Currently, the industry produces traps of the KP type of all sizes that are necessary for catching fur animals: from KP-110 (frame size 110 mm) to KP-320 (320 mm).
The most common of them are KP-120 (for catching sable, marten, mink, ermine, muskrat and other small animals) and KP-250 (for catching beavers, otters, lynx, badgers, raccoons, etc.).
There is also KP-140, -160, -180. These are intermediate sizes that are acquired by hunters, who believe that the animals are frightened off by the narrow lumen of small traps, which is not devoid of common sense.
Our hunting and fishing shops of the pressing type mainly come from our own factories: one of them is located in Yekaterinburg (SUAS), the other in Kirov. Although in large cities you can also find American (Bridger Magnum 110, 150, 330), well, or Chinese - where can we go without them.
In terms of price-quality ratio, the leaders are the first two manufacturers, and the Kirov ones are considered a little better, so we will review these traps on them.
Types and characteristics
KP-120
The line of Kirov traps begins with him, this is the smallest samolov.
Length with arcs - 380mm
Frame - 150x140mm, d = 6mm
Springs - l = 135mm, d = 5mm
Weight - 500g
KP-140
Length with arcs - 390mm
Frame - 160x155mm, d = 6mm
Springs - l = 135mm, d = 5mm
Weight - 530g
KPN-140 is a kind of a common passing trap equipped with independent frames (N). This innovation allows the animal to be triggered and held in almost any conditions, even when foreign objects hit one of the grippers.
No data available on parameters.
KP-160
Length with arcs - 400mm
Frame - 180x180mm, d = 6mm
Springs - l = 135mm, d = 5mm
Weight - 600g
KP-180
The photo shows a samolov produced by SUAS. For those. no data available.
KP-250
Length with arcs - 730mm
Frame - 280x280mm, d = 8mm
Springs - l = 250mm, d = 8mm
Weight - 1850g
KP-320
Length with arcs - 750mm
Frame - 360x350mm, d = 8mm
Springs - l = 230mm, d = 8mm
Weight - 2250g
In addition to the above standard sizes, there are several varieties according to the type of alert (depending on the manufacturer). The main difference is the structure of the alarming mechanism.
There are 3 main types of CP trap alert:
- "Kirov" alert of circular action, when the trap is triggered not only by moving back and forth, but also by moving to the side;
- a double-acting watchdog of the SUAS plant with a stamped gatehouse;
- the usual "konyberovskaya" double-acting alert.
Installation features
There are three most used options:
1) In a natural or artificial shelter (hole, box, hut, under a broom, etc.).
2) In places of frequent passage or swimming of animals (empty ice, canals, artificial fences).
3) On a pole (for tree climbing animals).
Advantages & disadvantages
Pros:
- traps are "humane", that is, they are allowed for trapping fur-bearing animals on the territory of the Russian Federation;
- usually the animal dies quickly, and skin defects associated with prey are not formed (except for setting on the ground);
- penetrations into such traps are much less than in track traps (not in all cases).
Minuses:
- very laborious installation (both in time and due to the use of additional materials and choice of location);
- if basic safety measures are not followed, serious injury to the hunter is possible;
- frequent freezing of the animal to the arches (you have to carry spare traps with you, and carry the frozen one with the trophy home to thaw);
- some animals are afraid of passing traps;
- when setting on the ground, it is useless to put an eyeglass to raise the animal, because the animal almost does not fight in the trap (which means the likelihood of damage by mice increases);
- a large mass of one trap (KP-120 weighs 500g, and track No. 0 only - 200g);
- high price.
As you can see, a whole list of shortcomings has accumulated, therefore, what will outweigh in the matter of choosing a type for catching a particular type of animal is still unknown. Although, I must admit that many of this very choice will be absent, because many animals are now allowed to be hunted only with humane traps.
A trap is a metal device that is used to catch animals, pests (rats, gophers, mice, etc.) and even predators. The animal touches this device, the springs are instantly compressed, and the animal will not be able to get out of the trap on its own. The claws of the trap are so strongly compressed that the skin is sometimes cut open, tendons, joints are damaged, bones break, and if the animal tries to free itself, the limb can simply come off. An animal that has fallen into a trap dies after a few days from severe injuries and unbearable pain. This is a terrible torture for any animal.
How to make a humane trap yourself?
Traps are of different types and are distinguished by design and size. If the trap grabs the animal by the paw, then this trap is called restraining (in other words - holding). If a trap grabs an animal by the body, head or neck, then it is called pressing. Some traps sharply hit the animal on the head, such traps are killing (humane).
The size of the trap is determined quite simply: it is indicated by a number (numbers are from 00 to 7). To determine what size and design the trap should be, you need to know which animal will be hunted with it in the future.
Trapping traps have been known for over a hundred years. Traps No. 00.01 are small in size, they are needed to catch all sorts of small animals - gophers, rats, muskrats, and there are traps No. 2,3, which are slightly larger in size, they are used to catch a marmot, hare, fox, and are also made and large traps # 5: wolverine, lynx, wolf fall into this trap. There are also huge traps - they are for bears.
Humane traps belong to the pressure group. They instantly kill the animal without torturing it. The manufacture of humane traps has been carried out not only in Russia, but also abroad for many years.
The "burrow" traps can be classified as crushing traps; they differ in that they have no base and no arcs. Hunters catch gophers and moles with their help. They weigh a little, and it is not difficult to install them either (at the entrance to the burrow or in the underground passage), since they have a very simple design. The traps of the Makarovs, Agafonov, KP 250, etc. are very popular. With their help, you can catch a small animal: squirrel, gopher, ermine, mink, ferret, beaver, sable, otter and other animals. The trap can be placed anywhere: in trees, in the ground, in water bodies and other places.
Our store delivers humane crushing traps by cash on delivery. Delivery is carried out by a transport company. We provide a huge selection of different hunting traps, tackle and accessories for the real hunter.
The state gave the go-ahead for the manufacture of humane traps, but forbade the use of foot traps, which made the animals die in terrible agony.
How to use humane traps?
Traps called KPN140, KP250, KP120 have been tested for many years not only in Russia, but also abroad. Such traps were used to catch badgers, beavers, and ermine. The making of humane traps is now in the first place, because the new generation traps have completely replaced the traditional ones. Traps are very dangerous devices. Handle them with care. The trap has safety hooks that lock the springs when they are in a compressed position. There is also a safety bracket that fixes the trap arcs. If the trap has a fuse, then it does not pose a danger.
It is necessary to remove the trap from the fuses only when the device is installed in the required place, well secured and, possibly, camouflaged by the hunter. Be careful when setting the trap and read the instructions before using.
The production of the humane trap KPN140 is carried out for catching marten, sable, ferret and other animals that can pass through the frame. When the trap is triggered, the frames are divided into 2 flexible grippers. They act on common springs. Actually, it is from this that the blow turns out to be stronger, at once in several places - the neck and stomach. Even if you camouflaged the trap very well with branches or grass, all this will not interfere with catching the animal, even if the branches accidentally fall into the capture.
The slightest displacement in any direction makes the alert work, and the animal will fall into the frame in any case.
With the help of the KP250 model you can catch beavers, otters, badgers, lynxes, arctic foxes and other animals. How do I install it? It is necessary to turn the springs so that they are outside the frames of the device. Now squeeze the spring with your hook or hands. Hook the ring (upper) of the spring, press on the loop with your foot, pressing it firmly to the ground. And pull on the top arcs of the trap until the springs are compressed. It remains only to fix the spring with a fuse.
Now the same thing, only with a different spring. Place the guard and gate in the middle of the frames, and squeeze them. You need to hook the watchdog to the frame in the slot of the watchdog and you're done!
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Steel traps of Soviet times have sunk into oblivion, today they are recognized as "inhumane". Getting into them, the beast suffers greatly, but if you think so, then slaughterhouses, poultry farms and similar enterprises are inhumane. And in the rifle trade, wounded animals also suffer serious suffering from inaccurate hits and do not always get there.
Meanwhile, unauthorized fishing in commercial hunting is the predominant method of catching furs, because in terms of labor costs it is more efficient than hunting and is currently in the lead. It is much easier and cheaper to equip paths, and then check them from time to time, than to grind the same squares with skis with dogs and a gun at the ready.
A long time ago, our intelligent ancestors understood this and invented many self-traps: grazing, slip-throughs, cherkans, dies, kulemki, etc. etc.
In many areas of our vast land, this is successfully used today. But I didn’t have to hear anything about “humane” traps, although in the same “inhuman” Soviet times there was a similar trap, and they called it either “sharkh” or “squirrel”. The trap was light, weighed 300-400 grams and one fisherman could easily carry away about fifty. The lance of the trap was hammered into a tree, and the bow of the trap, after triggering, hit the animal on the head, almost immediately killing it. Personally, I caught a sable, a column, an ermine with this trap. There was little protein then, but it also got in, and I don't remember a case of damage by mice.
I believe that "humane" traps do not exist, unless you use poisons, but they have long been banned.
In the meantime, our fishermen had to remember about the traps of the ancestors. They are by far the most humane. The mouth kills a polar fox, a fox or a wolf very quickly, you do not need to buy it, the material is at hand, only labor is needed to install it. Kulemka and dies very quickly kill a squirrel, sable, Siberian weasel, ermine, a trap is also almost unnecessary here. It is more difficult with amphibionts: beaver, muskrat, otter, mink. By the way, muskrat is very successfully caught near burrows with two-pass tops in autumn, but for winter fishing in forage huts, again, an inhuman plate trap No. 0 or No. 1 is needed.
The beaver has multiplied today - it is under-industrialized, although it causes troubles to the people with its dams and flooding. Killing a beaver with a gun is a tedious task (a beaver usually goes to work in the evening and works at night) and unproductive - getting in the head with a gun in the dark is very difficult. The wounded animals can hide in the hole and the hunter will not get it, moreover, after the loss of a family member, beavers can hide in the hole for up to a week and become extremely cautious.
It goes without saying that the rifle method of catching a beaver is from the field of hunting adventures. For fishing, an inhuman trap is needed, once caught in which the animal will immediately go into the water, where, with certain torment, it will drown. Shooting otters and minks in general from the realm of fantasy, here again inhuman traps are needed.
The most inhumane traps of large numbers for the extraction of foxes, wolves, wolves, raccoon dogs. These traps are set, as a rule, near the bait or under the trail. When triggered, they grab the beast by the paw, sometimes break a bone, before dying, the beast suffers for days.
It should be added that trap hunting for dogs requires high qualifications from the hunter and is not available to everyone. These animals are smart, have excellent instinct, eyesight and hearing. In the recent history of Russia, the wolf, for example, was considered the number one enemy of animal husbandry, was persecuted, and the attitude towards the wolf at times changed by 180 degrees. In the Soviet past, a bear was occasionally caught with grandfather's forged traps, but, thank God, this brutal method of extraction is already in the past. The white hare fishery was carried out exclusively with wire loops (of course, inhuman ones), installed on the trails, which is still being done today.
As a result of our reasoning, I would like to say the following: the work of a fisherman is difficult and dangerous, he cannot think about the humanity of the method of extraction, and he has no time. The law of the trade: to get furs, meat, game, fish, wild plants as much as possible and with the least expenditure of labor and time. Therefore, in the old days it was customary to show humanism first of all towards the fisherman, which, of course, has not lost its significance today. Well, if such times have come that one must think about game animals (in the sense of the humanity of their prey), of course, hunting science should have its say here.
In the 21st century, self-traps should become not only humane, but also efficient (productive), easy to maintain and cheap. In this case, the work of the hunter-fisherman will be greatly facilitated, both hunters and ecologists will be satisfied.
The recommendations consider the design of traps intended for trapping the most important species of fur-bearing animals, describes the methods of safe handling of traps, provides the main methods of setting them, ensuring high efficiency.
New traps
Passage traps, unlike traditional foot-grabbing ones, capture the animal not by the paw, but by the head, neck or torso and kill it in a matter of seconds. This allows you to dramatically reduce the number of breaks and avoid unnecessary torment of the caught animal. In Russian hunting practice, these are the first traps that meet modern international requirements.
Traps of this type have long proven their high efficiency in trapping fur-bearing animals in Canada, the USA, and many other countries, where they have been used for several decades.
Traps KPN 140, KP 250 and KP120 have passed many years of field trials in the fur trade in different regions of Russia and abroad. They caught various animals, from ermine to badger and beaver. The results obtained make it possible to assert with confidence that the new traps are not only as effective as traditional traps, but also, in many cases, surpass them. Practice has shown that the hunter's doubts about whether the animal will go through the frame disappear after the first successful catch. Despite the fact that the frames of the trap inflict a strong blow on the body of the animal, during the entire period of testing, not a single case of damage to the skin was noted that would reduce the cost of prey.
Note that walk-through traps have tighter springs than traditional track traps designed for the same animals. To avoid injury, read the instructions carefully and remember to use the safety devices that come with each trap. The springs are locked in the compressed position with safety hooks, the arcs of the cocked trap are fixed with a safety clip. The trap with the fuses installed is absolutely safe.
It is supposed to remove the fuses after the trap is in place, secured, and, if necessary, camouflaged. If, according to the installation conditions, this is not possible, then the fuses should be removed at the last moment, immediately before setting the trap. The design of the traps allows you to carry out all the necessary manipulations without introducing the hunter's hands into the danger zone. Remember that your safety depends primarily on care and experience.
CPN 140
Passage trap, with independent frames, passage size 140mm
The trap is intended for catching sable, marten, mink, polecat, muskrat and any other animals with a body size that allows it to pass through the frame.
The CPN 140 trap incorporates the latest advances in trap design. During triggering, the trap frames form two flexibly interconnected grips, acting from common springs, and strike a strong blow on the body of the prey in any two places at the same time, for example, on the neck and abdomen. Grass, branches or twigs that accidentally fall into one of the grabs cannot prevent the trap from triggering.
Circular trap alert, triggered by shifting in any direction to the right, left, forward or backward. Prey will certainly be caught when passing through the frame in any direction.
Alarming
1. Rotate both springs so they are outside the trap frames. Squeeze the spring with your hands or with a hook, pliers and secure with a safety hook. Do the same with the other spring.
2. Slide the compressed and hooked springs to the axis of rotation of the trap.
3. Spread the frames to the sides and bring the trap into the cocked position, overcoming the force of the springs.
4. While holding the frames with one hand, insert the safety clip as shown in the illustrations.
5. Hook the ends of the gate in the opposite frame.
6. Secure the trap in place, then carefully remove both safety hooks and move them to the sides, to the coils of the springs.
7. Finally, remove the safety clip from the frames. The trap is now ready to go.
Cocking the springs with a hook. Instead of a hook, you can use a string or chain with a foot loop and a hook at the end. Pull the trap out of the frame with your hands.
Spring charging pliers
The correct position of the safety clip and parts of the guard on the cocked trap
Attention! When turning the watchful trap, make sure that the safety hooks do not fall off the springs. A trap with released springs is dangerous!
KP 250
Trap through passage, passage size 250mm
The trap is intended for catching beavers, badgers, otters, lynxes, raccoon dogs, arctic foxes.
Alarming
1. Rotate both springs so they are outside the trap frames. Squeeze the spring with your hands or a hook.
2. Hook the upper spring ring, step on the loop, pressing it to the ground, and pull the trap by the upper pair of arcs until the spring compresses. Secure the spring with the safety hook. do the same with the other spring.
3. Place the alert in the middle of the frame. Then squeeze the trap frames together. Hook the tab of the guard into the opposite frame as shown in the illustration.
KP 120
Trap through passage, passage size 120mm
Has modifications with one spring (KP 120/1) and two springs (KP 120/2). KP 120 can be equipped with two types of guards: double-sided and circular action (see figure). The trap is intended for catching sable, marten, mink, polecat, muskrat and other small animals.
Alarming
Cocked and alerted similarly to the CPN 140 trap.
The correct position of the circular action guard on the cocked trap frame (top view)
Methods for setting walk-through traps
General rules
If you consider it necessary, then with any method of installation, the trap can be masked using snow, dry grass, tree branches.
For this, dry tubular blades of grass are preliminarily put on the "whiskers" of the forked guard.
When setting the trap on the ground, snow, ice, place a few sticks under the lower arcs to avoid freezing.
After installation, be sure to check whether there are any safety hooks on the springs, and a bracket on the arcs.
Installations without bait
Installation on the trail
Secure the trap in an upright position with pegs passed through the coils of the springs. If you are afraid that the trap may freeze to the ground, then lift it up with pegs or place the bottom pair of arcs on two thin sticks located along the path.
Installation on an underwater burrow
Block the exit from the underwater hole (lodge) with a trap, carefully securing it with stakes. Small pegs passed through the frame will prevent the animal from bypassing the trap and will additionally secure it. You can put a couple of traps in the gutter, one after the other. In this way, you can catch a couple of animals at once.
Installation on swim
Set the trap on a muskrat or beaver swim, fixing it on stakes so that about 1/3 of the frame is visible above the water.
Method of setting the trap KPN 140 under the trail
The CPN 140 trap can be used for installation under the trail. Dig a hole, put two or three sticks in there and lower a watchful trap on them. Cover the tendrils of the guard with a piece of bark or place a plate cut from tin over them. Mask the installation carefully. When triggered, the trap will jump and capture a medium-sized animal (sable, marten, ferret) by the body.
Walkway installation
When setting the trap in the passage under the bank, make sure that there are no branches or tree roots in the trap triggering zone. The passage on the sides of the trap must be blocked. Secure the trap in an upright position with pegs passed through the springs.
Fence on the shore
If you are setting the trap on a wide foreshore, carefully block the free space with sticks or branches. Place a trap in the left passage.
Channel settings
The channels dug by the muskrat or beaver are a very convenient place for setting KP-type traps. If the depth of the channels allows, then it is better to immerse the trap in water. A stake on the surface of the water, laid across the channel or passed through the spring rings, forces the animal to dive and swim through the trap.
Drowning installation
Drive three nails into the stake obliquely, then attach a trap to them, as shown in the figure, and tie with a thin wire to the spring. A stake with a trap can be positioned both vertically and horizontally - on a swim or a channel. After triggering, the trap, along with the caught animal, will hang on the wire under water.
Installation under ice in shallow water
In winter, a small river or canal can be blocked with stakes and branches, leaving a passage for the installation of a trap. Make sure that the top of the frames is deep enough not to freeze into the ice.
Bait installations
It is necessary to install a passing trap with a bait in such a way that the animal, eating the bait, is in the affected area - the triggering zone of the frames. Keep this in mind when placing bait.
Installation in a cave with bait
Dig a cave with a depth of 30-40 cm in the steep bank or in the wall of the ravine and put the bait there. Place the trap at the exit and secure it with pegs in an upright position, 15-20 cm from the bait.
Correct installation methods
An animal, even a small one, when approaching the bait, will be in the target area of the trap.
A deeper cave helps to hide prey from predators and precipitation. In this case, the trap is placed in the depths of the cave, 15-20 cm from the bait.
It is better to attach the bait to the back wall of the cave with a sharp peg (the pegs holding the trap in an upright position are not shown in the figure).
Incorrect installation
The trap is too far from the bait. A small animal (for example, an ermine or a ferret) can pass between the antennae of the nesting or from the side and, eating the bait, distract the trap with its tail.
Box installation
Make a box out of planks or wire mesh according to the pattern shown in the figure. The bait is placed closer to the back wall. The trap must be placed at the entrance so that there is room in the slots for the springs to move when triggered. The trap box can be placed on the ground, in the snow, or secured to a pole.
Attention! if you are installing a pole on two trees, in the form of the letter "H" (as shown in the picture), do not fix it rigidly with two nails - trees swaying from the wind will easily break the thickest poles and nails. Therefore, nail one end of the pole to a tree, and put the other on a hammered nail or log - runners.
Installation in a snowy mound
Fill a snow hill 50-80 cm high. In its thickness, using a ski or a spatula, cut a cave up to half a meter deep, put a bait there, fix it and set a trap. Secure the trap with pegs passed through the coils of the springs.
When constructing a mound, it is necessary to take into account that the snow will settle in one or two days and the trap may be crushed by the vault of the cave.
Installation in the courtyard
Stick a row of small pegs into the ground so that they form a courtyard, block the entrance with a trap, and put bait inside. Cover the top with branches, grass, sprinkle with snow.
Installing walk-through traps on a pole
Attach the pole to the tree at an angle of 30-40 degrees.
In order to install the KP 120 trap, drive four nails into the pole, as shown in the figure. The nail heads should be 1-1.5 centimeters long. Place a trap on them, cover it with several branches on the sides and on top of the frames.
A trap set in this way falls when triggered, so be sure to tie it to the pole with a thin wire, cable or chain for one of the springs. The length of the leash should be such that the caught animal hangs, not reaching the ground or the surface of the snow.
To set the KPN 140 trap, support the pole with a slingshot, on which you fix the trap. Instead of a slingshot, you can put suitable branches on the sides of the pole, stick a pair of crossed and tied stakes into the snow or the ground, or nail two sticks with nails.
You do not need to nail the pole with the trap to the tree trunk, but simply prop it up and press it with a suitable knot. This will make it easy to adjust the angle and height of the pole as the snow falls.
If you put the bait on the poles, then the distance from the trap to the bait should be 15-20cm. You should not fix the bait closer to the trap, as this increases the likelihood of the birds deflecting the trap.
It is necessary to hang the bait so that the animal can reach it only from the end of the pole, and for this it was forced to go through the trap. In this case, the trap is placed 15-20 cm from the end of the pole. The bait is placed in front of and slightly above the end of the pole, so that the animal can see it through the wary trap.
Correct installation
1. The trap is far enough from the tree so that the animal does not jump over it from the trunk.
2. The trap is lined with branches, so the animal has only one way to the bait - through the trap.
3. The triggered trap will hang on a leash along with the prey, and will not fall to the ground or into the snow.
The roof over the installation, made of poles and dense branches, will prevent falling asleep with snow and at the same time will serve as an effective visual bait. The distance from the bait to the roof should be about 50cm.
Incorrect installation
1. The trap is too close to the tree trunk.
2. No twigs blocking the passage over the trap. The animal can climb over the trap or go around it from the side.
3. The trap is not tied to the pole and, after triggering, can fall to the ground with the prey.
Special "beaver trap installations KP 250
Walking traps in the fishing of semi-aquatic animals are 3-5 times more effective than foot traps. Ice fishing is especially simplified. New traps give the hunter the opportunity to explore settlements that are unacceptable in open water, for example, in swampy and littered upper reaches of forest rivers.
On a permanent fishing site, it is necessary to plan prey: you need to take care not to exterminate the animals. It will not be difficult for an experienced hunter to block all permanent paths along which beavers move within the settlement. First of all, these are approaches to a hut or a section of the coast where there are dwelling burrows. In autumn, before freezing, there are clearly visible outcrops to the coast and channels, which beavers actively use to prepare food.
When fishing in winter, you should pay attention to the areas of the reservoir between residential burrows or a hut and underwater food supplies. The arrangement of fences with traps in such places guarantees the capture of the animal. A small river can be blocked with stakes, leaving a small passage for setting a trap. Fresh branches and stakes with unpeeled bark, from which a fence is built, or even a stake on which a trap is fixed, also attract beavers and are often eaten by them under the ice. Therefore, the fences need to be periodically inspected, and to fix the trap, you need to use a coniferous or dry tree. If you have not found underwater food supplies, then set up traps with bait near a habitable burrow or hut. Young branches of deciduous trees growing along the banks of the reservoir of aspen, alder, willow can serve as bait.
On rivers or lakes with steep banks, where beavers settle in burrows, trap fences can be installed on either side of the burrowed section of the shore, perpendicular to the shore. The length of the enclosure of 1.5-2 meters is usually enough, especially in winter, when animals prefer to swim along the coast, adhering to barren ice.
On the lakes, when beaver huts are found, surrounded on all sides by deep water, if you cannot find underwater exits, then the hunter, both before freeze-up and in winter, can be helped out by 1-3 radial fences with traps installed right next to the hut.
Installed traps must have a strong and secure leash, since especially large animals can destroy the installation and leave with the trap. At the same time, the cost of the loss is many times higher than the cost of a meter piece of soft "knitting" steel wire with a diameter of 2.4 mm, a chain or a cable.
Setting traps in a fence
A trap in a fence under the ice can be hung by springs on wires or chains. Leave small twigs on the stakes for more attractiveness. A stick passed through the rings of springs blocks the passage above the trap for the beast. The distance from the trap to the bottom surface of the ice should be such that the springs or frames do not freeze.
In deep places, it is better to install two traps at once, fixed on a stake one above the other. A stake passed through the coils of springs, take softwood or dry. To prevent the traps from sliding down, secure them to one of the springs with wire or nails. The second stake (in the picture on the right side), made of fresh deciduous wood, is loosely inserted between the frames, prevents the traps from turning and serves as an additional bait. The setup method is equally suitable for both winter fishing and open water fishing.
Installation at the exit
In the place of emerging from the water, make a fence of branches, put a trap in the passage. About 1/4 of the frame should be visible above the water.
Floating rig with bait
Make an A frame out of dry logs, and attach a pair of fresh, fresh deciduous decoy tree stakes in the middle. Install the trap as shown in the figure, fasten the springs with nails. Tie the installation to the shore. Such an installation will make it possible to catch beavers during sudden changes in water level.
Installation at a dam crossing
On both sides of the crossing over the beaver dam, make fences in which to place traps. The frames of the traps should be raised above the water in the same way as when setting up on an outing.
In preparing the publication, various materials were used, published in specialized domestic and foreign literature. Recommendations are intended for professionals hunting grounds and hunters engaged in fur trade.
S.I. Min'kov, V.A. Tetera.
Russian Academy of Agricultural Sciences
State scientific institution
All-Russian Research Institute
hunting and fur farming
them. prof. B.M. Zhitkova
VNIIOZ
