill level of the skier.
It is worth noting that alpine skis differ from each other in the shape of the nose, heels, the narrowness of the middle part and the softness of the manufacture of products. These quality characteristics give alpine skiing stability with a smooth ride and make them easy to learn and develop technique.
On a note:
Alpine skiing types
Alpine skiing classification - the dependence of ski types on the parameters and characteristics of ski equipment. From the article you will find out which alpine skiing you ski and how they differ from other varieties.
Important characteristics of alpine skiing
However, it is important to focus not only on the product model, but also on a number of its technical characteristics:
- Lenght and width
Alpine skis differ in terms of their construction length and width.· long skis - They have the ability to develop high speed when skiing on a plane;
- Gives great flexibility to the position of the body;
- They slow down well thanks to the increased edge length of the ski when descending from the mountains.
· shorter skis - Lighter in weight, nimble on bumps and more maneuverable on ice;
- Increases the ability to make more turns on the slopes of small or too narrow tracks;
- They exert specific pressure on the edging, going deeper into the snow surface.
· wide skis - Develop a stable speed on flat slopes of the tracks;
- They overcome deep snow and virgin soil well, which is a huge advantage when skiing through the forest on unequipped tracks.
Useful article:
Selection of alpine skis by height
How to choose the right alpine skis for your height? An article about how important a well-chosen ski length is and why. We have given important recommendations that should be followed about the selection of ski equipment.
The main problem faced by those wishing to purchase their own ski kit is the ability to combine the good characteristics of alpine skiing with their level of skiing and versatility for ski slopes of any complexity.
- Rigidity
The stiffness of alpine skis is understood as its ability to bend under the influence of the skier's body weight. Rigidity is primarily responsible for handling, i.e. how difficult / easy it will be for a skier to cope with his skis when skiing on the slopes of the mountain. Rigid skis with high values of this characteristic are intended more for professional skiers who have impulsiveness and powerful skiing with skillful throws from turn to turn.
- Vibration damping, flexibility, torsion stability
Based on the characteristics when choosing alpine skis, you need to know other features, such as vibration damping, flexibility and torsional stability.· vibration damping - Vibration damping is determined from the behavior of the ski when gaining medium or high speed. Most of the vibration absorption increases the accuracy of movement along arched tracks, additional stability is given when passing irregularities and at the same time the edging cuts well into the ice surface, which thereby gives stability to the skis when skiing at high speeds.
· flexibility - Flexibility is given by springy and elastic flexion of the ski under the influence of the skier's weight.
· torsion stability - High-quality ski assembly, taking into account the resistance to deformations, determines the torsional rigidity of the skier's stability, and is considered one of the main features.
- Advantages:
Makes it easier to ride at low speeds (automatic toe and heel edging) and simplifies riding mistakes. - Disadvantages:
Low torsional stiffness of the ski keeps it on ice somewhat worse.
- Advantages:
Recommendations and tips:
How to choose downhill skiing?
Here - we will tell you in understandable language and explain how to choose alpine skis when buying. We will point out the important points that cannot be dispensed with when choosing skis for skiing on the ski slopes.
- Turning radius and side cut
The turning radius is the main characteristic by which the ability of those or alpine skis to turn while passing along the slopes is determined. Enlarged side cutouts with reduced radius for better arc travel with speed control. Conversely, with a smaller sidecut and an increased radius of turns, the skis go straighter and add speed when skiing.
Advantages of skis with a deep sidecut and a small radius:- Easily fit into the turn;
- Keeps the trajectory steadily on icy surfaces and steeper slopes.
- On ice, when the edge slides sideways on the ice, they lose stability;
- Slightly worse slide on uneven terrain and bumps.
- Waist width
Of no small importance in alpine skiing is given by such a characteristic as the width of the waist of alpine skis. This indicator determines the behavior of the skis when passing through deep snow or ice. Therefore, the narrow waist contributes to the development of high speed when edging, easy fit into corners and increased handling. The wide waist facilitates the passage of the path through deeper snow; - Toe and heel width
The role of the toe length of alpine skis is also important for ski lovers. The wider the tip of the ski, the more confidently the skier enters the turn. Such skis give an advantage when passing trails intended for slalom tests. Such a characteristic as the width of the heel of the ski is also important for lovers of slalom and carving. The wider the heel, the better the arch at the end of the pivot maneuver;
- Working speed range
The operating speed range is considered satisfactory if the ski is in the correct arc. Wide operating speed ranges give the ski versatility.
Have a nice ride!
We hope our article was useful to you.
Before looking for specific skis, you need to decide what you plan to do on the slopes.
How to choose alpine skiing for the intended purpose
Carving or cross-country skiing (Carving)
Dynastar carving skis. evo.comThese skis are designed for skiing on ready-made ski slopes, allow you to easily enter sharp turns and ride with carving equipment - not on the entire sliding surface, but only on the edges (narrow metal strips along the edges of the ski, with the help of which turns are made).
Unlike racing skis, carving skis are softer and can be ridden with imperfect technique. Therefore, they can be chosen by beginners and those who prefer prepared slopes.
What to buy
Skis for professional racing (Racing)
Salomon racing skis. evo.com These are special carving skis for slalom (SL), giant slalom (GS), super slalom (SG) and downhill (DH). The models differ greatly in geometry and features, are designed for athletes and cost a lot.
What to buy
Universal skis (All-mountain, All-terrain)
Universal skis Armada. evo.com These skis are suitable for skiing on tamped slopes, and for freeriding on virgin soil, and for downhill skiing. Such skis are inferior to specialized ones, but their capabilities are quite enough for comfortable amateur skiing.
What to buy
Freeride skis (Big-mountain, Backcountry)
Salomon freeride skis. evo.com These are wider skis for skiing on unprepared slopes. The increased width of the skis keeps the freerider on deep, fluffy virgin soil, and also allows jumping off the rocks without compromising health.
What to buy
Skis park, for freestyle (Park & Pipe, Freestyle)
Park skis Moment. evo.com These are skis designed for acrobatics and jumping from trampolines in special parks, passing mogul tracks.
Park skis are often twin-tip models with an equally curved toe and heel. In such skis, the freestyler can comfortably land after jumping from the springboard with both his back and face.
What to buy
Having decided on the purpose of the skis, you can proceed to the selection of a specific pair. In this case, several parameters must be taken into account: length, stiffness and radius of the side cutout.
We will not consider skis for professional racing, since they are selected in accordance with a specific sport discipline, and the pros do not need any recommendations. Better to focus on the selection of equipment for beginners and progressives.
Alpine skiing parameters
Length
The length of alpine skis depends on their purpose and the width of the waist - the narrowest point of the ski.
- Carving, freestyle... To pick up carving or park skis in height, subtract 5-10 cm from your height.
- Freeride... If you choose less wide skis (with a waist of 80 mm), subtract 5 cm from your height.If you are wider (waist from 90 to 110 mm), add 10 cm.
- Universal... If you choose skis with a waist less than 85 mm, subtract 10 cm from your height. If your waist is more than 85 mm, a suitable length will be –5 to +5 cm for your height.
Rigidity
Rigid skis allow you to develop high speed without losing stability, including during turns. However, to ski hard, you need good technique.
Carving skis have greater longitudinal and torsional rigidity than general-purpose skis. This compensates for the centrifugal force that occurs at high speed. With a lack of rigidity, it will not be possible to make a clear turn: the skis will break down to side slip.
The more weight, the harder the skis are needed to support it.
It will be more convenient for beginners and amateurs to ride soft skis, for example, universal skis. They allow you to make mistakes in technique and provide a more comfortable ride. In addition, the harder the ski, the higher the price, so for amateur skiing, it is preferable to choose soft ones.
As a rule, ski stiffness indicators are indicated on the product card or on the ski tag.
Sidecut radius
The radius of the sidecut (Sidecut) depends on the geometry of the ski. The larger the radius, the wider the arc your skis will follow.
Carving skis are divided into several types depending on the skiing style. Slalom ones have a short radius of 9–12 meters, which allows them to move in small arcs. Long-radius skis with indicators of 17-25 meters are designed for wide slopes and allow you to reach high speeds.
There are also medium radius skis with indicators from 12 to 17 meters. Due to the reduced radius, these skis obey better when cornering and, unlike long-radius skis, allow you to ski on rather tight slopes clogged with people.
The radius of universal skis is 15 to 18 meters. This radius is suitable for those who are just mastering the ski slopes.
Due to the increased width, freeride skis have a large sidecut radius - about 20 meters. It is better to choose such models for trained skiers.
Alpine ski constructions
Now there are three main designs of alpine skiing and many mixed options.
The core of these skis usually consists of several layers of wood and synthetic materials and is reinforced with carbon or fiberglass mesh.
The core is closed from the sides with plastic walls, from the top - by a decorative strip, and from the bottom - by a sliding surface. Due to several layers of the core, the strength of the ski increases and the shock absorption increases.
Unlike Sandwich, such skis do not have side or decorative strips, and the core is closed by one monolithic structure that reaches the edges.
Cap provides lighter weight and more torsional stiffness to the ski, which in turn enhances handling. In addition, production is less costly, and therefore such skis are sold at lower prices.
Monocoque
This is the development of the Salomon brand, a one-piece composite body to which a sliding surface is glued. A core made of wood or lightweight synthetic materials is installed inside the body.
Skis made with Monocoque technology have high torsional stiffness and low weight, which provides cornering stability and less sensitivity to uneven track.
Apart from these three designs, there are a large number of mixed options. For example, Monocoque-Sandwich or even Cap-Sandwich, when the middle of the ski is made according to one technology, and the ends according to another.
Alpine skiing materials
Alpine ski cores are made from light wood, plain foam, or a combination of wood and synthetic materials.
Wooden cores perfectly dampen vibrations, provide good controllability of the ski and uniform elasticity along the entire length.
In cheaper skis, foam cores can be found. For example, the Cap structure is filled with lightweight synthetic foam. Foam does not provide the same stability and resilience as wood, but it weighs less.
Foam core. backcountry.com The next layer is the braiding of the core made of composite materials. The stiffness of the ski depends on it to a greater extent. The braid is made of fiberglass, carbon and other fibers combined with epoxy resin. To increase the rigidity, the braid can be supplemented with metal plates made of light alloys, such as aluminum and titanium.
Combined materials are also used in the production of sliding surfaces. For example, polyethylene with the addition of graphite. Graphite reduces the electrostatic charge, due to which small ice crystals and dirt adhere to the sliding surface, while polyethylene ensures better retention of the ointment on the surface.
How to choose ski mounts
The choice of mounts depends on several parameters.
1. Fastening standard. There are several binding standards that are suitable for boots with a certain type of sole:
- Alpine Mounts... Fits ISO 5355 soles. This standard applies to most trail shoes.
- Frame mounts... In such mounts, the front and rear are connected by a frame. Due to this, the skier can not only ride with a fully secured foot, but also unfasten the heel to go skiing, for example, uphill. Most of these bindings are ISO 9523 (Touring) compatible.
- WTR (Walk to Ride)... Developed by Salomon. Bindings for boots with a higher WTR sole, equipped with a protector for a comfortable walk.
- MNC (Multi Norm Compatible)... These bindings will fit any outsole standard: ISO 5355, ISO 9523 and WTR.
2. Elasticity of fastening... This is the maximum force at which the fastener will not open, but will return the boot to its place.
Carving ski bindings have little elasticity. It is enough to move the boot 1 cm, and everything will unfasten.
Freeride bindings are more flexible because they are more stressed when riding wide skis on unprepared slopes. To unfasten the freeride mount, the boot must move to the side by 2.5–3 cm.
3. Width of ski stop... A ski-stop is a metal bracket that is needed for braking if the ski is unfastened. It looks like two wires on the sides of the mounts.
The waist (narrowest point) of the ski should be narrower than the ski stop. Otherwise, you will not be able to put on the ski carrier.
If the brace of the ski stop is too wide, it will protrude far beyond the boundaries of the ski and cling to the snow when skiing. Therefore, select a ski mount only after choosing the skis themselves.
4. Features of fastening on the ski... Bindings are installed on skis in different ways.
- With screws... This is the most secure installation method. Downside: you can't use multiple skis with the same binding. In addition, the screws slightly disturb the structure of the skis, so if you want to change bindings, holes will remain from the old ones.
- On a platform with holes... Some skis have a bindings platform. In this case, it is better to buy mounts from the same manufacturer: the holes of the platform will coincide with the mounts and you do not have to spend a lot of time on installation.
- On a platform without holes... If a platform with no holes is attached to the ski, any mounts will fit to it, since you will make the holes yourself.
- On a platform with guides... For such platforms, special fasteners are needed, which are put on the rails, after which the screw is tightened. Such bindings can be easily changed to suit the size of the boot, which can be useful if several people are skiing on the same skis.
How to choose sticks
1. Material... Poles can be made of aluminum or carbon fiber and fiberglass. When choosing models made of aluminum, pay attention to the numbers on the stick. For example, 5086 or 6061 is an indication of the alloy. The higher the number, the harder and stronger the alloy.
Models made of carbon fiber and fiberglass are lighter, stronger and more expensive than aluminum ones, however, they do not last forever: if you damage a stick made of composite materials with the sharp edge of the ski, it will quickly break under load.
2. Form... Sticks for normal riding are straight. For downhill slopes, such as giant slalom, curved. This shape allows athletes to remove the pole rings behind their backs during the descent, increasing aerodynamics.
the-raceplace.com 3. The size and shape of the rings... The rings at the bottom of the stick are designed to keep the stick from going deep into the snow. Freeride models have large rings to keep the stick well on soft, fluffy snow. Poles for piste skiing are equipped with small rings that will not interfere and cling to the boots during skiing.
Some manufacturers make poles with replaceable rings for different riding conditions.
4. Stick length... This is the most important indicator.
To find the ideal length, turn the stick over and grasp it under the ring. If, in this position, a right angle forms between the forearm and shoulder, this stick is for you. Some experts advise adding 5-7 cm to this length in order to take into account the immersion of the stick in the snow.
Put on your ski boots before choosing your poles: they will add a few centimeters to your height.
As for the lanyard (the strap that secures the stick to the hand), it is not advised to wear it. The ski bindings will automatically release your boots when you fall, but you are unlikely to be able to remove the lanyards from your wrists as quickly. And this is fraught with injury. Therefore, you can easily choose poles without lanyards or cut them off after purchase.
What to buy
Parameters of ski boots
To begin with, we will tell you what characteristics ski boots have, and then we will figure out how to choose boots depending on your skiing style.
Rigidity
This characteristic indicates how much effort is needed to change the angle of inclination of the boot shaft. The harder the boot, the better the effort from your muscles is transferred to the skis.
Soft boots dampen the effort by flexing the bootleg. As a result, ski handling is reduced.
The stiffer boots you buy, the easier it will be to handle your skis.
However, hard boots have a drawback: while riding, they can rub your feet, cause pain and swelling. Therefore, beginners are not advised to buy too stiff boots.
Sole type
ISO 5355 standard. Most ski boots (carving and sport) have this standard soles.
ISO 5355 standard outsole.ebay.com Touring (ISO 9523). Standard boot for ski touring or cross-country travel with ups and downs. These boots have a higher rubberized sole with a deep tread. Sometimes shoes are sold with interchangeable overlays that allow them to be used with regular bindings.
Touring standard outsole. gearinstitute.com WTR (Walk to Ride) is the standard for freeride boots that require special WTR bindings. Some of these boots can also be used with Touring bindings.
WTR standard outsole. lugaresdenieve.com Shoe width
The width of the last is the distance between the walls of the shoe at its widest point. Should match the width of your foot. As a rule, this parameter is indicated on the boot, and you can measure your foot right in a store or rental: usually there are special rulers there.
There are boots with adjustable last width. They indicate a range, for example, from 100 to 150 mm.
Remember: in boots that are too wide, you will not be able to fix your legs well, so it will be difficult for you to control the skis while skiing. Therefore, it is better to focus on numbers and not buy shoes that are too spacious.
Thermoforming
It is the ability of the boot to conform to the shape of your foot when exposed to heat.
Inner boot made of thermoformed material. backcountry.com In some shoes only problem areas can be molded, in others the entire surface of the boot can be molded.
If the boots are marked Auto Fit, then they are thermoformed in the process of wearing, from the warmth of your feet. A few days of skiing is enough for the auto-shaped boots to adapt to your characteristics.
Before buying shoes, wear them around the store for 10 minutes. So you will understand whether your shoes are shaking or not, they need thermoforming or it is worth trying on others.
Custom Fit shoes are designed to be hot formed with a special hair dryer. Hot molding is done in the store after trying on, if it seems to you that the shoe fits in size, but presses a little in some place.
First, the boot is warmed up with a hairdryer for about 10-15 minutes, then you put it on, fasten the clips and stand for about 10 minutes. Then remove and leave for at least an hour until the material hardens in the desired position.
Warming
Ski boots are insulated with down, wool and various synthetic materials, such as hydrophobic insulation 3M Thinsulate.
Unlike natural materials, synthetic materials have the ability to wick moisture away from the body, so you won't skate in sweaty socks. At the same time, they should also be made of synthetic material: it is better to leave cotton and woolen for other purposes.
How to choose ski boots for their intended purpose
evo.com These boots will suit you if you are going to ride exclusively on prepared slopes and only for pleasure. That is, you will not work on speed and technique, set personal records and get out of the track to ride on untouched snow.
Carving boots come in different hardness. For beginners, boots with a stiffness value of 60 to 100 are suitable, for progressive amateurs - from 100 to 130.
When choosing boots, do not pursue softness and comfort: in the store you will be comfortable, but on the track, when the skis are poorly controlled, this advantage will not seem so significant to you.
The outsole of carving skis is equipped with heels made of soft material. This allows you to comfortably climb stairs or walk on the floor, for example, if you are going to relax in a cafe.
The main characteristics of skis:
- length (size)
- width
- hardness (average, static / dynamic)
- distribution of stiffness along the length of the ski
- torsional stiffness (torsional stiffness)
- geometry (sidecut depth, sidecut radius, sidecut law (shape))
- waist width (width of the ski under the boot)
- toe length (distance from the front attachment to the ski toe)
- vibration characteristic (the ability of the ski to absorb vibration)
- shock absorption.
What do these characteristics affect?
1. Length
Longer ski:
- more stable at speed (with flat skiing)
- more moment of inertia - better stabilization of the body position
- it is easier to drop speed (long edge length), especially when skiing in the mountains
- better go on virgin soil (deep snow)
Shorter ski:
- easier to turn (more nimble)
- it is better to ride on short slopes (you will have time to make more turns)
- better on ice (more specific pressure on the edge - better cut into ice)
- better on bumps (more nimble)
- lighter in weight.
2. Width
Narrower ski:
- better on ice (in the limit - a skate)
- better on bumps
- more "live" and agile
- lighter in weight
Wider ski:
- goes better on deep snow / virgin soil
- higher stability at speed (on a flat slope)
- higher stability (confidence)
3. Ski stiffness
Softer ski:
- starts to work correctly (bend in an arc) at lower speeds
- better absorbs uneven terrain
- properly designed soft skis
better hold on ice (when skiing on the edges)
- go better on virgin soil (soft snow) Stiffer ski:
- more impulsive - more powerful riding, powerful transfer from turn to turn
- better hold on ice (with lateral edge slip)
4. Geometry
The information block and catalogs usually contain the following information:
140
- ski size in cm
110/73/99
- measurements of skis in mm: width of the toe, waist and heel, respectively
11,7
Is the radius of the side cutout in m.
The last two values, that is, the measurements and the radius of the sidecut, determine the so-called "geometry" of the ski. The radius of the sidecut is measured using a special technique, and it can be used to judge the ability of the skis to carving turn.
The larger the side cut(the smaller the radius of the sidecut), the more the ski tends to go in an arc and, therefore, allows better speed control when carving.
The smaller the side cut(the larger the turning radius), the more the ski tends to go straight, therefore, it allows faster skiing.
Skis with a large (deep) sidecut (small radius of the sidecut):
- easier to enter the turn
- better hold on ice and on a steep slope (when skiing on the edges)
- worse hold on ice (with lateral slipping of the edge)
- worse go over bumps and irregularities.
The smaller the size of the ski, with the same measurements, the more steep the ski is able to turn when carving.
5. Waist width(ski width under the boot)
The narrower the waist, the higher the speed of edging (easier to enter the turn) and handling, the wider - the better the ski behaves in deep snow.
6. Toe length(distance from the front attachment to the toe of the ski):
Longer toe length - better behavior in deep snow, ski floats better in virgin soil. Shorter toe length - easier and faster corner entry.
Types of modern skis:
- Racing - sports - for participation in competitions, for special slalom, giant slalom, mogul, etc.
- Freeride - skis for skiing outside prepared slopes, mainly in virgin soil (deep fluffy snow), for example, Salomon AK Rocket.
- Allmountan - universal all-relief (the most universal, for all slopes and snow conditions, for example, Salomon X-Scream.
- Frikarv - for expert skiing, mainly on prepared slopes, although in this group we can distinguish the so-called universal carving skis, which are less sensitive to uneven terrain - for example, Salomon Crossmax.
- Sports car - for amateur riding at low speeds, mainly on prepared slopes.
- Freestyle of the new school - trick riding and jumping both in a snow park and on ordinary slopes with various degrees of preparation, for example, Salomon Teneighty.
- Supercarve, or Fan-carve, or radical carving - "carving" skiing, as a rule, without sticks, with a strong blockage of the body on the slope. The extremely deep sidecut creates a strong centrifugal force when riding, for example the Salomon Axecleaver of the Streetracer series.
- Skibboards, or snowblades - special carving skis, usually less than 1 m long. They are produced with a lightweight binding without the possibility of automatic triggering in case of a fall, which is allowed by international safety standards, provided that the skis are shorter than 1 meter
In the geometry of a snowboard, there are several standard characteristics that many riders know, or guess about their meaning. First of all, this is: the length and width of the snowboard, everyone is familiar with these concepts, but what does it mean: the effective edge length, the radius of the side cutout, the bend of the board? In order to deal with this, this article exists. Let's start from the very beginning.
Snowboard length.
Everything seems simple - this is the distance from the toe of the snowboard to the heel, but ... depending on the riding style, weight, level of the snowboarder, the selection of the board is made a little differently (we will tell you more about the selection of the board in the next section, for now only technical data). Shorter boards are easier to handle when jumping and turning (important for freestyle), while long boards are good for freeriding and backcutting. Usually the manufacturer indicates in those. passport of the board for how long the projectile is designed for this or that rider's weight.
Snowboard width.
Usually, the manufacturer refers to the waist width in the description (English Wais - the narrowest point of the board). The wider the snowboard, the better it will hold the "powder" and not get buried, the narrower, the more speed it will develop on the prepared track. Also, some companies have special "extended models" for large paws, the letter "W" is simply added to the size indication, which means Wide.
But on a par with this there are: the width of the heel (Tail) and the width of the toe (Nose), sometimes their indicators may differ from each other, most often it happens on freeride boards, where the toe is wider for better sliding on virgin soil. Freestyle boards are more symmetrical.
Effective edge length.
The next important characteristic is the edge length that touches the slope when riding and cornering, usually 20-35 centimeters shorter (depending on the size) than the snowboard itself. It is extremely rarely indicated by the manufacturers on the board itself, but having rummaged on the Internet, you can find it at the office. sites. The longer the effective edge length, the more stability and control the board has. And the smaller, the sharper and shorter you can perform turns (arcs), such boards are better suited for "powder".
Sidecut Radius
Another important characteristic of a snowboard is the radius of an imaginary circle, part of which just passes through the edge of the snowboard (everyone remembered geometry lessons at school))). Planks with a small cut radius are more maneuverable, i.e. allow you to make sharper cut turns, ideal for freestyle. Boards with a large radius allow you to make wide, smooth turns, are more stable at high speeds, and are more suitable for freeriding.
Previously, the boards had one side cut, i.e. the same radius along the entire length, but now manufacturers make boards with several radii, for example:
Progressive double-radius cutout (two equal radii at the heel and toe);
Progressive multi-radius cutout (two equal radii at the toe and heel, another in the middle).
This is due to the fact that when passing a track or performing a particular trick, the rider constantly transfers weight along the board, to the middle, to the nose or to the heel. Therefore, in the right moment the desired bend begins to work, which allows you to more clearly enter the turn or more accurately land the board in a trick.
Now a few words about the shape of the board. Didn't know that boards come in different shapes?))
Directional is when your board has a nose longer than the heel and is generally softer. On these it is good to ride on "powder", they will not bury themselves in the snow and will provide a reliable "ascent". Also more stable at high speeds.
Directional Twin is an absolutely symmetrical board, but the tail is stiffer than the nose. Suitable for those who like to ride both in their own and in "not their" stance, especially for those who like "half-pipe". In general, a universal board, due to the shift of the bindings forward or backward on the board, you can ride it on both the "powder" and along the prepared track.
Twin-Tip is a completely symmetrical board. The toe and heel are of the same rigidity, shape, width. Ideal for the park and halfpipe, because it is in these types of riding that the rider most often rides in both racks. This form of the board appeared much later, in the early 90s, in the era of the development of parks, tricks on rails and other technical elements of freestyle.
Well ... and we have mastered this section)) and now go directly to the selection of a snowboard.
